Any tips on building/carpeting amp rack?

rscecil007 · Post by **rscecil007** » Wed Sep 09, 2009 7:13 am

I'm going to try to start working on my amp/accessory rack this weekend, which will be the first time I've done anything like this.

I've got the normal power tools I'll probably need, table saw, compound miter saw (not sure if this is needed), jigsaw, etc.

Any suggestions on the type of wood to use? Guessing around 1/2" thick?

I found some carpet at partsexpress that seems decent and reasonably priced: http://www.parts-express.com/wizards/se ... N=26380828

Anyone have any other suggestions or tips? I'm sure I'll do parts or the whole thing several times before I get it where I want it. Thanks in advance!

Post by **Rold Gold** » Wed Sep 09, 2009 8:49 am

I would use 1/4" plywood as partical board tends to warp if any moister hits it. Cut all the peices out in cardboard first and make nessasary adjustments before cutting the wood which is much more expensive. ALWAYS make cuts alittle thicker so you can trim for a snug fit.

Be prepared to do it all over again. As you go, you'll find better ways to do things and make it nicer. But you'll be half done by that time.

bogart · Post by **bogart** » Wed Sep 09, 2009 9:42 am

I typically make a template out of 1/4 inch waffer board as it is cheap and it'll enable me to rip the final cuts right out of the entire 1/2 panel with a router no fucking around. Worth the 10 bucks for the 4*8 sheet and you won't ever have to do it for any of the peices you use again as you'll have the 1/4 inch template

I like the big plush moldable carpet as it wears well and is super easy to work with beveled corners and flushing stuff up...just keep in mind when you use it that it is thick so the cuts will have to be over by a good 1/4 inch to flush out well around the equipment if you go that route

after the last few installs I did I am a huge fan a leather and if you look around you can generally find it locally fairly cheap....considering how much the moldable carpets are per linear yard....look around for cut or scrap peices...I did a ton of lambskin in daves truck this summer and I don't think all the leather was more then 150 for the entire install and that was with me fucking a few pieces up. You just got one shot to get it right as the glue holds it tight enough to never get all the felt back up....

Plan ahead.....as harold said...you don't want to get into it and change your mind....draw it up and see if that is what you really want to do before you start....will save time and money. If you want some help make the trip down for a day or two and you can utilize my shop and my assistance...

I've got an open door policy on my shop for you phorum members that are close enough to take advantage...

rscecil007 · Post by **rscecil007** » Thu Sep 10, 2009 4:57 am

Thanks for the tips everyone, keep them coming. Very helpful so far.

Bogart sending you a PM shortly...

Misfire · Post by **Misfire** » Thu Sep 10, 2009 8:35 am

And I am using that open door Saturday! Lets hope its not till 1:30 again! LOL, was a fun day though!

rscecil007 · Post by **rscecil007** » Thu Sep 10, 2009 8:37 am

Hmmm, one thing Bogart mentioned that I don't have is a router....

bogart · Post by **bogart** » Thu Sep 10, 2009 9:28 am

you can do 90% of mobile audio fabrication with a router and if you get a good circle jig for it you are set...I'll post some stuff on this....A few people have mentioned that I should do a tutorial on a few ways to approach this and I may make Misfires rack part one...I am not too sure yet.

let me get some pics of the stuff I do with a router for stuff like this today....just stuff that is floating around so you will get an idea of what I mean....

I good upholstery stapler is another thing you will wish you had if you go at it without one too.....let me look it all up and I will create a post with links for the jigs as well.....jasper jigs are the best that I've used and they are fairly cheap....

Post by **ttocs** » Thu Sep 10, 2009 9:42 am

Looks like they covered the wood.....

I would never get carpet that I have not seen in person, under natural light next to a piece of the interior to make sure it matches unless you are buying black carpet. If it is off by even a little, it will stick out like a sore thumb. I have made the mistake of buying carpet or vinyl with out first taking it outside to see how it looks. It sucks when you get it all done and the first thing you notice is the color is off.

2nd reason is for quality. You want a good quality unbacked carpet that will stretch as much as possible. Good carpet will have some stretch in two directions, but it is not uncommon to have some that will only stretch in one direction and it is important to know what you have so that you can plan on what stretching you need to do.

get some good glue and a box of sharp blades. As SOON as you see the blade is pulling the material rather then cutting it just pitch it and get another. Depending on the thickness of the material you may need a holder for the blade but I would normally just get the one sided type and use them by hand.

automotive trim shops are great places to get automotive carpets or if they do not sell it then find out where they are getting thiers from.

bogart · Post by **bogart** » Thu Sep 10, 2009 9:49 am

that is oh so true...carpet can be a bitch to match....backed carpet sucks ass...everything ttocs said....

I've tried ordering vinyls and carpets...but I've not once had luck with it. There should be a plethora of shops up there....and stay away from stereo shops. If they stock good thick unbacked moldable carpet they will rape you for it. We have a few automotive upholstery supply shops here and either there a leather shop is where I go. They will tend to have the most samples and if you want to see what mixed and mis matched carpet does for in install just look at my car....its about 4 colors

audiophyle_247 · Post by **audiophyle_247** » Thu Sep 10, 2009 1:11 pm

Pay no attention to ttocs post, following his advice will only take the fun out of it. lol

Dont know if its past this point or not, but the first thing I usually do is draw pics of what I have in mind for the amp rack.
Sketch it out as I want it to look, then sketch it out again but in better detail & more in a matter of building. (ie where the wiring will go, how it will reach the amp(s), etc...) I usually find I spend more time drawing up ideas than I ever do in the build, because once you have a solid idea in your head & a clear course of action the build itself goes rather quickly.

Post by **ttocs** » Thu Sep 10, 2009 2:06 pm

I try to take the fun out of everything when I have the chance.

rscecil007 · Post by **rscecil007** » Thu Sep 10, 2009 4:41 pm

This is all great info, super helpful.

With the carpet, I was just thinking black, my interior is two toned, light grey and black. So black carpet is just easy to match up and you won't really see alot of it the carpeted rack anyway unless I decide to show it.

I do have a basic idea of what I want to do, and a rough version built up with MDF.

I've got a newer style Tacoma Access cab, and I'm basically trying to decide wether or not to use just one side of the access portion for the rack, and leave one jump seat in for a 3rd person to ride in. Or just take both laughable excuses for rear seats out and use both sides as one big rack.

I'll try to get a few pics of the setup and what I built so far tomorrow for you guys and post them.

Misfire · Post by **Misfire** » Thu Sep 10, 2009 8:26 pm

When we build my false floor, I'll post pics of the build. And Bogarts bald head too!!!

Not mine of course!

rscecil007 · Post by **rscecil007** » Fri Sep 11, 2009 5:18 pm

Ok, here's a few pics.

With the bottom of the back seats folded forward, it forms a shelf area in the entire access area. I need to keep that storage shelf in the back for all my gear (mtn bike and snowboard), my dog, and just as a place to put stuff in general.

My thinking was to take at least one back seat out, and make full use of that space while still being able to use the "shelf."

The mock up rack needs to be trimmed down front to back, it's a bit of a tight fit now. Only reason it's that big was initially I was going to use that space to put a shallow mount sub, but I said eff that idea. Just going to put a normal box on top of the shelf now.

Just not sure whether to make the rack behind one seat, or both like I mentioned. I've got a lot of stuff install, it will be really tight if I only use one side.

Post by **Rold Gold** » Fri Sep 11, 2009 8:07 pm

How much space is behind the rear panel? I ask because you could go stealth and put amps behind it and get a center console sub. I think JL makes one for that truck. This option leaves you space to do whatever.

Think about this....... By the time you get a sub box, a couple amps and any other goodies back there, it becomes a dedicated space. IE no dogs, passengers, bikes ect back there. That is if you plan to keep it nice and functional. I'd freak the fuk out if a dog scratched my amps or punctured a woofer. Same if one of my buddies did it but they'd pay for it. Simple truth to car audio (in small spaces like this) is that you only get usable space or a nice system install. Not both. If you had an SUV or a big trunk it wouldn't matter too much because you have more options at that point.

just some food for thought...............

GX3 · Post by **GX3** » Fri Sep 11, 2009 8:35 pm

would you be willing to to a bed install?????? You would have to get a hard cover for the bed and cut the walls between the cab and truck bed then install a rubber gasket

rscecil007 · Post by **rscecil007** » Fri Sep 11, 2009 9:36 pm

GX3, def can't do a bed install. I use the bed too much to have a hard top on it.

Fuzzy,

There is no room behind that rear panel at all. On the double cabs there is plenty, but the access cabs none.

There is an amp going under each seat (plenty of room to breathe, no issues there), so the only thing that will go in the amp rack so to speak will be any goodies. So far that's a EQ232, DD10, and a couple of R-links. I'm pretty sure I can fit that all in that mock rack I built, or def make it fit if I used both sides. The only thing that will really be sitting on the shelf when all is said and done will be the speaker box itself, which I can live with that.

BTW, please don't tell my wife a SUV would have worked out better. She wanted me to get a new 4runner instead of my truck. I'd never hear the end of it!

Post by **Rold Gold** » Sat Sep 12, 2009 7:19 pm

What amps are ya running? Alpine small's by chance??

rscecil007 · Post by **rscecil007** » Sat Sep 12, 2009 7:33 pm

FuzzyHoNutz wrote:

What amps are ya running? Alpine small's by chance??

Um, noooo.

A Ti 500.4 and 600.2.

One will fit under the passenger seat all day long. The other's a bit tight under the driver seat, but will still work. I could camp out underneath those seats, seriously.

Post by **Rold Gold** » Sun Sep 13, 2009 12:06 am

nice... I like the Ti amps. Ya gonna run a Ti woofer aswell....???? I think I know where to get a new 12 for under $100 if yer interested.

Ya might even be able to grab a set of 5.25" components off ebay still.......Thad be a badass setup.

rscecil007 · Post by **rscecil007** » Sun Sep 13, 2009 9:04 am

I've got a set of Hybrid L6 mids/L1 tweets I'm going to run active off the 500.4, and IDQ12v3 that's going off the 600.2.

If I didn't already have that IDQ though, wow, that's a steal on the 12" Ti isn't it?

Tom was telling me the IDQ would be good for my truck though, since it's such a transparent sub. He said that's really beneficial when the subs in such a small space like a truck cab.

Post by **ttocs** » Sun Sep 13, 2009 3:12 pm

I always loved the IDQs.......