The AAMP PG

[gridracer]

I, for one, welcome our new AAMP overlords

Hahahaha that totally cracked me up kent brockman rules. Nice one

[NewOldStock]

I, for one, welcome our new AAMP overlords

Totally agree with you NOS. That's exactly the point I was trying to make before, but you elaborated on it much more eloquently.

I dont know about being more eloquent - but thanks.

[Pillow]

... Later this year I hope to start back on my 1979 Porsche 911 SC. I think it might be worthy of a new Ti setup.

I would really love to see a 3 channel as well. AB front and a D for the Sub.

Then again if the 911 goes under the knife, it will take a while to get back together. It needs a turbo system installed and wiring updates. It used to run a full Orion XTR system, which was okay but never awesome.

Also I need to outfit our 1948 Spartan Manor with a rockin system, but I do not have a clear vision on what to do at the moment. 12v versus 120v.

Sponsor me AAMP!!! LOL

[NewOldStock]

I dont know about you all - but I sincerely hope AAMP is a little more open with its specs than Rodin was.

I have been having a heck of a time finding the T/S param for the RSDC subs and the bridged power output for the RSD 4-channel amps (there were no bridged output numbers for my Roadster66 in the documentation that came with it.

I tried to go to the PG FTP site but it doesnt look like its allowing anonymous logins anymore... Thanks Rodin!

strike that ... must have been something wrong with me or my connection because now I dont seem to have a problem getting to the FTP site... Thanks Rodin! heheh

[fuzzysnuggleduck]

Tom has the old PG FTP (plus other stuff) mirrored here:

http://download.phoenixphorum.com/

[NewOldStock]

Tom has the old PG FTP (plus other stuff) mirrored here:

http://download.phoenixphorum.com/

Thanks!

Now all I want are the specs on power bridged @ 4ohm on the RSd 500.4 or Roadster66... AAMP seems to have left that info off the brochure for the new lines as well, which makes no sense to me at all. if your going to ditch all your 2-channel amps, you have to expect that folks are going to want to bridge AT LEAST the rear channels and run 3-way... or like me that want to bridge the x4 amp down into a x2 amp. SOMEONE has to know what kind of power they 4-channels put out bridged.

Rodin didnt even give directions on HOW to bridge the Roadster66 amps, other than to say you CAN bridge them. Do you bridge them front and rear? or left and right? Both? I seriously dislike the lack of information available... it makes it extremely difficult to install sometimes.

[Bfowler]

in the manual they rate it at 135 2ohms sterio. which is the same as 270 x 2 at 4ohms bridged. thats not CEA rated however. i think the 500.4 name implys 500 TOTAL watts. so 250 x 2

[NewOldStock]

in the manual they rate it at 135 2ohms sterio. which is the same as 270 x 2 at 4ohms bridged. thats not CEA rated however. i think the 500.4 name implys 500 TOTAL watts. so 250 x 2

Thats what I am hoping... I dont think my mids can take 250w each, but with that kind of headroom, I can run my gains very low and keep my noise floor down.

[dwnrodeo]

in the manual they rate it at 135 2ohms sterio. which is the same as 270 x 2 at 4ohms bridged. thats not CEA rated however. i think the 500.4 name implys 500 TOTAL watts. so 250 x 2

Thats what I am hoping... I dont think my mids can take 250w each, but with that kind of headroom, I can run my gains very low and keep my noise floor down.

That's exactly how I'm using my Roadster to push my RSD6.5's, with the gains set all the way down and an SLD44 next to the headunit. It does suck they don't publish those numbers though. I also wish they published the db output/frequency graphs with certain enclosures (like they used to on older subs) to see just how flat the speaker would play at what frequencies.

[bruther]

Tom has the old PG FTP (plus other stuff) mirrored here:

http://download.phoenixphorum.com/

Thanks!

Now all I want are the specs on power bridged @ 4ohm on the RSd 500.4 or Roadster66... AAMP seems to have left that info off the brochure for the new lines as well, which makes no sense to me at all. if your going to ditch all your 2-channel amps, you have to expect that folks are going to want to bridge AT LEAST the rear channels and run 3-way... or like me that want to bridge the x4 amp down into a x2 amp. SOMEONE has to know what kind of power they 4-channels put out bridged.

Rodin didnt even give directions on HOW to bridge the Roadster66 amps, other than to say you CAN bridge them. Do you bridge them front and rear? or left and right? Both? I seriously dislike the lack of information available... it makes it extremely difficult to install sometimes.

I agree...My Roadster had some serious lack of information. I love the amp but knowing more specs would be helpful in knowing what you can do with the amp.

[ttocs]

if you were to have the tech that finished it up and test it and printed up the report you would not have been able to read it. It would have been in chinees.

I think those specs that came with the american made amps are gone fellas. IT would be nice but with mass manf it would be hard to test them.

[dwnrodeo]

if you were to have the tech that finished it up and test it and printed up the report you would not have been able to read it. It would have been in chinees.

I think those specs that came with the american made amps are gone fellas. IT would be nice but with mass manf it would be hard to test them.

True. It was always nice to see birth sheets with amps.

[dsblk93gt]

I think they should go back the the basics, restro looking. It worked for the car manufacturers -- Mustang, Camaro, Challenger.

I did like my RSD components and coaxials though.

[bruther]

if you were to have the tech that finished it up and test it and printed up the report you would not have been able to read it. It would have been in chinees.

I think those specs that came with the american made amps are gone fellas. IT would be nice but with mass manf it would be hard to test them.

Ignorance.

[Bfowler]

more Chinese people speak English then Americans....

why would it be hard to test them? it was still engineered and designed in America


a more likely reason is cea2006 ratings don't call for bridged power ratings.

[NewOldStock]

if you were to have the tech that finished it up and test it and printed up the report you would not have been able to read it. It would have been in chinees.

I think those specs that came with the american made amps are gone fellas. IT would be nice but with mass manf it would be hard to test them.

Ok, we all get it that you dont like that the PG amps are made in China/Korea/somewhere other than the US - but for Christs sake, maybe its time to move on to a new reason not to like them... how about you dont like them because of something that f-ing matters like "they sound bad" or "they dont perform well" or "they are unstable" but in my opinion, you harping on the fact that they arent made in the US is just wasted energy. WE ALL KNOW THEY AREN'T MADE IN THE USA.

On top of that, every single point that you could and have made about them being made in China is false or easily refuted. How many years have companies that have excellent reputations been making things in china? How about the car you drive - hell, you trust your LIFE to that thing and a large portion of it was made in China or Taiwan... and whats sad is - it doesnt matter what brand it is.

Every amp that I have purchased thats been made in china - which is pretty much every amp I have purchased since the mid/late 90's - has had the technical information I am looking for... usually in English, French and Spanish. As a matter of fact, the list of real/actual american made amps is exceptionally short... just slightly longer than the list of actual american made cars/trucks... and they have ALL had the bridged output numbers and the "how to bridge" instructions.

Sorry for being a dick about this, but jesus... if you want to bitch about things you have no control over and exceedingly few people care about, thats your right, but you have to know all its doing is making you look like a toddler throwing a tantrum and every post you make pointing out the obvious and bitching about it just lowers everyones respect for you that much more.

[NewOldStock]

I think they should go back the the basics, restro looking. It worked for the car manufacturers -- Mustang, Camaro, Challenger.

I did like my RSD components and coaxials though.

I agree... I would love to see the MS-Tanks show back up. The problem is, that wouldnt sell today. The M-Class and MS-Class amps were a thing of beauty (and this applies more to the MS) to listen to, but not really to look at. The M amps (IMO) were awesome looking, but because of shape and whatnot were harder for the unskilled (like me) to get into a clean install.

The Roadster66 appealed to me because it looks like an updated old-school Route66. Now, I have NO doubt that the route66 would look better overall, but its going to be installed in a new-retro Camaro so the new-retro look of the amp fits the overall look/feel.

All I know is that I am SO glad that the Chrome Flames of AudioBahn didnt catch on more and turn the market into a fast-n-furious rice-fest. I would have had to switch to home audio.

[NewOldStock]

in the manual they rate it at 135 2ohms sterio. which is the same as 270 x 2 at 4ohms bridged. thats not CEA rated however. i think the 500.4 name implys 500 TOTAL watts. so 250 x 2

Thats what I am hoping... I dont think my mids can take 250w each, but with that kind of headroom, I can run my gains very low and keep my noise floor down.

That's exactly how I'm using my Roadster to push my RSD6.5's, with the gains set all the way down and an SLD44 next to the headunit. It does suck they don't publish those numbers though. I also wish they published the db output/frequency graphs with certain enclosures (like they used to on older subs) to see just how flat the speaker would play at what frequencies.

So how did you bridge your Roadster? I cant remember seeing any finished install pics, I will have to go look in the install forum...

Do you think your pushing 250 - 280 to your fronts bridged?

[fuzzysnuggleduck]

Didn't the Korean made Xenons come with birth sheets? I don't see why Chinese manufacturing would preclude the possibility of birthsheets.

I'm with Brian, I would guess the CEA2006 rating system don't call for bridge ratings.

[dwnrodeo]

Thats what I am hoping... I dont think my mids can take 250w each, but with that kind of headroom, I can run my gains very low and keep my noise floor down.

That's exactly how I'm using my Roadster to push my RSD6.5's, with the gains set all the way down and an SLD44 next to the headunit. It does suck they don't publish those numbers though. I also wish they published the db output/frequency graphs with certain enclosures (like they used to on older subs) to see just how flat the speaker would play at what frequencies.

So how did you bridge your Roadster? I cant remember seeing any finished install pics, I will have to go look in the install forum...

Do you think your pushing 250 - 280 to your fronts bridged?

I don't mean to thread-jack but: http://phoenixphorum.com/and-so-it-begi ... 91-25.html

I used one set of RCA's, left RCA output to left front RCA input on the Roadster, and right RCA output to right rear RCA input on the Roadster. I then bridged the front channels to the left side components, and the rear channels to the right side components. You can kind of see it in the install pictures. I think with the way I have my gains set, I'm not utilizing the full potential of the bridged channels. I haven't tested it to see what I'm actually outputting.

[stipud]

PG has always been piss poor at technical documentation. I hope AAMP has hired a proof reader for them

Seriously though I remember counting about 15 glaring errors the first time I skimmed through the Xenon sub manual when I proofread it for them. Pick any manual from the FTP and I am sure you will find several mistakes, even on the first page.

[NewOldStock]

I don't mean to thread-jack but: http://phoenixphorum.com/and-so-it-begi ... 91-25.html

I used one set of RCA's, left RCA output to left front RCA input on the Roadster, and right RCA output to right rear RCA input on the Roadster. I then bridged the front channels to the left side components, and the rear channels to the right side components. You can kind of see it in the install pictures. I think with the way I have my gains set, I'm not utilizing the full potential of the bridged channels. I haven't tested it to see what I'm actually outputting.

Ok, I think that makes sense. so no Y-adapters or anything, just the LF RCA to the LF input and the RF RCA to the RR input.

I am not sure what you mean by "how you have your gains set" not utilizing the full potential of the bridge. Do you mean since your gains are all the way down your not reaching full power on the amp? In theory, arent the RSd comps only rated at 120w? so throwing a full 250 at them might be a little much...

[dwnrodeo]

Ok, I think that makes sense. so no Y-adapters or anything, just the LF RCA to the LF input and the RF RCA to the RR input.

I am not sure what you mean by "how you have your gains set" not utilizing the full potential of the bridge. Do you mean since your gains are all the way down your not reaching full power on the amp? In theory, arent the RSd comps only rated at 120w? so throwing a full 250 at them might be a little much...

^Yep, that's how I have the amp connected. By keeping the gain pots on the amplifier all of the way down, and by increasing only the line driver output until I hear distortion then turning it down a little I know I am not getting the full wattage out of the Roadster because I didn't have to adjust the line driver much. However, I know that when I turn my headunit up to the volume I had it at (about 3/4 of max volume) when setting the gains, I know my speakers shouldn't be getting a clipped signal. Plus, I never turn it up that loud anyway, it's just too loud for me.

[ttocs]

man if you guys think that they are going to do a test/burn in on the rest of the mass manfufactured stuff that is comming after their LE amp don't ya think you are pissing in the wind? They made a few hundred of those amps and from what they said above they didn't even bother to do a good enough documentation/explenation of its stats and install instructions let alone a birth sheet. I too have noticed many many errors in the technical documentation from aamp after working in the industry that has obviously been badly translated to english because they didn't really care. I think it is ignorant to think that they will not do it to the LE amps and then will do it on the 20 bazillion amps they are about to start cranking out.

I am not sure why you keep missin git but aain my problem with the offshore amp was that they seemed to have a higher failure rate then the good-old stuff. I never had anything from the Ti line up be bad out of the box, never even heard of one.

Now of course pg is going to tell you that their last stuff was better since there is a real good chance that this new line is a slightly better improvment and maybe even just a revision of the old board under the new heatsink. I worked with the old stuff and the new stuff and my opinions are based on what I have had my hands/ears on just like james. If you do not like our opinions, you will hate them when you see they could be right. I hate it too...........

[NewOldStock]

man if you guys think that they are going to do a test/burn in on the rest of the mass manfufactured stuff that is comming after their LE amp don't ya think you are pissing in the wind? They made a few hundred of those amps and from what they said above they didn't even bother to do a good enough documentation/explenation of its stats and install instructions let alone a birth sheet. I too have noticed many many errors in the technical documentation from aamp after working in the industry that has obviously been badly translated to english because they didn't really care. I think it is ignorant to think that they will not do it to the LE amps and then will do it on the 20 bazillion amps they are about to start cranking out. Calling me ignorant for pointing it out is just childish.

I am not sure why you keep missin git but aain my problem with the offshore amp was that they seemed to have a higher failure rate then the good-old stuff. I never had anything from the Ti line up be bad out of the box, never even heard of one.

Now of course pg is going to tell you that their last stuff was better since there is a real good chance that this new line is a slightly better improvment and maybe even just a revision of the old board under the new heatsink. I worked with the old stuff and the new stuff and my opinions are based on what I have had my hands/ears on just like james. If you do not like our opinions, you will hate them when you see they could be right. I hate it too...........

but you havent SEEN or HEARD ANYTHING from AAMP/PG yet... you know, I have decided that because I had some skanky blonde ex-girlfriends (which was the whole reason I dated them) that all women with blonde hair are skanks. what the f*ck?

I still havent seen or heard of any Ryval gear being DOA or even dying after being abused like a redheaded step child. Werent those made in China/Korea/Taiwan/somewhere other than the US?

There is no evidence that the new gear from AAMP is bad. If there is, post it here and lets end the debate.

We all want PG to succeed, but if you have proof that AAMP is building crap gear, post the proof here so we can all see it, so we can all be on the same page and so we can end the "its made in china so it must be crap" threads.

What I find interesting is that you seem to dislike the PG gear thats made in china, but you dont seem to have a problem with anything else made in china... I pointed out in my earlier post that your car is made at least partly in china - but your not spewing ignorance about that... my guess is because you own one, have first hand experience with it and have come to realize that its not all crap. Otherwise, you would own a 100% american made vehicle - probably some sort of bicycle since thats just about the only thing that might not have non-US parts in it

So again, we all understand that the new PG amps are made in China. We all also understand that Rodin did not "get it" when it comes to PG and that they really didnt do much more than hurt the PG name, except make some gear that is widely regarded as some of the best audio gear for the money... but we better start arguing to all those people that their opinions on stuff they have actually heard in person is wrong and that what they heard was a really well polished turd because it came from China!

As for AAMP... in 3 months, they have spent millions on 30+ product refreshes and improvements and had them ready for CES. That much attention to a brand, regardless of what country its mass produced in, is something we all should be stunned by and happy about! Even if AAMP wanted to move production to the US, it would take more than 3 f*cking months!

my last two points: The idea that US made goods are superior in any way to overseas made products is pure ignorance. I am sure you have heard of Mercedes Benz...? Guess which vehicle has the lowest quality of ANY of their vehicles? The US made M-class... I am sure thats just a fluke though... Mercedes doesnt know sh*t about building cars.

Last - prove it, to all of us. If we're the ones in the dark, being naive, etc... just prove to us all, right now, that the new gear from AAMP/PG is inferior. You cant. You cant prove that the new PG is any better or worse than the old PG any more than I can. The difference is that I, and most of the rest of us, have come to understand that PG is never going to be what it was in '92... I cant ride my bike to the PG warehouse in portland and talk to the PG guys about "what I am going to do when I get my first car" like I used to.

instead - we all hope that PG can turn a profit this time, make solid, dependable gear that can stand toe to toe with the likes of Brax or Genesis... but while the chances are slim that it will, just because it cant doesnt make us love the gear any less.

and just one last time - for those not paying attention - PG AMPS ARE MADE IN CHINA... and I will be first in line to by one.