gridracer wrote:You know guys I have seen so many different vehicles come through and different guys bragging about how their brand X of deadener is better than someone elses brand X and really all I can say is its all marketing and what the customer wants to believe. You can take a 1" square piece of stick on magnet sheet from staples and stick it to the side of a bell and it will deaden the bell just as much as any car audio deadener does.
Anything you stick on metal will deaden it it's not rocket surgery it's just adding mass.
You can buy DEI boom mat spray on deadener for about $6 a can or cascade spray on deadener for $15 a can and they will both acheive what the equivalent amount of mat will do at a way cheaper price. Obviously doing a door though your not gonna get the holes all covered like a mat will.
I went to a car audio shop years ago on a vacation when the cascade stuff just came out I was probably 16 just starting my install career and saw their little display of it and bought a can just to take back to our shop and check it out. Anyway their display was 2 pepsi cans one covered one left untouched and of course the one covered in it was dead and made a thud and the other one of course still had the tinny sound if you flicked it with your finger, again you can acheive the same thing if you tape a piece of rubber on the side of a can, So for your floor I would find whatever rubber mat you can find thats cheap and flexable (hallway runner mats) and spray glue it on once the carpets on it can't move anyway and it will do just fine to deaden a floor. Double it up if you have to still cheaper.
trimtex 847 is the best spray glue I have ever seen besides buying a 5 gallon pail of glue and using a gun to spray it. I am the only installer I know of that uses trimtex 847 and the only reason I found it is because my dad is a drywaller (so I stole a can from his shop) and it is used for sticking vinyl moldings onto drywall,and at $12 a can it's not crazy priced.
For a ceiling I would probably spray it with boom mat or use a good deadener that will stick very well. For everything else use whatever you can get cheaper. Back in the day before butyl got popular I hated putting asphalt crap in peoples cars they would stink like they were working on paving a highway and left their boots in the back,didn't mind selling it to them though used to be a pretty good markup on it then,probably still is.
All I can say is I would never use an asphalt based mat in anything I drive the smell doesn't "go away" your body just gets used to it and you don't notice it after a while. For me its cheap cheap cheap and if I have to buy it well then it will be butyl,and even then I would still go to home depot and buy 200 sq.feet of blueskin basment wrap for $150 its 60 mils and butyl and about as cheap as you can find a mat for and its blue no foil.
I would agree not much dif in the mats out there ...(but the price)
what I dont agree with in the spray on shit.....that stuff dont stop road noise like the mat does(not even close)
this stuff here works on the roof and all panels 160.00 for 100 sq. ft. 80 mil thick and has lifetime warranty,no odor,foil backing, any body want to split this with me,i only need 1 of the rolls,1 roll weighs about 22 pounds for shipping and is 33.5 feet long x 18 wide ,let me know.
saying stuff like that just tells me that you have not spent much time deadoning, or more importantly trying to get rid of a deadoner that worked just as I was promised for a few months before it starts to peel off only in some areas leaving me to scrap the rest off. I have heard about all these cheap ways to do it, sand in silicone and such and all I can say is show a little pride man! Sure you can use spray adhesive or tape to hold your welcome mat inside your door if you want and it will last long enough for you to take pics/vids and show everyone that it works but is that really the way you want to go? It will only be a matter of time before your window is not able to roll down from it falling down and getting in the way but no one ever shoes those ending vids.
what else can I say I am a grumpy asshole most of the time.
tony to be honest but with out knowing what the product is you are talking about it could pertain to you too. I have grown tired of seeing people on the net find some new and amazing way to macgyver a sound deadoner out of something else and then show it off proud as a peacock. These people will tell you everything they think you want to hear but never tell you that 6 months to a year later half of it had fallen off and the other half somehow needed to be scrapped off.
I just follow my theory of do it right do it once with all forms of installation from deadoner to what ever....
what else can I say I am a grumpy asshole most of the time.
i've used dynamat for all my vehicles since 1990,i just was looking for something cost effective these days as money is harder to come by,so if anybody wants it check this out it's on ebay and they have 3 different types and it comes in smaller sizes too,peace out.
Do you have a link or brandname so i can check it out? I pulled the trigger on 36ft of damplifier pro last night, but i will end up needing more to finish my hatch area.
As far as what gridracer was saying i agree to a point, its the law of diminishing returns. If you put any kind of deadener on you are going to make a huge improvement to your car resonating. But different materials have different frequency resonances where they will not do anything.
As far as using the roofing butyl im sure it would work, but with a thick foil back on the real deadener it will trap vibrations in the butyl and force it to be absorbed sideways. And i trust a adhesive that has been used on thousands of cars with no problems over something made to lay flat on a roof
The deadening products are only meant to stop your car from making noise from vibrating, not to block road noise. Thats what mass loaded vinyl is for, its been used for soundproofing houses and studios for ever. The stuff you want ways 1 pound per square foot and is as effective as lead at blocking noise
Closed cell foam blocks some high freqencys but the reason to put it between the mass loaded vinyl and deadener is to keep the two from coupling and turning the vinyl into a mass loader for the sheet metal instead of a sound blocker
I have no problems using a product made for soundproofing a house on the car, as its doing the same thing it was designed to do. And you can usually find somewhere local to get it without paying a markup and shipping.
ttocs wrote:tony to be honest but with out knowing what the product is you are talking about it could pertain to you too. I have grown tired of seeing people on the net find some new and amazing way to macgyver a sound deadoner out of something else and then show it off proud as a peacock. These people will tell you everything they think you want to hear but never tell you that 6 months to a year later half of it had fallen off and the other half somehow needed to be scrapped off.
I just follow my theory of do it right do it once with all forms of installation from deadoner to what ever....
so your saying spray stuff stops the road noise better than mat?
or the price is what you pay for part being the same? (not a HUGE dif by any means)
not all this shit works the same for everyone...not all of us live in 115F heat
ive been at this a long time also....I might not have done as much as you but I have done my share.....
ttocs wrote:saying stuff like that just tells me that you have not spent much time deadoning, or more importantly trying to get rid of a deadoner that worked just as I was promised for a few months before it starts to peel off only in some areas leaving me to scrap the rest off. I have heard about all these cheap ways to do it, sand in silicone and such and all I can say is show a little pride man! Sure you can use spray adhesive or tape to hold your welcome mat inside your door if you want and it will last long enough for you to take pics/vids and show everyone that it works but is that really the way you want to go? It will only be a matter of time before your window is not able to roll down from it falling down and getting in the way but no one ever shoes those ending vids.
Nowhere did I say to use floor mats on a door? I said use it on a floor and double it up if you have to and said what kind of spray glue I use as it is the best I have ever seen,for a floor runner mats will do just fine and never move. If you read my whole post you would see I said to use a proper mat for a ceiling and I would use a butyl mat for anything else if I had to,but it still would be basement blueskin 60 mils. for the price of it you can double that up to and still be cheaper than SS or brand x and have added more mass.
Check my buyer/seller ratings http://phoenixphorum.com/gridracer-vt4548.html
I had an offer last night to trade my 91 lowered jimmy with the efi 350 for a 2008 polaris iq turbo sled,if I don't accept that trade when I do my install in it that has been planned for a while I willl do the deadening with the methods and products I talked about. and post pics before and after.
If I do the trade 1. I will add deadening to my 06 canyon when I do it,and 2. I will have lots of gear ( M100's and XS 12's) to sell that is waiting for the jimmy.
Check my buyer/seller ratings http://phoenixphorum.com/gridracer-vt4548.html
........... Not sure where you got that from so how about we just say I agree 
?