Mazda 929 Install

Tiger · Post by **Tiger** » Sat Mar 13, 2010 8:52 am

I also have just recently acquired these aswell:

Dayton RS52 midranges to sit next to the Vifa XT25 tweeters. Should sound sweet. I have the midbass drivers in mind (to upgrade to later) but they are yet to hit aussie shores. So until they do.. the Philips midbasses I have now will do :p

OK, no more updates ... for now...

Post by **stipud** » Sat Mar 13, 2010 8:53 am

Couldn't you have put the headunit in the lower slot, with the storage bin on top? That would have solved the clearance issue.

Tiger · Post by **Tiger** » Sat Mar 13, 2010 8:56 am

Would be an absolute pain in the ass to handle down there with this kind of car.
This way, I enjoy the creature comforts of being a lazy-ass and resting my hand on the auto while I'm operating my head unit! Perfect height for it!

The thought crossed my mind, unit I thought about the cupholder drawer thats coming. The cups would hit the 1.5 din face EVERYTIME. So, I scrapped that idea.

Tiger · Post by **Tiger** » Sat Mar 13, 2010 8:58 am

I forgot to show you actually... this is why the head unit is up there....

Should be here next week some time. That little drawer thats there now is a temp fit to merely fill the void

Tiger · Post by **Tiger** » Mon May 03, 2010 5:18 am

It's been a while since I updated this thread. So here goes....

I was doing all in my power to make sure I got my hands on 2 pairs of Exodus Audio Anarchy mids. BUT, an opportunity came up and I've been fortunate to obtain a pair of 3 ways ZEROpoint splits with dual 6.5" mids, which I can run active off the following collection of goodies

2 x MRV-1507 amps for my Xmax 12s (1 each), 2 x MRV-F407 to run my new dual mids bridged at 4 ohm, a 3rd MRV-F407 to run the Daytons and Vifas up front and the MRV-F303 will run the 4" ZEROpoint splits passive as rear fill.

Now, to start doing some work in cabin with all this gear! haha. I'm waiting on the ZEROpoints to be shipped over, then I will start rocking. But, I can organise my boot at least (now that I have the V12 collection all set)

Tiger · Post by **Tiger** » Fri Jun 04, 2010 10:45 pm

OK.... the updates are as follows:

I've sold the odd amp out (above), which was the F303 and I've sourced another MRV-1507. So, I've still got six amps.... just ALOT more power for my front stage.

I now give you... a pic of my new amps

I've sourced my front stage/rear fill.

Dual 6.5" ZPM160s in the doors to run at 2ohm stereo on a 1507 amp.
The Dayton RS52 and Vifa XT25 pairs will accompany these speakers up front (each run off a bridged F407 at 4ohm)
The 4s and tweeters will run actve off a F407 for rear fill (so they won't be running hard)

The unfortunate thing with the Zeropoint 6.5" mids is that 2 of them were somewhat damaged, most likely in transit. You can see in the pics that towo of the cones are down low as opposed to how they should be. I'm sending these off after the weekend to get assessed by Speakerbits in Port Melbourne, and 9/10, if they say they'll need a recoil.. I'll tell them to recoil all four together. (and thrown in a second spider in each driver while they're at it.. for good measure! :p haha)

Because of my boot layout, I've opted to use these babies below, to cool the buggers off under a false floor

Specs on the fans are:

Material: plastic
Bearing type: rifle bearing
Rotation speed: 2000RPM
Acoustical noise: 25 dB(A)
Airflow: 32.11CFM
Rated voltage: 12V
Max Input current: 0.20A
Size: 80 x 80 x 25 mm
Cable length: 27cm
Color: clear
LED color: blue

These babies in action: LINK

Tiger · Post by **Tiger** » Sat Jun 05, 2010 8:39 am

OK, I'm gonna need some help please

I've gone crazy on boot layouts with all my amps now. So, I've taken pics and here are the setups:

A)

B)

C)

D)

E)

F)

Now... whilst you folk are picking which one I should go for... I'll be messing around with the following stuff below:

^^^ This will be my "to-do" list today because of yesterday's rain!

Post by **Bfowler** » Sat Jun 05, 2010 11:33 am

oh man, all those v12's in the same direction is sexy!

Post by **stipud** » Sat Jun 05, 2010 12:22 pm

I like A the most personally, but the ones with the subs in the middle aren't bad either.

jbob0124 · Post by **jbob0124** » Sat Jun 05, 2010 1:03 pm

I like the last one the best.

Tiger · Post by **Tiger** » Sat Jun 05, 2010 6:23 pm

Thanks for the comments, guys

E & F would be tough looking, for sure. After some interesting points thrown my way off another forum, I've had to take into account my power arrangement/accessibilty for competitions and also, would I consider an amp rack.

For my power arrangement, I've got a 0AWG T-Junction and two x 1 0AWg in to 3 4AWG out splitters. From those, they split into 6 separate runs of 4AWG and I can put 4AWG in/4AWG out inline fuses for each of my amps and mount them somewhere for accessibility. I was looking at that back wall in install (A) for my designated fuse area. A fused distro for 6 amps has been a trick to find, so I thought "STUFF IT! EACH AMP GETS ITS OWN AMP INSTEAD OF A FUSED DISTRO". Better to be safe than sorry.

A rack was a thought, but I'm honestly going to need a spot on designing one. I've never worked with amp racks before and I've got some ideas, BUT I wouldn't know where to start. I could pen some ideas for a rack down. Having said that. (A) is really starting to win me over here. It is simple enough in design, it looks tough, and if glassed right, I should be able to access my spare wheel still and my tool kit on the right. I can throw a cover over the floor and still use the boot. So it CAN be fully functional. Every other way would throw functionality out the window and look more like a show piece.

Anything I may have missed here guys, let me know please

Tiger · Post by **Tiger** » Sun Jun 06, 2010 12:15 am

With a trunk kit of Dynamat Xtreme, I was able to get this much done:

And to get the floor a bit easier to work with when it comes time to fixing it in place (next weekend) I cut out the corner just above the channel for the petrol tank.

I've got to grab some liquid nails to fix my blocks to the floor and then I've got something to fix the false floor to. However.... I'm gonna need some more deadener very soon, I can see how you could use a bulk pack just for your boot EASILY!

winno · Post by **winno** » Sun Jun 06, 2010 2:49 am

Hey Bud.

Go for 'F' - definitely.

I love those V12 amps. My first amp was an MRV-F407. A great amp. I even bought a second one to put into what is now my ex-wife's car (although it's stopped working now and is about to be replaced by an older MRV-F403).

Go all out on this install as it'll look great and with that gear, so long as your execution is sound, will sound fantastic as well.

p.s. I went from a 407 to a ZX450. As much as I still have a fond spot for the last of the Alpine V12 mosfet amps like ours, I've never looked back

Tiger · Post by **Tiger** » Sun Jun 06, 2010 12:59 pm

After much deliberating, (and arm twisting) I might be able to meet you guys halfway on this and do install E. Where the subs are, I can slightly angle the subs to fire either upwards or still inverted (I'm yet to decide) and surround it with some fibreglass sprayed in a gloss piano black or a grey to match the amps. And watever I spray that color.. I'll change the woodgrain to match that theme. Modernise the look of the car a little. And from velour to suede/leather

I'll have an answer by tonight on this install. I'm waiting on a couple of answers to be giving on a couple of matters with regards to it all

Cheers for the input

Tiger · Post by **Tiger** » Wed Jun 16, 2010 2:18 am

4.5 sheets more in the mix...

And the final product... for now... is:

That totals a full bulk pack in my boot and you know what... STILL not enough! It's like a drop in a bucket with this boot!!!

I've got some deadener on its way next week. I'll buy some paint on stuff for the fiddly stuff shortly aswell. I've got about 60 odd sq. ft. of Damplifer Pro... that oughta do some damage around here

More to come...

Tiger · Post by **Tiger** » Mon Jun 28, 2010 5:45 am

More updates:

A mate of mine and I got stuck into the boot over the weekend... and the kick panels... here's the pics.

Started cutting out box number 1

And then....

^^^ THIS got my attention. It WILL need to be sorted before this boot gets finalised.

^^^...and box number two under way....

Tiger · Post by **Tiger** » Mon Jun 28, 2010 5:47 am

We made the boxes in a way that the sub boxes will be bolted down and the amp floor on top of it. So they ain't going ANYWHERE! Yes.. spare wheel is gone... I ain't gonna miss it. RACV roadside assistance will be my new spare wheel! hahaha (and some Tyreweld)

Time to make some shapes out of the boot....

My mate was getting on the "resin" and getting high as a kite! :p

Tiger · Post by **Tiger** » Mon Jun 28, 2010 5:48 am

And now I'm getting into it!!! :p

.... moving onto the kicks

OH LOOK.... IT'S A BOX!!

WOOHOO!!

hahaha.

Tiger · Post by **Tiger** » Mon Jun 28, 2010 5:50 am

And they are my kicks.... what for? My midrange and tweeters...

Back in 2 weeks.. (in this thread of course)

Post by **Bfowler** » Mon Jun 28, 2010 7:11 am

you sir....have way too much fun with that. and the card board is a new approach to me (but seems to work well!) nice going!

Post by **ttocs** » Mon Jun 28, 2010 8:20 am

I have used poster board to help keep the material from sagging when making bends and such. It is grea to hold it and even maked the back look a little more finished when it is smooth and saturated.

Tiger · Post by **Tiger** » Mon Jun 28, 2010 12:58 pm

Bfowler..you absolutely right... I was!

This is my first attempt at glassing, so it is still a learning curve at that. But the cardboard boxes were another suggestion given to me. Some do masking tape, others go straight over the panel, some do plastic bags. We'll see how this goes... if it don't work.. Plan B!

Damo95 · Post by **Damo95** » Mon Jun 28, 2010 2:12 pm

i actually watched pros over here use the cardboard for the backs of sub boxes... this is the first time i've done fibreglass sub boxes too, after doing kicks, pillars, door pods, etc..

oh.. and for the record... i was the mate getting high as a kite doing the glassing... i offered to help John out with his install and get some practice myself...

so far, its coming along well.. altho we've had some minor issues with the kick panel "boxes" as the cardboard outer was too tight in the space allowed and had a hard timing coming out... but i think we'll remove the cardboard part, and add another layer of glass to seal up the enclosure.. these will be for the zeropoint 4's + tweeters..

Post by **ttocs** » Mon Jun 28, 2010 3:07 pm

you should really be wearing a mask at the very least but I always use a $20 carbon resperator. Those fumes are nothing more then very small pieces of resin and you do not want them collecting in your lungs mang! You see what it does to material, it can do the same to you after a while.......

I know alot of people do not but take my word for it, you will want your lungs later in life. Save inhaling the bad stuff for till

it is worth inhaling.........

Post by **ttocs** » Tue Jun 29, 2010 6:38 pm

hey man I found something in the bottom of my toolbox today and thought about you. I found a matching set of alpine V12 4awg-8awg power reducers that I thought you could use, still have the rubber on them(black and red). The big brass bitches that allow you to use a 4 awg wire to power your amp where it accepts an 8 awg. If you want them let me know and you can have them for the price of shipping.