best sub for 200W

lawrence131 · Post by **lawrence131** » Thu Jun 24, 2010 10:54 pm

I have a MB Quart 4 channel amp that I'll be bridging for 200W RMS for the sub at 4 ohms. Is this sufficient to get decent sound from a RSD 12 or RSDC 12? Also, the amp manual recommends 4 ohms bridged, but if I wired a sub at 2 ohms do you think it would be ok (would I end up getting more than 200W if it doesn't blow up)? It's a relatively budget amp - the MB discus 450.

str3atwarrior · Post by **str3atwarrior** » Fri Jun 25, 2010 1:57 am

You could run a XS104SVC with this

Post by **mhyde71** » Fri Jun 25, 2010 2:37 am

or mayhaps a JLw3?? i dunno thought their specs were around 200-300 (maybe it is 300- hence the W3)
BUT my W6 is not 600- so i dunno how that works with JL's gear- and the W7 is certainly not 700- so lil confused about how the numbers work for JL's gear- BUT i bet a 12" W3 would work well

lawrence131 · Post by **lawrence131** » Fri Jun 25, 2010 5:04 am

thanks, i researched the JL W3 as well and it has great reviews. it has a higher RMS rating and lower sensitivity than the RSD 12 and is almost 3x the price though (the RSD is only $59 shipped from sonix). I'm not sure if the higher RMS rating and lower sensitivity means it requires more power to sound decent though. I'd be willing to pay the extra $$ if the JL is confirmed to sound good with only 200W.

i just ordered the 2011 WRX and it'll take 2 months to arrive. since i track it and use the trunk to throw my triathlon gear in quickly, i wanted a "stealth" install option and ability to take out sub within seconds for space and weight reasons. The amp is a cheaper, light/small one that fits under the passenger seat and i didn't want to add a second amp since the sub can be yanked out literally in 30 seconds.

haven't looked into the xs104 yet, but aren't those out of production for some time now? Any other suggestions for a decent 10-12" sub that is very efficient and can produce ok sound at 200W?

Post by **kg1961** » Fri Jun 25, 2010 5:40 am

i have used 3 differnt set of the jl 10w3 the first second and 3rd gen. I found the 3rd to have the best sound but they need a little more power
I used the first series off a jl 300/4 150 rms and they were great. I still love those subs. you can make the box ported and you can used less power...

this might help as it show all jl products and power needed

http://mobile.jlaudio.com/products_subs ... page_id=35

as you can see when they rate a sub at 300 that at the peak of the power they can handle
like my jl 12w6v2 they love 400-500 I would not give them more they don't need it

Post by **stipud** » Fri Jun 25, 2010 7:08 am

I run my RSDC12 at 250 watts and I LOVE IT. Get one!

Post by **Bfowler** » Fri Jun 25, 2010 7:22 am

i wouldn't do 2ohms bridged on that amp...

i also wouldnt do a rsd12 they just arent very efficient

my vote is a ryval, XS, or rsdc

str3atwarrior · Post by **str3atwarrior** » Fri Jun 25, 2010 8:32 am

Xs124svc is what i'm running, and i just loves them!

Post by **fuzzysnuggleduck** » Fri Jun 25, 2010 11:25 am

My 12" RSdC subs do just fine off ~200W (each).

lawrence131 · Post by **lawrence131** » Fri Jun 25, 2010 2:59 pm

Awesome feedback, thanks! I was looking for an excuse to get the RSDC, but I had the misconception that more expensive subs with higher RMS ratings also need more power to sound decent.

Unfortunately the 12D2 is discontinued almost everywhere so costs a bit more than the 12D4 but I better run it at 4 ohms as the manual and Bfowler suggests.

Post by **kg1961** » Fri Jun 25, 2010 3:16 pm

here the 2ohm and the 4ohm for sale same price
http://phoenixphorum.com/phoenix-gold-r ... 14748.html

Post by **fuzzysnuggleduck** » Fri Jun 25, 2010 3:17 pm

lawrence131 wrote:Awesome feedback, thanks! I was looking for an excuse to get the RSDC, but I had the misconception that more expensive subs with higher RMS ratings also need more power to sound decent.

Unfortunately the 12D2 is discontinued almost everywhere so costs a bit more than the 12D4 but I better run it at 4 ohms as the manual and Bfowler suggests.

Well, putting a heck of a lot more clean power on the RSdC is only going to make them better but even at 200-250W in my setup, they get pretty dang rowdy but they aren't reaching x-max.

lawrence131 · Post by **lawrence131** » Fri Jun 25, 2010 3:25 pm

RSDC 122 ordered from onlinecarstereo for $149 -5% coupon code - 5% bing cash back for $134 total! Can't wait, although my car won't come in for 2 months =(

lawrence131 · Post by **lawrence131** » Fri Jun 25, 2010 3:28 pm

Crap! I just clicked order right before I saw your post for $120 for the 122. Guess $14 extra isn't too bad for a good sub.

dedlyjedly · Post by **dedlyjedly** » Sat Jun 26, 2010 12:06 am

Looks like you already pulled the trigger, but I'm a big fan of the Boston G1 subs for lower power scenarios.

http://www.crutchfield.com/p_065G11244/ ... 2-44&ssi=0

The Golden One · Post by **The Golden One** » Sat Jun 26, 2010 10:09 am

you could go ported if you plan on using that amp on the rsd12 for a while it would take a great deal less power to push it.

Post by **Bfowler** » Sat Jun 26, 2010 10:53 am

^true.

jedly...the G1 is a fine sub....but for $120! thats rsdc territory!

Post by **ttocs** » Sat Jun 26, 2010 11:17 am

I don't know if I would recomend a ported enclosure when you are going to be sending it so little power.

The Golden One · Post by **The Golden One** » Sat Jun 26, 2010 11:24 am

ttocs wrote:I don't know if I would recomend a ported enclosure when you are going to be sending it so little power.

if he where to go sealed you would bairly hear it at least with a ported box there would be some sort of speaker movement.

Post by **ttocs** » Sat Jun 26, 2010 11:39 am

it will help to control the sub and keep in from being damaged. You will only gain a couple of db at the tuning freq but you will be risking the sub more then you would in a sealed box. I was assuming that if he didn't have money for a bigger amp that would be better for the sub, that he wouldn't have money to replace the sub if it does get damaged. He is already risking putting it into clipping with the low signal power so to put one more possibility in there could put it over the edge.

Post by **Bfowler** » Sat Jun 26, 2010 11:49 am

sounds like he went with the rsdc....even if he clipped the hell out of the signal. he will blow the amp long before he blows the sub.

i maintain that he would be fine with a ported box. 200 watts isnt a ideal scenario, but i really don't think he would be any more at risk then he already is.

Lawrence, which ever box you go with. keep an ear out for distortion. i dont think you could blow that sub with that amp even if you tried.

you will get very decent output, probably 128-130 clean db depending on the car. but know that you aren't going to get piss off your neighbors loud bass with 200 watts. which it sounds like you are fine with.

The Golden One · Post by **The Golden One** » Sat Jun 26, 2010 11:49 am

if the amp is not set right for either encloser it could damage the sub with clipping. clipping will damage a speaker regarless of the encloser and i doubt speaker control would be an issue at that low of a power level.

Post by **Bfowler** » Sat Jun 26, 2010 12:20 pm

hmm, i almost want to test that.

200 watts rms...400MAX watts, round that to 800 watts with a full square wave... and that still shouldnt be enough heat or juice to damage a rsdc

Post by **ttocs** » Sat Jun 26, 2010 12:56 pm

yer kidding right as that has to be wierdest thing I have heard on here. They might be good subs but you start seending them a bad signal and it is only a matter of time

I dare you to send that high of a clipped signal to the sub, and then tell me how long it lasts, not if it lasts......

The Golden One · Post by **The Golden One** » Sat Jun 26, 2010 1:04 pm

i been using phoenix gold amps for too long because i dont even know what clipping and distortion is. oh wait those are things that happen with other brand amps now i know what ive been missing its clipping and distortion.