Can my Alternator take it?

[KillerX]

My new car has either a 100A alt or a 120A (dealer still getting back to me on this) Can it handle my ZX950? or should I consider going down to a D class amp? What would you recommend?

Brad

[ttocs]

how loud do you want to play it?

Hope your vehicle has a large amoung of realestate to mount that puppy. I only got to install one and thankfully it was in an expidition so we did not have to get creative but it almost took up the whole floor.

[12voltjunky]

does anyone know if there is a formula for answering the original question?

[Bfowler]

well...watts = v*I (currant) so assuming he's running his 950 at normal power of 500 bridged and the fronts non bridged at 75x4. thats 800 watts


lets be optimistic and say hes charging at 14.4v

14.4 * X = 800

so thats 55.5 amps right there.

[NewOldStock]

oh hell... that means my Roadster66 will draw 76 amps at full tilt...

Sweet!

[fuzzysnuggleduck]

well...watts = v*I (currant) so assuming he's running his 950 at normal power of 500 bridged and the fronts non bridged at 75x4. thats 800 watts


lets be optimistic and say hes charging at 14.4v

14.4 * X = 800

so thats 55.5 amps right there.

That's assuming 100% efficiency. I'd say it's somewhat more accurate to assume around 50-60% efficiency from a class A/B.

[ttocs]

I was going to say the same thing that the efficiency will kill that equation. It an ok point of reference but not all that accurate.

The power demands on the system will have just as much to do with your music and listening habits as it does the equipment. If you plan on jammin some deep bass for long perdiods then it will take more power then it would in my system.

To be sure that you can supply the power that amp needs, as well as your car it would be a good idea to upgrade the factory power wiring as well as your alt. If the budget doesn't allow it then you will have to make due but I would at the minumum recomend upgrading the stock wiring for that amp.

[scottn29]

max current draw is not neeeded to know unless you play sine waves in your car all the time, since music is dynamic. I have ran 4 amps with fusing of over 250 amps in my car and not a single problem with the alternator or charging system

[dwnrodeo]

I was going to say the same thing that the efficiency will kill that equation. It an ok point of reference but not all that accurate.

The power demands on the system will have just as much to do with your music and listening habits as it does the equipment. If you plan on jammin some deep bass for long perdiods then it will take more power then it would in my system.

To be sure that you can supply the power that amp needs, as well as your car it would be a good idea to upgrade the factory power wiring as well as your alt. If the budget doesn't allow it then you will have to make due but I would at the minumum recomend upgrading the stock wiring for that amp.

I agree with ttocs here. Upgrade your under hood power cable and then see if you have problems with dimming or current demands. As for switching to a class D amp, you have 50% efficiency versus 80% efficiency. Assuming you're going to only use 500 watts for sub duty, that equates to roughly a 10 amp difference. Nothing to really even worry about. Use the ZX950.

[Stryker]

Do the big 3 and you'll be fine. You will have nothing to worry about if you have a 120 amp alt. even if you only have a 100 amp you'll probably be fine....

[Bfowler]

crap, i forgot about efficacy. good call guys

[smgreen20]

-1 for Brian.

That was my first thought. 55.5 amps at say 60% efficiency = 92.5 amps

[stipud]

Thats only 92.5 amps assuming test tones though. On music it will be significantly lower. Rarely do I ever recommend an alternator for anyone who doesn't listen to bass tracks 24/7.

[SolacE]

I have a 220amp alternator that tends to stay around 122amps at idle. I also have a battbap (which I believe it past its useful life) and a yellow top optima and my zx950 still show noticable draw on my electical system. It wasnt noticable at all when I first installed the new alternator thats why I am assuming my battcap needs to be replaced.

The zx950 killed many stock alternators on my car. I believe my stock unit was rated at peak of 120.

[kg1961]

i had my reactor in my new bmw 328i it came with a 170amp att. and the batt. in the rear never showed any signs of power draw
would like a small amp just me oh and i had a pg 20 fd power core

[ttocs]

you can run any system on a stock electrical system for a little while depending again on you, your music tasts and the vehicle. I would not be suprised if it did or did not work out. What kind of car?

[KillerX]

Thanks for all your replies guys!!! and help!

My car is a Saturn Astra (in Europe its a Vauxhall/Opal Astra) I was thinking of using the zx950 for mids and tweets right now and maybe keep it open for a sub or two later on in life. Im just worried my little alt will die after a year of being used, I rarely crank the sounds but when I want to I dont want to have it cracking or distorting like it would now with the stock deck powering the RSD's and Zero points.

I guess the final answer will be, will an amp make that big of a difference in the sound/SQ? or am I making all this extra hassel for nothing? Any thoughts?

Brad

[ttocs]

nothing? AI would be happy to buy nothing from you and save you the trouble.

If you are not going to be jamming on it for long periods then you will be fine. As for SQ I liked the ZX series personally.

[KHPower]

I would go for it! Do the big three with some thick cable and get you a good battery.

If you ever choose to upgrade your alternator remember that the cheaper ones are cheap for a reason Its always good to check around town and see if someone has the knowledge to rebuild your alternator as well because some folk wont charge a arm and a leg and youll have more punch to back up that amp

[KillerX]

woow I never thought about rebuilding the Alt.

How about sound? will I really notice a difference in sound/Sound quality compared to my deck's amp?

Its been a while since iv had a stereo with a amp on the mids and tweets.

Again im just wondering if all this hassle is worth it

Brad

[ttocs]

are you really asking the SQ differences between that huge monstrosity of an amp and your factory radio?



















not much of a difference really, again be happy to buy it off of ya

[NewOldStock]

woow I never thought about rebuilding the Alt.

How about sound? will I really notice a difference in sound/Sound quality compared to my deck's amp?

Its been a while since iv had a stereo with a amp on the mids and tweets.

Again im just wondering if all this hassle is worth it

Brad

Brad - you have GOT to be kidding.

personally I have spent tens of thousands on car audio gear over the last 20+ years for the EXACT reason that it sounds better than a head unit alone or god forbid an OEM stereo system as a whole.

There is no comparison.

Does filet mignon taste better than a shit-pie? (best guess here) yeah, it does.

[KHPower]

Most definitely it will sound better. Not only will you have more power backed sound , you also wont clip at the weak levels your head unit would.
Your speakers will thank you so will your ears.

I used to run off of deck power with my speakers in my van. When I heard my component speakers on a amp (zx500) I never turned back and as of now i run all of my speakers and components on zx500"s , only use deck power if you want rear fill or something , IMO. I guess it all comes down to how much you enjoy your music , if your happy with how it sounds on the head unit then thats all that matter but give the amp a try

[KillerX]

well Im sold!!! LOL I guess I was just making excuses. Well im gonna start making some blueprints

Thanks everyone for your input!

Brad