Ford Exploder Updated 2-1-12 w/ Xcon

dwnrodeo · Post by **dwnrodeo** » Sun Jul 11, 2010 2:42 pm

Like my previous install, this will be slow and based on time and money. I have a couple of goals in mind for this install. First, I'd like to make the vehicle as quiet as possible (or as quiet as my wallet can afford). Luckily, Ford did a pretty good job making this thing quiet from the factory. Second, I do not want to take up any of the cargo room. I bought this vehicle for hauling stuff around and that is a priority. Third, my overall goal of this system is sound quality. Period. I'm sure people's ideas are going to differ from mine, but this is sound quality according to my ears. (I'd like to add here that I do not consider myself an audiophile, just a guy who enjoys good sounding music.)

To start things off, I began tackling my first goal, making the vehicle quieter. I started by using between 1 and 3 layers of Second Skin Damplifier. I had some left over from a previous install and used that for the front doors.

Post by **ttocs** » Sun Jul 11, 2010 2:49 pm

I am really a big fan of covering the entire door even if it is just with the raw dampin material itself. IT makes a huge difference both to keep road noise out as well as to help isolate the signals gererated by the back of the speaker that reflect and cause cancellations. Your door will not rattle like that for sure but I think you could still gain something from sealing those holes up.

dwnrodeo · Post by **dwnrodeo** » Sun Jul 11, 2010 2:52 pm

Once I ran out of my old Damplifier, I had to order some more for the cargo area. Second Skin recently changed their Damplifier to make it about 30% thinner while making the foil thicker. I found it harder to form to corners and cut with a utility knife due to the thicker foil. I also really noticed the weight difference compared to my old Damplifier.

In my previous install, this was the extent of my sound deadening. I didn't realize that the Damplifer was not a noise barrier, only a deadener. This time I purchased some of Second Skin's Luxury Liner Pro. This shit is heavy and thick! It is a closed cell foam with a vinyl layer on top and looks like it would work well. Being nearly 3/8" thick, I'm wondering how the trim panels will go on after installing this stuff... Anyways, here is a shot of the cargo area. I duct taped the seams to keep dirt out and keep the pieces together better. Ghetto? Yes. Effective? You bet your ass.

dwnrodeo · Post by **dwnrodeo** » Sun Jul 11, 2010 2:53 pm

More pics.

dwnrodeo · Post by **dwnrodeo** » Sun Jul 11, 2010 2:55 pm

ttocs wrote:I am really a big fan of covering the entire door even if it is just with the raw dampin material itself. IT makes a huge difference both to keep road noise out as well as to help isolate the signals gererated by the back of the speaker that reflect and cause cancellations. Your door will not rattle like that for sure but I think you could still gain something from sealing those holes up.

Patience my friend. I have big plans for the doors... (10" subwoofers with custom enclosure)

The stock speakers and locations will be covered up later, but until then I would like some music in the vehicle, no matter how crappy it sounds.

str3atwarrior · Post by **str3atwarrior** » Sun Jul 11, 2010 2:59 pm

10 inch in the door?!

Wow can't wait to see this, it's gonna be awesome!

Post by **ttocs** » Sun Jul 11, 2010 3:29 pm

I am about to order the luxery liner for my stang....

dwnrodeo · Post by **dwnrodeo** » Sun Jul 18, 2010 1:05 pm

Some updates from this weekend. I finished with the sound deadening and the noise barrier in the cargo area. I can already tell a noticeable difference when driving. I also got my amp racks made and mounted. The amps will be behind plexi to prevent any passengers from sticking things in behind the trim panels and to prevent any cargo I have from damaging the amps.

dwnrodeo · Post by **dwnrodeo** » Sun Jul 18, 2010 1:07 pm

One XS2300 will be for the tweets, one XS2300 for the midbass, one XS4300 for the mids, and the XS2500 for sub duty. All run actively via headunit and EQ215X.

jbob0124 · Post by **jbob0124** » Sun Jul 18, 2010 1:08 pm

My favorite type of install. Looking good so far.

tonym · Post by **tonym** » Sun Jul 18, 2010 2:21 pm

nice stelth install

dwnrodeo · Post by **dwnrodeo** » Thu Jul 22, 2010 3:48 am

No real install updates right now, but I feel the need to share some pics of the mids and tweeters that just came in yesterday.

Seas L12RCY/P 4.5" Mid-Woofer and Seas 27TFFNC/G 27mm Tweeter. My first impression of these drivers are that they are heavy! Even the tweeters are deceptionally heavy! The magnet on the 4.5" is nearly the same diameter as the cone.

Post by **stipud** » Thu Jul 22, 2010 6:27 am

Mmmmmm... SEAS...

dwnrodeo · Post by **dwnrodeo** » Sun Aug 01, 2010 5:55 pm

Finally got around to doing some work on the install this weekend.
Added: Big Three(Thanks to Zak for the battery terminals), Power Distro Blocks (XS Style), and Amp Power Wiring

Post by **smgreen20** » Sun Aug 01, 2010 6:25 pm

I'm liking those SEAS too, and damn man, you EVER clean that engine compartment?

Post by **ttocs** » Sun Aug 01, 2010 7:52 pm

I know the amp side of the power wire is fused, but you want to fuse the power wire between the batt and the alt as well.

dwnrodeo · Post by **dwnrodeo** » Mon Aug 02, 2010 3:00 am

smgreen20 wrote:I'm liking those SEAS too, and damn man, you EVER clean that engine compartment?

Nope.

When I bought it, it was this dirty and it hasn't been on my list of things I need to do right away.

ttocs wrote:I know the amp side of the power wire is fused, but you want to fuse the power wire between the batt and the alt as well.

I've fused it in previous installs when the alternator is on the bottom of the engine and I have a longer length of cable, but I didn't feel it was as necessary here. It is a 3' run of wire that has Techflex over it and is securely fastened so I'm confident that the wire will not be grounding out.

Post by **ttocs** » Mon Aug 02, 2010 4:38 am

Well then you have done it correctly in previous installs, I always recomended a fuse holder, or a fire ext. While if you have an accident you will proably have bigger things to worry about, it is then that the wire will be grounding out and welding itself to the chassis. But then maybe the fire that this wire causes after the accident would be one of the bigger things you should be worring about.

I too am a huge fan of tech flex but I don't think the manf of it would recomend it rather then a fuse holder as it is tough stuff but not that tough.

dwnrodeo · Post by **dwnrodeo** » Mon Aug 02, 2010 5:34 am

I agree with your comments, I just didn't see adding a fuse to 3' of cable run from the alt to the battery as a huge concern due to the location of the wire. In fact, I had never even thought of it in my install planning once I saw where the alt was at.

Yes, there is always the potential of the wire being damaged in a crash, but the factory cable is equally as susceptible to damage as the one I've run.

Post by **ttocs** » Mon Aug 02, 2010 7:56 am

the factory cable has fusable links that were designed to burn off if it shorts, they wouldn't leave it unprotected.

I will not comment on it anymore as it is obvious you know what the right thing is and do not want to acknowledge it. I just hope the same way you do that you do not regret this later as $10 spent there is just cheap insurance...

dwnrodeo · Post by **dwnrodeo** » Mon Aug 02, 2010 11:05 am

Not to keep kicking a dead horse, but I was curious as to what IASCA's rules were for fusing between battery and alternator. I know this won't sway your decision, but nonetheless it is interesting information.

BATTERY WIRES FUSED 0 or 5 points
All system wires connected to any positive battery post must be fused within 18 inches (46 cm) of wire length from the battery post and/or prior to the power cable's first pass through any sheet metal or other conductive material. If there is no fuse present, or if the fusing is located more than 18 inches (46 cm) of wire length from the source, or if the power wire passes through sheet metal before fusing, the score is 0. Alternator wires do not need to be fused.
All storage capacitors are exempt from the 18 inch fuse rule but, they must have a fuse on them to isolate them from the rest of the system and/or prior to the power cable’s first pass through any sheet metal or other conductive material.

Post by **ttocs** » Mon Aug 02, 2010 12:07 pm

that supports my argument. All power wires fused with in 18 inches, that wire counts.............

Post by **smgreen20** » Mon Aug 02, 2010 1:08 pm

I can see both sides of the story.

All system wires connected to any positive battery post must be fused within 18 inches (46 cm) of wire length from the battery post ......

They contradict each other.

Alternator wires do not need to be fused.

Post by **ttocs** » Mon Aug 02, 2010 1:31 pm

ah I missed that sentence

. That is strange as they do contradict themselfs.....

12voltjunky · Post by **12voltjunky** » Mon Aug 02, 2010 5:22 pm

yes they are contradictory, but if the rule states "Alternator wires do not need to be fused." then i would highlight that statement and keep the book in hand for the judges.

Fullproof would be fuse everything, ask the judges, then remove the fuse on the alternator's + side if approved.