System Design-hookup help: ti600.2 & zx475ti

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akwizeguy
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Joined: Mon Jun 08, 2009 9:00 am

System Design-hookup help: ti600.2 & zx475ti

Post by akwizeguy »

Hey there guys, I need some help with wiring multiple amps together. Ive been out of the game and was content with my ti600.2 and 12w7 setup since 2002. However recently, that damn audio bug bit me again, now im itching to upgrade. Im kind of confused how to hookup the zx475ti to my current setup:
-Alpine IVA-C800
-Alpine DVA-5205
-MB Quarts Discuss Line Components (Not sure of model #)
-JL Audio 12W7
-Phoenix Gold Ti 600.2
-PG zx475ti
-(soon some PG RSD6.5 mids)
-PG Bass Cube

-Now My IVA has separate outputs for the Front/Rear/Sub. So I figured I would just use these and connect them to their respective amps. But then I was looking at the manuals and noticed the config switches. To hookup multiple amps.
-would I get better sound quality using the PG amps crossovers? Or should I just hook it up as stated above?

-Also I would be putting in the bass cube during my amp install too, is it overkill to add in that LPL44 control knob as well?

I drew a little diagram while I was at work, Is this the correct way to hook it all up? Let me know what you guys think, thanks

Image
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stipud
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Post by stipud »

That looks fine to me.

You could run the 600.2 off the 475's aux outputs as well, if you wanted to. You would lose the deck subwoofer level control, but that's about it. You wouldn't gain much, besides one less RCA to run however... maybe a little easier because your sub's lowpass crossover would exactly match the highpass crossover frequency of your RSD 6.5" mids. Of course if you want to adjust the sub's crossover frequency independently on the 600.2 instead that is also an option... then you can over/underlap the crossover frequencies to taste.

I personally had both an LPL and a Basscube for awhile, and I never used the basscube, aside from the subsonic filter. With the LPL you can set your gains higher than normal, and with great respect and maturity, this allows you to remotely control the amp gains. The effect of this is you make your entire sub amp louder or quieter instead of boosting a select frequency range with the basscube. This means you get less of that "one note wonder" sound. The downside is that by leaving the LPL cranked you can cause your amp to clip, which can damage it and your sub. So obviously you need to keep it turned down on loud bass, and only turn it up on quieter songs. Once the volume stops increasing, turn it back to slightly before the volume tapered off, and you are good to go.

I think a basscube is awesome on a ported setup however when tuned to the port frequency, if you just want to go stupidly loud at the tuned frequency of the enclosure. For sealed though I would not bother with one.
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Stryker
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Post by Stryker »

with the lpl you can control overall volume, then with the basscube you can boost the one note as well just like stipud said. I personally like having both to use and most times do not use the basscube, but i like to have it around just in case. :twisted: sometimes you just can't have enough bump :lol:. I've never had a sealed box and prolly never will so i cannot comment on using the basscube with one. my vented box totally wakes up when the basscube is on.
screw car audio, I'd rather go fast....errr, wait a minute.
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rscecil007
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Post by rscecil007 »

Wow, dejavu. I'm just getting back into the car audio world after being out since 2001, when I had my old Boston Pro/PG ZXTi system installed and was quite content.

I've got a very similar set up being assembled right now as well, I've got a Ti600.2 and a Ti500.4, and a pair of Hybrid Audio Legata L1/L6 components for the fronts in my office. Will have a JL 13TW5 eventually, probably the best sub I can fit in my particular application. I'll just run an LPL as well, no Bass Cube.

Still stuck on the headset myself though, although leaning towards an Alpine 9887 at the moment. Seems hard to be for the $350 or whatever Crutchfield has them for.

One thing Stipud helped me sort out is how to run my components active off my 500.4, which I think is essentially the same amp as your 475. So that might be an option for you with your Quarts, if you don't get those RSD mids, or until you do.

BTW, your layout looks alot better than the one I sketched out in a meeting here at work awhile ago. :lol:
akwizeguy
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Post by akwizeguy »

Nice thanks for the replies, it really helps alot!

two more questions for you guys

1. Is there a need for an LPL for the zx475ti (for the mids and highs)?

2. Also, Im currently residing in New Orleans, and the roads here are the worst Ive encountered ever (Im from Houston). Seems like the city isnt pumping much money into road maintenance.

So hitting all these deformed bumps and potholes, would it affect the amps at all? I was thinking of going to Home Depot or something and gettin some sort of thin cushion material to put underneath the amps when mounted onto my enclosure for my sub. Do these amps need that kind of shock protection? Or would it be detrimental to the amps in terms of their longevity of use (such as heat issues)?

Thanks for all your posts and help, it really helps alot!
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knightrider358
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Post by knightrider358 »

jus a quick tip I wouldnt mount any amps to a sub box unless u box is mounted to the trunk. reason being is cause sub boxes slide around with turn and bumps so if it moves to much the your wires can detach from the amp and possible cause an electrical fire :x :shock: u can mount the amps to a side truck wall or the back seats but never to a box that is not mounted
Current 1 of 2 current installs

HU-Alpine IVA-D310
DSP-PXA-H701
Comps-JL ZR 650
Sub-3 JL 10w6v1ae's sealed
Highs amp-MS275
Mids amp-MS2125
Subs amp-MS2250TA
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rscecil007
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Post by rscecil007 »

BTW, here's what Stipud told me in regards to set up on running active with 500.4. You'd only need a long 2 ch RCA to the 475, and a short one from the 475 to the 600 doing it this method. But I'll let Stipud chip in if anything is any different on your 475ti.

Front
X10 - press in
FREQ - your tweeter's crossover frequency... so ~2500-3000
CONFIG - HP

Rear
Input Select - 3
CONFIG - HP/LP
FREQ - your midrange's crossover frequency... so ~60-100

This will send everything from 2500Hz down to the rear channels, which are configured to play 60-2500. Then note the AUX OUTPUT will be the low pass from the rear channels, so 60Hz and under.

So if you want, you can run the AUX out straight to your sub amp and bypass its crossover completely. Also if you have an LPL, you can hook it up to the Ti500.4 and control the sub volume from that amp as well!
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stipud
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Post by stipud »

1) no, it only works on channels configured to lowpass, so it is only useful for the sub. Theoretically you could use one to control your midbass volume separately, but there is little point in that.

2) vibration will damage anything. However, these amps were designed for people who mount them to sub boxes, so they should take a bit. I would worry more about your car if I was you.
akwizeguy
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Post by akwizeguy »

Yeah I would most certainly prefer to mount them elsewhere, but I need the functions of the trunk space. Im finishing up my masters in august, and need the space to move all my ish back to houston.

This is priceless information thank you guys so much!

Where do you guys buy your interconnects and wirings from? Ive been looking for an electronics shop in New Orleans with not much help. Ive been trying to stay away from those amp kits, the markup seems exponential.

But I buy alot of hdmi/computer cables etc. from monoprice.com. I was wondering what you guys thought of these RCAs, I know RCA cables is a very subjective topic, but i figured yalls opinion would help as they usually have.
http://www.monoprice.com/products/produ ... 1&format=2
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rscecil007
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Post by rscecil007 »

I've been looking and reading up on what to do for interconnects and power cable as well, what's good, what's not, etc.

I know when I used to be a home theater junkie Monoprice stuff was pretty well regarded.

There are a few amp kits I've read are good and worth it, all found easily on ebay. One's a Phoenix Gold AKIT1, comes with 18ft of 1/0 power cable and 5 ft of 1/0 ground cable and a super beefy battery terminal.

Another is the Kicker PKD1 kit. Comes with 20ft of 1/0 power cable, 3 feet of 1/0 ground cable, 5 feet each 4 gauge power and ground cable, and two distrubution blocks, fuse for the battery, etc.

If you want to do the piecemeal route, the KnuKonceptz.com (corny name I know) krystal cable RCA's and Kollusus Fleks power/ground cable seems highly regarded around here.

Few things for you to look into at any rate.
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Stryker
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Post by Stryker »

you will save money going to knukonceptz. the wire there is top notch.
i do not get all gushy about wire but was impressed with the size and flexability for sure.
screw car audio, I'd rather go fast....errr, wait a minute.
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