Ti elite 9m

[gbody805]

Just a few qusetions.

I just picked up a elite 9.
I didn't really look at it good when it showed up
My fault.

Now that I've looked alittle better this is what I found.

First, it shows 5.6 ohms.
The connections are very rusted at the terminal screws. I tried touching the tabs but still had 5.7/5.8 ohms.
Next I went to the tinsels but didn't get a good reading at all.
The tinsels feel almost brittle with rust.
There is a crack completely thru one of the mounting holes.

The cracked frame may or may not be a problem when mounted but the ohms worry me.
Would I be able to replace the tinsels and hardware to bring it back into spec ohms wise?

What would you do? Refund or fix it?
What might it cost to rebuild?

Thanks.

[dontlookatme]

who did u buy it from? and how much did u buy it from?
seeing how hard these are to come by i would say repair. but def get whatever it will cost to replace/fix the problem back.

make sure to remove the stress off the mounting hole and get it back to place.

the ohms is really weird. 5.8 on a multimeter would make it a 8ohm speaker but last time i remember it was a 4 ohm speaker do both of them read the same or is it just one that reads this? maybe the dcr is set to 5.8 but the average is 4 ohm? ill take a meter to my 9 and tell u what it reads

[longboard]

forget repairing it with a crack like that i would suspect the basket would be twisted

[gbody805]

who did u buy it from? and how much did u buy it from?
seeing how hard these are to come by i would say repair. but def get whatever it will cost to replace/fix the problem back.

make sure to remove the stress off the mounting hole and get it back to place.

I'll give you three chances to guess, and the first don't count.

It was your responses and post for the 5" that made me check it over real well.
I'm waiting to hear from him now

[ttocs]

the speaeker terminals are totally normal in fact I was cleaing the contacts on mine last night. Just used some wd40 and a wire brush to get the rust off. Now the rust on the tinsel leads is different story.

I will throw a meter on mine here in a min to see what I get. It is not uncommon for the measured impedence to be 1-2 ohms off of its rated impedence.

Now you can't fix the crack though........

[ttocs]

I metered mine at 6.3 ohms

[dontlookatme]

mine came up with 6.1 and 6.2

[joerg]

The TI9´s are 6Óhm drivers!

[ttocs]

right, so even 5.6 is acceptable on the meter.

[gbody805]

I thought they were 3.2 Ohms. According to the manual

My other four read between 3.7 / 3.9 ohms.
All are near mint with no rust on the terminals.

So now your saying my other four are reading out of range of sorts?

[joerg]

I had about 10 TI9´s going thru my hands and all the paperwork i ever got, said that they are 6Ohm drivers. Morel is known to make mid drivers at 6 Ohms

[gbody805]

I had about 10 TI9´s going thru my hands and all the paperwork i ever got, said that they are 6Ohm drivers. Morel is known to make mid drivers at 6 Ohms

I do respect what you have as far as knowledge for PG gear.
But I have to differ with you on this.
I have four that read as of right now with the heat and humidity 3.6/3.5 ohms.
Which would be in-line with what is written in the posted manual here on the phorum. 3.2 ohms
All of them have near mint connections compared to the one with the high ohms reading.

[ttocs]

the 4 is made to go with another tweeter with a cross over. I have not found the rating on the 9 yet but also not looked.

[ttocs]

manual says Re of 3.2 ohm in the manual registery

[gbody805]

the 4 is made to go with another tweeter with a cross over. I have not found the rating on the 9 yet but also not looked.

I meant I have four other Ti 9m speakers.
All four of the other 9ms have close to 3.5 ohm readings.
Sorry if I wasn't clear on that.

[The Golden One]

im thinking the rust on the terminals and bolts may cause enough resistance to give a higher reading on the meter. it would be worth a try to get as much of the rust off and try to read it again. iv'e had some speakers that had the same terminals that rusted so bad that i got no sound at all until i scraped the rust off and then they played just fine.

[Ahsmo]

4 ohms is nominal impedance over a range of frequencies given by this formula:

Z=JwL of an inductor + the real component of resistance

where w=2 x pie x f

If you just hook up the leads and measure the resistance you are only measuring the real resistance of the inductor.


Rust is just a protective oxide layer

[ttocs]

mine were pretty rusty, looked like the lock washer they had in there almost competely went out.

They are fairly easy to take apart and I thought about completely replacing the terminals but they are in ok condition, the washers are definitly being taken out.

[The Golden One]

rust is very resistant to electron flow just try to ground an amp on a rusty place on a car and pound away at the bass then measure the heat distortion and spl. then go back and clean the rust off to bare metal then test the heat distortion and spl there will be a difference in one if not all three of the factors i mentioned.

[MW3]

You can likely fix the basket with a good two part epoxy. Just go easy on it when you install it.

Clean up the terminals then measure DCR again.

Is there any rubbing, buzzing or motor noises when playing?

Ti9's were pretty durable, but maybe this one had a rough life...

[HoseHead]

I have four that read as of right now with the heat and humidity 3.6/3.5 ohms.

They're fucked. Send them to me and I'll confirm you readings .....

HH

[longboard]

i have 6 here that all read around that!