down graded slightly on this one but still have all the gear i used in my first attempt.
unfortunatly my vert is not practical so its up for sale now as i need a diesle for all the milage i do 530d on the cards or a touring 530d (major boot install)got all the gear now to do my planned install 2 ti12elites powered by mmats d3000.1 (on its way)1 5 9 front powered by 2 zx475ti,
tideq,pld1,matrix.alpine deck with ipod and kac420i.
back to the vert
stock locations for the 5 elites tweets on dash at the mo
ipod holder
lay out
top cover
gone against the grain hear but did not have a pg 10" to hand
finally the finished boot but without the back plate trimmeed
you are right they are very deep
had alot of trouble with the lay out
this was the 2nd layout i tried the first was the 2 amps running straight up the middle but left no room for the eq
Wow, these 2 installs you did are great! How does the PLD work with the deq? I was told not to run both of them in mine becasue the deq would clip badly. Do you notice any problems?
what i do during the setup is ,turn head until with clear recording up 3/4 of the way then adjust the pld1 until the green leds on the deq start to flash orange slightly (clipping signal) then back it off a touch
that means when i use my ipod i have room after the 3/4 for the lack of volume on the ipod.
after the eq it goes into a matrix line driver (all balanced inputs) using a rca splitter as my 3rd channel on the matrix is broke(3rd channel links to all 3 outputs ) so i use the first 2 inputs and then run the outputs to each amplifier this gives me total control of the input of the amps after the eq so i do not have to worry about clipping the equalised signal.hope this helps
pics of progress today doing a bit of tweaking
pic 1 before equing
pic2 after equing
its nice to be important , but its more important to be nice
got you now
yup sounding good
still get the odd spike that comes through but the caps inline sort that out
on the search for the other eproms still.
someone i know with a store has contacts who know the guy who designed them,so fingers crossed i might get hold of them and get the last bit of the tideq in place
by the way thanks alot for all your help
its nice to be important , but its more important to be nice
you wouldnt happen to be looking for the version 3.X (I think that is it) eproms? I am looking for them also as mine has the 2.XXX. If you can get them, let me know.
hi
i have the version 3 and im looking for the next version up which there are a few in the field somewhere
i need them to run the remote i have for mine
i might have a spare set of the version 3 kicking about ill have a look and get back to you
its nice to be important , but its more important to be nice
things HAVE CHANGED over the years..
we used to adjust the equalizer with.. our ears!
back then, an analyzer was just not affordable.
later when the computer minimized it all, even handheld analyzers were made, so since then, I couldn't resist of buying one.[ I posted a topic about the thing.].
NICE INSTALL!! I admire your eye for detail.
have seen too much install's build in a hurry.
only have doubts about the quality of music from a I-pod... ?
but that's probably why I'm a oldtimer..[NO, I have NOT played RECORDS
in my car, that was BEFORE my time].
keep up the good work!
nico.
i to have a issue with the ipod quality but saves me having more cds than enough in the car.i tend to do 1000 miles a week need lots of music.
thx for the possitive comments.
its nice to be important , but its more important to be nice
Can someone explain what the before and after chars are?
Im assuming some piece of software is hooked up to a microphone and you have to play cd on your head unit that produces unique freq's through the speakers and the mic picks them up and tells you how far they are away from what they should be?
Is that correct?
Nak CD-400
Knukonceptz Krystal's
White EQ230, TLD22
Xenon 200.4
RSD 600.1, LPL44
2x PG 4 Gauge Amp Kits
10" RSDc Sub (It's an Octane R at the minute)
6.5" RSD Components (Front)
4" RSD Coax (Rear Fill)
So the idea is to get a correct sounding flat baseline for your unique car interior environment BEFORE you start bumping up the high freqs and generally talor the sound to your tastes ?
Nak CD-400
Knukonceptz Krystal's
White EQ230, TLD22
Xenon 200.4
RSD 600.1, LPL44
2x PG 4 Gauge Amp Kits
10" RSDc Sub (It's an Octane R at the minute)
6.5" RSD Components (Front)
4" RSD Coax (Rear Fill)
There's a number of different schools of thought on this and I'll give you mine. Other's may chime in and say that I'm wrong but if you have a read around you'll see that different people use different methods.
The way that the above system has been set post eq is for a flat response. This means that all of the freq's (probably more correct to say 1/2 or 1/3 octaves) in the audio spectrum are produced at the same amplitude given the same input level from the source.
IMO the general result of this style of eqing is a fairly flat and lifeless reproduction of music. I'd like to see a little more bottom end in this curve from say 200Hz and below. In addition, I'd probably rolloff the top end by a few dB from anywhere between 3.5K and 5K depending on the vehicle and driver placement.
I feel that it's much more important to get a nice transition between frequency bands so that there is no large jumps or dips in the freq response. Think fluid curve rather than one with peaks & troughs.
Buy yourself a PC RTA setup and at bare minimum a 15 band eq (215x) and start playing. At the end of the day the best eq'ing will be transparent and make the music seem natural and not bloated in any areas of the audio spectrum. Believe your EARS and the RTA. Not just the RTA.
Make sure that all phasing issues are sorted prior to starting to eq or you'll just be trying to cover up one problem with another.[/u]
M25 x 2, M50, M44, M100, Original MS 275, MS2125 & MS2250 (with shroud), XMax 15, White EQ215X, EQ232, PLD1,BLT, MX3, AX-406A, Basscubes, + Soundstream, Earthquake, RF, Boston, OZ Audio & KEF