HOLLY COW LOOK AT THESE FINISHES...

Post by **mhyde71** » Mon Jul 12, 2010 4:10 am

these pic's i came across in a powder coating forum...

it is done with hydro-imagining (AKA water Imaging)
can be done on plastics, hard woods, and metal... almost has me thinking if the octane was hydro-imaged finished...??? as i am (to this day) not sure how they painted on a CF look like they did... so after a few inquiries and research- it is believed to be hydro-imaging... BUT whats more is that powder coating is/was involved with the hydro-imaging process. you lay down a base coat color, apply [dip] in water tank with hydro artwork of your liking/choosing, and then clear coat it.

JUST TRY TO IMAGINE A FINISH LIKE THIS ON AN OS (OR NEW) amp for that matter

these guys have it down... and i could possibly get involved with the hydro imaging process, as it is about the same amount of money as i have into my blast booth, gun and oven. WOULD REALLY set off the coating work being able to offer the hydro imaging...BUT it is still a long ways away from getting even remotely close to being able to get that set up in the shop...BUT i had considered possibly looking at it for applying artwork, but dont think it that type of process. You buy the artwork pre-fabbed, like camouflage, CF, leaves, metal billet, brushed aluminum, etc etc - labels/text and such isnt a possibility- BUT some guys are having some real good luck with airbrushing and then clear coating...

BUT NONETHELESS_ SOME REAL BAD ASS LOOKING WORK RIGHT THERE

have a look at the links i have seeked out...!

http://raindancehydrographics.com/

http://raindancehydrographics.com/patterns

http://www.site.hydrocolors.com/What_is_WTP.php

MATT

Post by **ttocs** » Mon Jul 12, 2010 4:50 am

did you see the gander mountain bike that OCC did? They showed how they do that to bowes and shit like that and did the fenders the same way. It was simple enough to do that pauly and vinny dipped the fenders if I remember correctly but it was neat and easy looking stuff if you had the materdials, could be something done out of the garage if it is affordable enough..

I always thought the CF finish was painted, it is not hard to do.

Post by **mhyde71** » Mon Jul 12, 2010 5:11 am

OOC how would one go about painting that (like on the octane)... how is that done? with the ripples of the fake CF look-a-like... i cant figure it out. one of i can understand but in quantity like 100-500 units... whats that Process? i am curious

I am almost betting they dipped it like this here- but could be wrong

matt

Post by **ttocs** » Mon Jul 12, 2010 5:20 am

infact I am almost sure the octane is painted as there is overspray on the back side if I remember correctly now.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Kv1MZ8WYklk

Post by **ttocs** » Mon Jul 12, 2010 5:21 am

ttocs wrote:infact I am almost sure the octane is painted as there is overspray on the back side if I remember correctly now.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Kv1MZ8WYklk

I did the same finish on my DD5 and rmd to match the octane and they came out ok.

Post by **mhyde71** » Mon Jul 12, 2010 5:23 am

sux i can see/watch youtube right now in china- GFOC as i learned once i got here- BUT i'll check it out when i get home

Post by **ttocs** » Mon Jul 12, 2010 5:32 am

ah well let me explain it to you.

You start with a solid base and you can either do black or silver. Then you get that rubber matt you use on the bottom of drawers and toolboxes that keeps shtuff from sliding around, the kind with little squares and holes inbetween it? Lay that down as a mask and then spray the opposit color. By making it inperfect you can recreat the sheen that cf gives off and by adding some slight offsets of the colors make it look fairly real.

Post by **mhyde71** » Mon Jul 12, 2010 5:35 am

i see- interesting- so it is a masking process. got it!

thx mang'

check the daily smile in a minute, also in the lounge

Post by **ttocs** » Mon Jul 12, 2010 6:06 am

yes and it really is pretty easy to do, you should try it with powder!

The nice thing about it is that you do not need to make it perfect. Making it a little light in some areas just makes it look like the light is catching it differently.

Post by **mhyde71** » Mon Jul 12, 2010 6:24 am

have you seen/watched the video in this site?
http://www.site.hydrocolors.com/What_is_WTP.php

AND looked at the various artwork/patterns available here:
http://raindancehydrographics.com/patterns

some really nice looking stuff i tell you!

i think i will be turning it up a notch here very soon... been looking to get an upgrade for powder system... turning in the 1K system and maybe considering a 3500.00 unit. OR doing something in the shop that will up grade the booth significantly and hopefully yield some even better results

Once i get this artwork down- the skys the limit. I need to finish this one customers job (that 5' medical cabinet he wants coated and modified to his description/liking)- BUT once thats out of the way- I am free man and have been looking at the last component needed for me to be able to do the artwork on the amps.

Post by **mhyde71** » Mon Jul 12, 2010 6:28 am

i dont care what anyone says... say you have a tahoe with a burlwood interior- and re-finished your PG m series in a matching burlwood as seen here:
http://raindancehydrographics.com/patte ... wood-grain

it would be the shiznit- especially with the artwork on the amp afterwards!

Post by **Bfowler** » Mon Jul 12, 2010 8:43 am

ttocs wrote:ah well let me explain it to you.

You start with a solid base and you can either do black or silver. Then you get that rubber matt you use on the bottom of drawers and toolboxes that keeps shtuff from sliding around, the kind with little squares and holes inbetween it? Lay that down as a mask and then spray the opposit color. By making it inperfect you can recreat the sheen that cf gives off and by adding some slight offsets of the colors make it look fairly real.

dude....im trying that when i get home later today! thanks for the tip

Post by **ttocs** » Mon Jul 12, 2010 9:25 am

it isn't hard like I said I did it on my DD5 and my rmd to match my octane. It does not look quite as good as the octane but with more practice I could see it getting better.

http://www.cardomain.com/ride/3237206/2

I just noticed I need to update the DD5 pic since I added the pg decals to help it look more factory. I used aluminum and black as well as a little bit of metallic gunmetal to add the sparkl that you tend to get when it reflects.

tonym · Post by **tonym** » Mon Jul 12, 2010 2:38 pm

ive seen this done before...the image is printed on some film paper of something then set in the water....the image will come off the paper and stay ontop of the water...then you dip your part in..and presto!!!!!!