Broken SLD44

eulogious · Post by **eulogious** » Thu Jul 29, 2010 5:03 am

Hello all,

So I picked up a SLD44 that had the pos and neg power touch. So naturally when I plug it in, it does not turn on. I get nothing. So I tore it apart. This is where I learned something new, and wanted to verify if I was correct.

So after doing some simple probing with a DMM, I found a green "resistor" that is the first component coming directly from the pos power pin. I tested it, and I get 0L, so it's not letting anything through it. So after some research (about an hour or so), I found out that this green "resistor" is really a fuse.

Here's the replacement I found for it at mouser:

http://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/Lit ... UUWA%3D%3D

It looks exactly like that. So I think this is why it is not powering on at all. Now here's my question, can I use any axial, through hole fuse that is rated for 4amps at 125v? I don't see why I shouldn't be able to use any fuse like that, I have just never seen these fuses before.

Also does this sound right? To me it sounds like the touching of the ground and power wires caused the fuse to blow...

Thanks all!

Post by **kg1961** » Thu Jul 29, 2010 7:09 am

I cant see a problem with that. i would do it just to see if there any other problems with
I think they used it because of the size you don't want fuse bouncing around

Post by **stipud** » Thu Jul 29, 2010 7:15 am

125v? you mean 12v? or 14-16v I guess?

eulogious · Post by **eulogious** » Thu Jul 29, 2010 8:22 am

stipud wrote:125v? you mean 12v? or 14-16v I guess?

Nope 125v. Almost all "car" fuses are 125v. I also just picked up some 5a AGU fuses for some inline fuse holders and they are 125v 5a, so ya... I could be wrong, but the last 2 fuses I bought were 125v.

I have the replacements in my hand

Gotta love your local electronics wholesaler. Had to buy 5 of them though, and they weren't super cheap, but oh well. They are 125v 4a PICO II Little Fuses. Look exactly like the one in my SLD44. The iron is warming up, so I shall know soon enough if that is all that is wrong with it...

eulogious · Post by **eulogious** » Thu Jul 29, 2010 9:02 am

Sweet, it powers up! Replace the fuse with the new one, and I got a green LED. Now how do I get the signal LED to light up? I plugged in my rcas and the green LED didn't light up. Anything else I have to do? I didn't play with it too much because all I was doing was testing for power. But is there anything special I should know about with these things? I read the manual and all that.

I will go down and play with it some more here after some

and some breakfast

dwnrodeo · Post by **dwnrodeo** » Thu Jul 29, 2010 9:37 am

The signal light should come on when it's starting to clip. Play some music through the RCA's and turn up the voltage on the SLD44. It should start to light on bass notes at higher voltages.

eulogious · Post by **eulogious** » Thu Jul 29, 2010 11:10 am

That's the piece I was missing. I figured it was either that, or they lit up when there is voltage. Thanks for the info on that!

I am going to go out to my car now and look for a place to install this bad boy, and then go get some more RCA's to make this work. So at least tomorrow I should be able to wire it in and see if everything else is ok with the unit. I am thinking that it was just the fuse, since all that happened was the neg touched the pos. I will post more once I make sure the SLD44 is working!

Post by **stipud** » Thu Jul 29, 2010 11:54 am

Don't forget to install it as close to the headunit as possible, otherwise it defeats the purpose

eulogious · Post by **eulogious** » Thu Jul 29, 2010 12:34 pm

I found a spot that is less than 2' from the HU. I am going to make 3' RCA's so that I have plenty of room to play with if I decided to move everything in the future, which might happen if this carputer thing works out...