RSd 500.4 to bridge or not to bridge?
RSd 500.4 to bridge or not to bridge?
As the title states. I'm looking for a lil more headroom. I have 2 sets of 6.5 RSd comp's. one set running off rear channels in the doors with no tweets, and one full set(tweets, mid's) in kik pod's down low. should I bridge and run it 2 channel at 2 ohm mono for more headroom? I guess it would be easy to just do it, but was wondering if there were any thoughts on doing this or if someone has given it a go? I also have independant EQing capability's for each set via seperate 215's.
thx
thx
screw car audio, I'd rather go fast....errr, wait a minute.
item
you will never be happy just kidding
if you have the time try it if you don't like it put it back.
Im going to have the same problem with my focal set up but thats why i bought the ax406 so Im not using xover points on the amp active Im told sounds better
but what the hell do i know
how many watts can rsd's handle?
if you have the time try it if you don't like it put it back.

Im going to have the same problem with my focal set up but thats why i bought the ax406 so Im not using xover points on the amp active Im told sounds better

but what the hell do i know
how many watts can rsd's handle?
most of my gear is gone :liar:
2020 honda accord sport
2020 honda accord sport
- dBincognito
- Randy Bo-Bandy
- Posts: 3301
- Joined: Fri Feb 06, 2009 11:32 pm
no Multiplier on the RSd'sdBincognito wrote:Why not run all the mids at 2 ohms stereo and the tweeters separate ?
Skip the passives, run the tweets with the 10x multiplier

screw car audio, I'd rather go fast....errr, wait a minute.
yes this is how I have it. Yes Stipud it is much improved since you last heard it. I decided to scrap the enclosures I had and I fashioned a new kik and have the 6.5's running free air. They sound very good IMO was not too sure how it would work but i like it. There really is no cancellation and the mid thinks it's in a larger enclosure. It does have some nice beefy soundBfowler wrote:so are you using the midbass with the passive crossover (on the rear channel) with just the tweet left out, or did you leave out the passive crossover too

screw car audio, I'd rather go fast....errr, wait a minute.
- dedlyjedly
- Silent but Dedly
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That amp is designed for a minimum load of 2 ohms per channel. If you're going to bridge it to two channels that translates to 4 ohm mono on two channels, or as I was taught to refer to it, 4 ohm bridged-stereo.
What you're proposing is 2 ohm bridged-stereo and would be twice the workload for the amp. As Brian mentioned, it may be able to handle the load and dissipate the heat effectively, but you need to know that it is NOT a recommended way to run the amp. The grey area, so to speak, in this matter is that one might be able to get by with this difficult load when using the system responsibly and utilizing it only for additional headroom. For anyone that is wondering about doing this I would just like to remind them that more headroom does not equal more volume!
What you're proposing is 2 ohm bridged-stereo and would be twice the workload for the amp. As Brian mentioned, it may be able to handle the load and dissipate the heat effectively, but you need to know that it is NOT a recommended way to run the amp. The grey area, so to speak, in this matter is that one might be able to get by with this difficult load when using the system responsibly and utilizing it only for additional headroom. For anyone that is wondering about doing this I would just like to remind them that more headroom does not equal more volume!
well I should just leave well enough alone. I should figure out how to utilize the 3 way active crossover I have in the basement. Maybe run the mids off 2 chanels at 2 ohm's and the tweets at 4ohm on the front channels. Although I do like the fact I can fade to just the front kiks off the amp and 5.25 comps off deck power in the back, which takes away the doors and subs. I have it this way for when kids are in the car.dedlyjedly wrote:That amp is designed for a minimum load of 2 ohms per channel. If you're going to bridge it to two channels that translates to 4 ohm mono on two channels, or as I was taught to refer to it, 4 ohm bridged-stereo.
What you're proposing is 2 ohm bridged-stereo and would be twice the workload for the amp. As Brian mentioned, it may be able to handle the load and dissipate the heat effectively, but you need to know that it is NOT a recommended way to run the amp. The grey area, so to speak, in this matter is that one might be able to get by with this difficult load when using the system responsibly and utilizing it only for additional headroom. For anyone that is wondering about doing this I would just like to remind them that more headroom does not equal more volume!
screw car audio, I'd rather go fast....errr, wait a minute.
Run the rears off of the HU then and run the tweets (chs 1 and 2) and mids (chs 3 and 4) active on the amp. Still have the flexibility to to fade and adjust the xover freqs actively.
"ZPA's will have the same sound essentially as you get from the MS, they just feature a bigger shinier set of balls."
Install:
http://phoenixphorum.com/viewtopic.php?f=10&t=16998
Install:
http://phoenixphorum.com/viewtopic.php?f=10&t=16998
- Bfowler
- Briaans..... BRIAAAAANNNNNNS
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^but hes already running a 3 peice front stage.
so he is already running a 6.5/tweet off the fronts with passive xo
and a dedicated mid (also using the rsd crossover) off the rear channels.
ino, you should get rid of the passive on the rear channels
so he is already running a 6.5/tweet off the fronts with passive xo
and a dedicated mid (also using the rsd crossover) off the rear channels.
ino, you should get rid of the passive on the rear channels
my ex-girlfriend said "its car audio or me"
i've had tougher choices at a soda machine...
i've had tougher choices at a soda machine...
Ok the rears are running off the HU. I'm unsure how to lose the passive's on the mid's in the doors. Can I do this using the amps controls? HP,BP, or LP is all it has. Just to let you guys know:Bfowler wrote:^but hes already running a 3 peice front stage.
so he is already running a 6.5/tweet off the fronts with passive xo
and a dedicated mid (also using the rsd crossover) off the rear channels.
ino, you should get rid of the passive on the rear channels
fade HU to front I get rears off HU and kiks w/tweets and 6.5's. these kiks have there own dedicated EQ215iX
fade to rear on HU I get door 6.5's and subs off the second 215ix
as A note which was stated in a post, I use passive crossover's for all speakers. X-over on both EQ's is approx. 65Hz and i have the 500.4 in Hp on all 4 channels. with the xover's at about the same of 65Hz on the amp. Is there another way i could go about this? I'm sure there is, but I'm unsure how to get it all set up. any suggestions will be welcome.
screw car audio, I'd rather go fast....errr, wait a minute.
Yeah better with no passive on the 6.5... You should be running that speaker at about 70-250Hz range actively. Either use your headunit or your active crossover to get the rear channels to run bandpass.
Effectively you want to aim for:
Front channel : 250Hz-20kHz to tweeter and mid via passive
Rear channel : 70Hz-250Hz to 6.5 mids on their own
Sub : 20-70Hz
Tune the front channel gains by ear if you need to get a bit more volume. The amps have lots of headroom that you can exploit (should easily make over 100w at 4 ohms anyways). Just listen for distortion and back it off a bit from there. Then just set the midbass gains to match the front stage levels... without the passive you shouldn't have to go any higher than the front channel.
Effectively you want to aim for:
Front channel : 250Hz-20kHz to tweeter and mid via passive
Rear channel : 70Hz-250Hz to 6.5 mids on their own
Sub : 20-70Hz
Tune the front channel gains by ear if you need to get a bit more volume. The amps have lots of headroom that you can exploit (should easily make over 100w at 4 ohms anyways). Just listen for distortion and back it off a bit from there. Then just set the midbass gains to match the front stage levels... without the passive you shouldn't have to go any higher than the front channel.
Yes but his mid (the one by itself) is in the rear door negating a FRONT END 3-way.Bfowler wrote:^but hes already running a 3 peice front stage.
so he is already running a 6.5/tweet off the fronts with passive xo
and a dedicated mid (also using the rsd crossover) off the rear channels.
ino, you should get rid of the passive on the rear channels
He stated he has a 3-way active xover, not that he's running 3-way.


W/how "I" understand it (w/what you have), I would run the single mids off of the HU's rear ch amp, On the RSD amp, run the tweets highpass (HP) off of chs 1 and 2 x'ed over at 3000 Hz, bandpss (BP) chs 3 and 4 to the mids x'ed over from 63ish Hz- HP, 3000 Hz- LP.
My tone is just for clarification, not to piss anyone off.

Is how I understand it correct stryker?
"ZPA's will have the same sound essentially as you get from the MS, they just feature a bigger shinier set of balls."
Install:
http://phoenixphorum.com/viewtopic.php?f=10&t=16998
Install:
http://phoenixphorum.com/viewtopic.php?f=10&t=16998
As I look closer at the amp manual, BP stands for By Pass, not the industry norm of Band Pass. Does the HU have a built in xover?
What I said ^ partially applies now.
It comes down to a typical PG error on print. They have on the amp BP, but they say to select BY on the amp. There's no BY on the amp. So to translate, BY = BP.
What I said ^ partially applies now.
It comes down to a typical PG error on print. They have on the amp BP, but they say to select BY on the amp. There's no BY on the amp. So to translate, BY = BP.
"ZPA's will have the same sound essentially as you get from the MS, they just feature a bigger shinier set of balls."
Install:
http://phoenixphorum.com/viewtopic.php?f=10&t=16998
Install:
http://phoenixphorum.com/viewtopic.php?f=10&t=16998
No I have midbass in the Front doors(ch 3,4), and mids/tweets(ch1,2) in the front kiks, all RSd 6.5's. I have an old set of 5.25 comps I'm running in the rear locations of the headunit. My HU does not have a built in Xover. It's an older eclipse. The RSd amps's only have HP to 400HZsmgreen20 wrote:Yes but his mid (the one by itself) is in the rear door negating a FRONT END 3-way.Bfowler wrote:^but hes already running a 3 peice front stage.
so he is already running a 6.5/tweet off the fronts with passive xo
and a dedicated mid (also using the rsd crossover) off the rear channels.
ino, you should get rid of the passive on the rear channels
He stated he has a 3-way active xover, not that he's running 3-way.3-way sounds like fun doesn't it?
![]()
W/how "I" understand it (w/what you have), I would run the single mids off of the HU's rear ch amp, On the RSD amp, run the tweets highpass (HP) off of chs 1 and 2 x'ed over at 3000 Hz, bandpss (BP) chs 3 and 4 to the mids x'ed over from 63ish Hz- HP, 3000 Hz- LP.
My tone is just for clarification, not to piss anyone off.![]()
Is how I understand it correct stryker?

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screw car audio, I'd rather go fast....errr, wait a minute.
item
corey is there a x10 on the eq? maybe use that.
Im running into the same problem with my focal amps so I bought a ax406a and joerg is sending me some Rnets from his focal install
that way I don't use the xover on the amps
you could alway hide a black matching ax or add it were one of the eq215 are and move the bass cube beside it???
Im running into the same problem with my focal amps so I bought a ax406a and joerg is sending me some Rnets from his focal install
that way I don't use the xover on the amps
you could alway hide a black matching ax or add it were one of the eq215 are and move the bass cube beside it???
most of my gear is gone :liar:
2020 honda accord sport
2020 honda accord sport
Ah, well...
Time to give one of those EQs to me
and get yourself an RSDXXX.2 for the mid bass and utilize the 2-way xover and just run a full signal through the remaining EQ.
Now that I think about it, I don't even need an EQ. I've got to much EQ to tune as it is, so I guess you could give that EQ to MY wife
as she'll need one. 
Time to give one of those EQs to me

Now that I think about it, I don't even need an EQ. I've got to much EQ to tune as it is, so I guess you could give that EQ to MY wife


"ZPA's will have the same sound essentially as you get from the MS, they just feature a bigger shinier set of balls."
Install:
http://phoenixphorum.com/viewtopic.php?f=10&t=16998
Install:
http://phoenixphorum.com/viewtopic.php?f=10&t=16998
As I look closer at the pic, it there a clear piece of "film" on the inside of the amp housing, to the back of the perforated cover? Looks like there's a reflection off of the holes in the amps were I would think I would see all of the internals.
"ZPA's will have the same sound essentially as you get from the MS, they just feature a bigger shinier set of balls."
Install:
http://phoenixphorum.com/viewtopic.php?f=10&t=16998
Install:
http://phoenixphorum.com/viewtopic.php?f=10&t=16998
White picket fence is what your seeing i think. I may have to see if bogart has his black xover still the one i have is white.smgreen20 wrote:As I look closer at the pic, it there a clear piece of "film" on the inside of the amp housing, to the back of the perforated cover? Looks like there's a reflection off of the holes in the amps were I would think I would see all of the internals.
screw car audio, I'd rather go fast....errr, wait a minute.
- dedlyjedly
- Silent but Dedly
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