My Eurosports sound like chit

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waynehead
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Post by waynehead »

Yeah that is usually ideal, but I understand you are tied to the current locations. If those speakers sounded as good as they looked in there you would be good to go. Very clean looking. The only option you have now is build the current baffle you have. Maybe try to get some sort of sealed chamber for the mid and seal the holes in the doors with deadening to keep you from getting canceling waves. Then pick you up one of those Pioneer premier head units that do three-way active and T/A and you got it. Im not crazy about head unit crossovers but I think that would be the easiest route. I used to have one and it was pretty nice. Comes with a mic and you put it on your headrest and let it do its thing. Auto eq, gain adjust, and time alignment. I was actually surprised what it did to my stereo at the time.
We don't need no stinkin' bass boost!
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stipud
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Post by stipud »

You could probably fiberglass an enclosure onto the back of that door with relative ease. That's what I would probably recommend at this point. If you would have used the door panel, you could have layered it with deadener and used the door as an enclosure. Mounted to the door panel like that, you don't have that option... but the enclosure idea should still work.

Best of all you don't have to make it pretty, which makes the fiberglassing pretty damn easy!
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Rold Gold
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Post by Rold Gold »

You might just have to dabble with some fiberglass.............. I know it sounds abit more advanced and takes more time but once you start you'll wonder why you didn't sooner. I did.... :oops: I just haven't done very many projects yet to get real good with it though..... I've seen plenty of setups like yers and they sounded great....... But they were also running active...... :hmm:

There are acouple sites that explain the how-to very well.
http://www.fiberglassforums.com/
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scottn29
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Post by scottn29 »

You are gonna need to stiffen the door panel up alot to get decent results like that. The panel vibrates cancelling the cone movement. You can attach some wood dowels or rods from the panel to the actual door. I would also fiberglass the back side of the plastic door panel with fiberglass after sanding it really rough so the fiberglass has something to hold on to. Good speakers arent good without a good install.
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ShockTherapy
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The ES-6 sounds sooooo gooood!!!!!

Post by ShockTherapy »

scottn29 wrote:If you are running those passively, it might be best to mount the kick and the tweet in the kick panels. Usually running a passive 3-way works out best like this as you equalize PLD's (path length distance) which is basically time alignment. Midrange in the door is not ideal.

Just an option I am throwing out.

I'm taking your advice. The kicks should be here any day in the mail.

I deadened my doors completely and mounted the ES-6 to a 3/4" baffle then silconed around the baffle to seal it to the door. I cannot believe how good these mids sound! I decided to just hook them up full range to hear how the doors improved the sound and OMG!!! These mids are fantastic! I played some jazz music and the range was unbelievable! It sounded as if I had a midbass, midrange and tweeter. THIS SPEAKER WAS HANDLING ALMOST THE FULL SPECTRUM AND WITH UNREAL CLARITY. I can't wait to install the kicks. With the midbass speakers crossed over correctly and the mids and tweets angled right and installed it should rock. Man! I just can't get over that mid!!! In my 20+ years in car audio this speaker is one of the best mids that I've heard.
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waynehead
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Post by waynehead »

hell yeah, thats more like it
We don't need no stinkin' bass boost!
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marko
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Post by marko »

i bet the sound is like night and day! install is paramount to get anything better than oem out of decent speakers..
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reallyxxxxxxloud
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Post by reallyxxxxxxloud »

Wow is that the same car? What a difference. Yes you will definitely notice a huge increase in quality.

If only you could listen to Marko's car.... It would be a good reference point= It sounds like arse :P
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ShockTherapy
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Post by ShockTherapy »

marko wrote:i bet the sound is like night and day! install is paramount to get anything better than oem out of decent speakers..
Yes! The sound IS like night and day! I'm thinking that the door panels installed will fill the rest of the holes so I get a remotely sealed environment for the midbass. I cannot wait to get my kickpanels so I can hear what my components are supposed to sound like. I've always mounted speakers directly to the metal with a foam gasket in between... This is my first time using 3/4" mdf baffles and let me tell you, WOW. I know I'm jumping the gun here and haven't even finished my install but it's nice to see some bright light at the end of the tunnel. Thank you all so much for helping me... I will try to write a detailed review and comparison with my QSD-216s that I replaced.
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marko
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Post by marko »

reallyxxxxxxloud wrote:Wow is that the same car? What a difference. Yes you will definitely notice a huge increase in quality.

If only you could listen to Marko's car.... It would be a good reference point= It sounds like arse :P
my system is in it's infancy (set up wise) and yes it does sound like arse compared to my old skoda octavia, that will remain my reference for many years to come, it was an incredible sounding system :shock:
Ti1 headunit (unique)
Outlaw in crate.
2x original shrouded ms2250's.
Route 66 in box + custom m100 to match.
Roadster 66 in flight case
Octane LE in box.
Reactor #186 in flight case.
Reactor EQ232
Ti400.2 AL
AX204A + EQ232 + ZPX2 + TBA set
ZCS6 component set
Tantrum+Titanium bass cubes
Ti12d Elite sub
DD5 + DD10 + 6 Ti blocks!
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KUB3
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Post by KUB3 »

I managed to fire up my new system today. The CDT drivers sound great - very clear and pretty amazing low end from a pair of 6.8" subs, each in their own sealed +0.25cuft enclosures. My planned rear sub is no longer required so I'm selling the box I already made for it :lol:
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marko
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Post by marko »

i've made a bit more progress this week with mine too, after i realised one of my midbass was only getting 85watts and not 245 from the bridged m50's. when i recapped the outlaws i must have not connected the spade connections up correctly inside and bridged mode is now + and + not the outer + and - :idiot:

now i have full power to the midbass and a few tweeks here and there and tonal wise it's stunning, shame imaging and staging are way off, i may have to experiment further with the 3w2's and possibly go back to kick builds..
Ti1 headunit (unique)
Outlaw in crate.
2x original shrouded ms2250's.
Route 66 in box + custom m100 to match.
Roadster 66 in flight case
Octane LE in box.
Reactor #186 in flight case.
Reactor EQ232
Ti400.2 AL
AX204A + EQ232 + ZPX2 + TBA set
ZCS6 component set
Tantrum+Titanium bass cubes
Ti12d Elite sub
DD5 + DD10 + 6 Ti blocks!
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reallyxxxxxxloud
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Post by reallyxxxxxxloud »

I was just kidding you Marko... I know from Talkaudio how many hours you put into tuning your stereo's. It always amazes me how few people tune there stereo properly...
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ShockTherapy
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The Kicks!

Post by ShockTherapy »

I know these are Q-form but after putting 3 layers of deadening they are stiff as can be.They weigh about 3 times as much to. I used SEM color match paint to match my interior. I'm in the process of installing them but I've run into a parking brake issue. They say to use 2 Crescent wrenches to bend it 1.5" to the right... I've measured over and over and I still think it will hit my kicks. hmm... Has anyone dealt with this issue before? and if so help a brotha out.
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KUB3
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Post by KUB3 »

So the mids are still free air then
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ShockTherapy
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Post by ShockTherapy »

KUB3 wrote:So the mids are still free air then

Pretty much. The panels suck up tight against the factory carpet as well as the other plastic panels. It sounds really good.
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waynehead
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Post by waynehead »

right on man
We don't need no stinkin' bass boost!
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stipud
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Post by stipud »

With 4" mids you could get away with putting a 6" plastic cup on the back and deadening it for a small enclosure.

Certainly looks a hell of a lot better than the first try! See what a difference the install makes!
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Post by ShockTherapy »

stipud wrote:With 4" mids you could get away with putting a 6" plastic cup on the back and deadening it for a small enclosure.

Certainly looks a hell of a lot better than the first try! See what a difference the install makes!
After installing the kickpanels I wasn't satisfied with the sound. I took your advice on the cup idea. I went and picked up these thick Ziplock brand plastic containers. I sprayed the inside with 3 layers of black undercoating then added a few layers of thick sound deadener. The little enclosures weigh 3 times as much as they did new and seem pretty darn rigid. I attatched them with a very generous coating of aquarium sealant. I know it seems strange but this stuff is soo strong and once it dries not only will the enclosure be sealed, the aquarium sealant with give me a very tiny amount of flex so i can manipulate the kickpanel back into place. I used all the room i had behind the panel... these little guys are as big as i could go.

They're drying right now... I'll install them tomorrow. I'm hoping for an improvement in my midrange. it sounded funny free air.
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Clarion DRZ-9255
JL HD 900/5
Zapco Z300
JBL MS-8
Dynaudio MW160 (midbass)
Audible Physics XR3m (mid)
Morel MT23 (high)
Morel 5c (Rearfill)
Morel Ultimo SC12
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stipud
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Post by stipud »

Enclosure is tiny, but it should definitely help with the backwaves. Consider adding some polyfill in there (if there is room), to make the enclosure seem larger to the speaker.
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Post by ttocs »

those enclosures look familiar, good work! make sure you use a foam gasket now between the speaker and the kick to ensure a good seal or you will hear it start to whistle between them.
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ShockTherapy
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Post by ShockTherapy »

ttocs wrote:those enclosures look familiar, good work! make sure you use a foam gasket now between the speaker and the kick to ensure a good seal or you will hear it start to whistle between them.

I made sure to add a nice seal between the woofer and the baffle. I have to say... The kicks sound 100% better! especially the voices... At high volumes the voices would begin to break up and sometimes sound tin cannish. Now the voices are crystal clear and the pianos, flutes, etc,... sound much better as well. I'm VERY surprised by the performance of the Soundstream D60 on the rearfill! I have the gain set to minimal and it doesnt take away from the fronstage whatsoever. I was curious so I turned up the gain.... wow! These little amps are great! VERY dynamic and clean.

After listening to different music tracks I'm thinking that I need to do some tuning. The ES300 crossovers were adjusted but with the addition of the CDT 500 series upstage modules and the WS100i imaging tweeters I will need some additional tuning to get things just right. Don't get me wrong! the sound is good but I know that i can squeeze some more performance out of the setup. I'll let you guys know how the tuning goes.
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JL HD 900/5
Zapco Z300
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Dynaudio MW160 (midbass)
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waynehead
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Post by waynehead »

right on im glad things are working out
We don't need no stinkin' bass boost!
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