I drew a schematic of my system using the paintbrush program

jsayre914 · Post by **jsayre914** » Fri Oct 01, 2010 10:58 am

I browsed all the manuals, and cut and pasted, resized, etc. Then i connected all the dots. I thought it looked pretty cool.

whatdya think?

jsayre914 · Post by **jsayre914** » Fri Oct 01, 2010 11:00 am

I thought the remote wires (DD5) etc would make it to confusing.

oldschoolfan · Post by **oldschoolfan** » Fri Oct 01, 2010 11:04 am

It looks really cool. You forgot to hook up the outputs on the dd5. Pgr on the pld and eqx tool. Sorry, not nit picking, great looking set up.

Post by **Bfowler** » Fri Oct 01, 2010 11:16 am

one idea....power your head unit off the dd5

use the acc wire that would normally turn on the h/u as the remote on for the dd5.

this will give you a common ground, and allow easy fuse access for your h/u.

its probably not a big difference, but just and idea

jsayre914 · Post by **jsayre914** » Fri Oct 01, 2010 12:23 pm

Bfowler wrote:one idea....power your head unit off the dd5

use the acc wire that would normally turn on the h/u as the remote on for the dd5.

this will give you a common ground, and allow easy fuse access for your h/u.

its probably not a big difference, but just and idea

I already have the HU runnin off the DD5 ??
Follow the wires

Edit:

I just understood what you meant. There is no ACC wire running to my HU. It is hardwired to the constant. I was afraid of burnin up my Pertronix electronic ignition i installed into my distributor. I read a lot of horror storys about them burning when the key was left on the acc setting

jsayre914 · Post by **jsayre914** » Fri Oct 01, 2010 12:30 pm

I think thats everything. Is it still understandable?

Post by **Rold Gold** » Fri Oct 01, 2010 12:49 pm

Why would that burn it up? Can't say I've ever heard of that myself.

But why not run the HU off one of the plugs and have it fused there instead of piggy-backing it to the main of the DD5......

jsayre914 · Post by **jsayre914** » Fri Oct 01, 2010 1:05 pm

Rold Gold wrote:Why would that burn it up? Can't say I've ever heard of that myself.

But why not run the HU off one of the plugs and have it fused there instead of piggy-backing it to the main of the DD5......

With a Pertronix system,, if you leave the ignition on and the point system just happens to be closed.. the pertronix system will burn up in less than 1 minute.. bank on it. I am on my second one

Do you mean add another Fused distrobution block near the DD5??

The Batterys and the amps are in the rear trunk. The DD5 is right next to the HU up front, i figured this would be the best way. Is piggy Backing also mean (half assing) because i can change it. It just seemed to make sense to me

Thanks for the comments

Post by **ttocs** » Fri Oct 01, 2010 1:17 pm

no I think what he means is to take a +12v ignition wire and connect it to the remote INPUT on the DD5 so that it will switch on and off with the key. Now when you use one ouput for the deck, it shares the same ground as your amp and accesories. I considered doing it on my stang but didn't

jsayre914 · Post by **jsayre914** » Fri Oct 01, 2010 1:30 pm

ttocs wrote:no I think what he means is to take a +12v ignition wire and connect it to the remote INPUT on the DD5 so that it will switch on and off with the key. Now when you use one ouput for the deck, it shares the same ground as your amp and accesories. I considered doing it on my stang but didn't

Why would anybody do this? that means your amps are on all the time weather you are listening to music or not. I do drive with the music off, am i the only one lol

Post by **Rold Gold** » Fri Oct 01, 2010 2:30 pm

no no no....................

If yer not connecting it the the ignition swithed power, then how will the system be turned on? I figured that you'd probly have a toggle switch in-line on the remote from the batt to the DD5 which needs a remote to turn it on just like an amp. That means you have to run 2 wires off the battery and 1 is switched.... So no, the amps would NOT be on all the time. The way yer diagram reads, you'll be turning the system on from the HU but if yer not connecting it the the ignition the where does the HU get the remote signal from? Then you'd run the HU off one of the ACC plugs.

Post by **Rold Gold** » Fri Oct 01, 2010 2:42 pm

Like this............Sorry for the crappy pic.

holmis · Post by **holmis** » Fri Oct 01, 2010 3:01 pm

I would use a two way switch.... so you can either use ign to turn it on (Dayly use... Its a big HATE to have to use a switch all the time... ) + the option of using the system without ign

jsayre914 · Post by **jsayre914** » Fri Oct 01, 2010 3:59 pm

I was planning on having the switched and the constant from the HU Piggy Back to the Hot lead on the DD5. since that would give the HU the same power source as the 2 batteries.

since nobody likes that idea.....

i will reconcider. The reason i keep the HU hot all the time, i like to listen to music sometimes with the car off and as i stated earlier i cannot use the acc on the ignition. I will not risk it.

so my options are a switch?? why is that better again??

what is the disadvantage to my piggy back plan??

I have really liked my setup so far, i like simple. hop in the car, turn on the stereo, everything works.

wash with gasoline · Post by **wash with gasoline** » Fri Oct 01, 2010 5:43 pm

I like holmis idea of a two way switch wired to the acc on the deck. One position so the deck gets power with the key, one position where you can power the deck with the key off. Then have the remote wire from the deck turn on the dd5 so your amps are not on the whole time the car is running

I had most of my systems when i was younger wired threw a switch instead of the key. ...in wa state you can get a dui if you are sitting parked in your car drunk with the keys in the ignition listening to the radio, even if your in the pass seat

And i dont see any problem piggybacking power and ground for your deck off the dd5 if they are going to be close together, its not like your using the built in power in the deck for speakers. The amp draw should be nill

I like the diagram ...i spent a good portion of high school drawing out diagrams of all the systems i wanted

wash with gasoline · Post by **wash with gasoline** » Fri Oct 01, 2010 5:51 pm

Forgot to add...
As far as a switch being better than deck always being hot, all the head units ive had you have to either hold a button down for awhile or cycle threw sources until it shuts off. I would rather just flick a switch or turn off the ignition

And having the deck always live just makes me nervous

Post by **ttocs** » Fri Oct 01, 2010 6:21 pm

one of the better shops I worked at would run a contstant and a ground with the remote wire so that the deck could get power/ground from the same place as the amps. I did it in my stang just because I thought about it.

money-b · Post by **money-b** » Fri Oct 01, 2010 6:50 pm

illustrations look cool!

jsayre914 · Post by **jsayre914** » Fri Oct 01, 2010 7:19 pm

money-b wrote:illustrations look cool!

thanks

Post by **Rold Gold** » Fri Oct 01, 2010 7:38 pm

I'm not baggin on yer install man so please don't take it the wrong way. I too an nervous about a HU being hot all the time....... You just might have to carry a jumper-box with ya.... I've had systems like that in the past and have killed a battery TONS of times "thinking" I turned it off.......

But at the end of the day........ It's yer install and I'm just bouncing ideas.....

I really like how you made this.

jsayre914 · Post by **jsayre914** » Fri Oct 01, 2010 7:43 pm

Rold Gold wrote:I'm not baggin on yer install man so please don't take it the wrong way. I too an nervous about a HU being hot all the time....... You just might have to carry a jumper-box with ya.... I've had systems like that in the past and have killed a battery TONS of times "thinking" I turned it off.......

But at the end of the day........ It's yer install and I'm just bouncing ideas.....

I really like how you made this.

Thanks

I already have the jumper box (walmart special) i have used it many times to save complete strangers. pretty cool. I will always keep it in the car. I am not worried about the system turning off, hold the button 4 seconds ... off

The reason i posted this schematic was to get ideas just like yours.

Joseph

Post by **Bfowler** » Fri Oct 01, 2010 8:10 pm

sorry for the confusion!

the idea i had was use the "red" wire that would normally switch on you head unit. and instead use it to switch on the dd5. then you could use one if the "B+ B- R" outs on your dd5 to power your hu. nothing would stay on without the key any more then before.

and i'm not even saying you "should" do it. i was just throwing it out as idea. i rad this setup in my 97 3 series becasue i had terrible alternator noise if i didnt ground the h/u with the amps.

either way...nice work on the diagram. it looks awesome and i'm sure took some serious time!

paintguy · Post by **paintguy** » Fri Oct 01, 2010 10:37 pm

I like the illustration too. I'd probably lay it out slightly differently, with the items more closely matching their physical position within the car, but I like what you've done all the same.

I've also thought about running my HU from the DD5, but it runs a 15A fuse, so I'm not sure I should with the DD5 outputs being rated at 10 amps

Post by **ttocs** » Sat Oct 02, 2010 12:43 am

you could work this in on a trunk lid or something if you wanted. I did something simlar in my truck.