first time installer needing help

gtrotter · Post by **gtrotter** » Mon Jul 06, 2009 11:04 am

Setup:

Sony HU: 4 Volt outs
RSD 500.4 Amp pushing 6.5 RSDC Comps
RSD 600.1 Amp pushing 1 Memphis 12" Dual VC 2 Ohms
1/0 Power wire split into 2 4 gauge
2 different 4 gauge grounds in trunk

I've installed all of my equipment in my car and now its a matter of making it sound good, getting rid of feedback, figuring out how to set the amps, and making the rear seats/amps/wires look neat and pretty.

1. When I rev the engine I get crazy feedback whine.
(I'm guessing this a grounding issue) I've got 4 gauge grounds coming from a huge bolt in the back seat going to the amps. However, I haven't added the 1/0 gauge from the negative battery terminal to the chasis yet.
(hopefully this will solve all my feedback problems)

I've got all the RCA's on the right side of the car. The power cable, remote turn on, left channel speaker wire and LPL44 are the left. I know its not good to have Power and RCA's on the same side but what about speaker wire and power cable?

2. I'm not sure how to set the speaker wires on my RSD 500.4 to bridge the power to my two component speakers up front. Currently this is how I have it set, Left Front channel, +_ _ - on the top row. Right Front channel +_ _ - on bottom row. I only have the front RCA's plugged in. Is this correct?

3. I'm in the process of making an LPL44. I have a phone cord and a 50k-Lin knob. I will solder it, test it and hope it works. I'll post pics of I'm unsuccessful.

4. My battery died this morning after I listened to my stereo for about 15 minutes last night with the engine off. Is this normal? I used to be able to let the music play for a long time and have no problem. I know that I have a lot more current coming to the amps now.

5. I have a knuconceptz distribution block but have no idea how to keep the wires in place. (am going to call them-- I'm such a noob)

(ahhh...looked online and realized I wasn't folding the wires back over the cable before inserting and tightening)

All the install work and prep and time has taken about 30+hours. (I like to take my time and do things right, plus half the time I'm figuring things out as I go) My hands are all cut up and I have a new respect for installers.

Post by **stipud** » Mon Jul 06, 2009 11:20 am

1. http://phoenixphorum.com/trouble-shooti ... vt178.html

2. You need to buy two y-splitters, then run the left RCA (white) SPLIT to both front channel inputs, and the right RCA (red) split to both rear channel inputs.

Now with your left speaker wires, connect them to the LEFT + and RIGHT - on the front channel. Do the same with your right speaker on the rear channel.

The way you have your speakers wired in your picture is how you would wire standard stereo, not bridged. Ditto to your RCAs.

4. Sounds like your battery is not that great. I get nearly 1hr on my Optima Bluetop deep cycle before it gets below 11v. You have a bit more amp than I do, but you should get at least half an hour.

Further comments... the tear in the sub may make a farting noise. You can repair it with a flexible epoxy, rubber cement, butyl adhesive, etc. Never ever use a drill near your expensive stereo components. If you must, make a cardboard template and use that. Ideally you should make markings through the holes, take the woofer out, drill the holes, then screw it in by hand. You can still mess up by hand if you're not careful, but it's usually less catastrophic than with a power tool.

As for your grounds to the seatbelt bolt, you might need to clear some paint underneath that bolt to ensure a good connection to the body.

gtrotter · Post by **gtrotter** » Mon Jul 06, 2009 11:48 am

Your response time is amazing.

Thank you so much for your knowledge. It is VERY MUCH APPRECIATED!

This forum rocks!

Post by **Rold Gold** » Mon Jul 06, 2009 1:06 pm

Sounds right to me..............

Ya might think about grounding everything you can in the same place also i.e. deck/amps/eq's........ Though I've never had to overcome any major engine whine problems myself, I've heard that it can make a difference...... You might also try running the rca's down the center of the car just to make sure yer avoiding any possible sources of interference with the car's interior harness..........

gtrotter · Post by **gtrotter** » Mon Jul 06, 2009 1:15 pm

I went to radio shack (rip off) and got a y adapter. I think I got 2 of the wrong ones though. I got 2 female ends and 1 male end. Is that right?

Post by **stipud** » Mon Jul 06, 2009 1:18 pm

The amount of current going through the speaker wires is probably not going to affect the RCAs at all. I would not hesitate running them together. Much more nastiness on the power wires!

If it's a major noise issue my first guess would be a broken shield on the RCAs. Shielded twisted pair RCAs are a must in car audio!

ProperID · Post by **ProperID** » Mon Jul 06, 2009 1:19 pm

gtrotter wrote:I went to radio shack (rip off) and got a y adapter. I think I got 2 of the wrong ones though. I got 2 female ends and 1 male end. Is that right?

You need the other kind (2 male ends, 1 female end) in order to extend your 1 male plug into 2 male plugs (or actually 2 male plugs into 4 male plugs)

gtrotter · Post by **gtrotter** » Mon Jul 06, 2009 1:24 pm

Better get to RS before they close them.

Post by **stipud** » Mon Jul 06, 2009 1:35 pm

gtrotter wrote:Better get to RS before they close them.

I wouldn't recommend Radio Shack RCAs to my worst enemy. That's probably most of your noise issue right there

You'll want something like these:
http://www.knukonceptz.com/productMaste ... erconnects

gtrotter · Post by **gtrotter** » Mon Jul 06, 2009 1:51 pm

The RCAs are "premium rcas" from monoprice. I would have gone with knuconceptz if I'd known how good they were. The adapter is just from radio shack.

Post by **ttocs** » Mon Jul 06, 2009 2:48 pm

that is called porting a speaker. Not porting a box for a speaker but porting a speaker. We all do it sooner or later, and then go buy a screw stabalizer

joyride · Post by **joyride** » Mon Jul 06, 2009 3:20 pm

The good Ol' Phillips Distortion...Been there before. If I am ever feeling lazy and using a drill, I ALWAYS put my hand over the driver, right next to the screw. I would much rather stab my hand when it slips off the screw.

Post by **smgreen20** » Tue Jul 07, 2009 4:15 am

When (for those of us that do) you build your box, keep the circular piece that you cut out for the sub. In the center of it drill out a 3/8" hole.

When screwing down the sub place that hole (on the circular piece) over the mount hole for the sub. Now screw your sub down. If you slip off you'll hit the wood, not the sub or even your hand.

Predrill those mounting holes first though.

cyberpunky · Post by **cyberpunky** » Thu Jul 09, 2009 1:11 am

Never use seat bolts to ground amps as they are often isolated from chassis and nearly always provide poor ground. I would also add a decent ground from neg batt to chassis. The whole keep RCAs away from power is not an issue with decent gear these days. I have done hundreds of intalls with RCAs, power and speaker wire taped together with no issues, but all the gear has been good quality including RCAs. I actually use UTP mostly, as sheilding in a DC environment is of no benefit. The keep them away from power leads is hangover from the bad old days when we had poorly isolated gear and low voltage signals and ppl didnt understand DC environment like we do today

Anyway bottom line is alt whine is nearly always ground related, and so will be either your amp grounds (which seems to be obvious from your choice of seat bolt) but could also be HU ground as well. The first thing to do when trying to fix a problem is find cause. Reground amps to a better spot, and see if that sorts it out.
peace
Cyberpunky