Blown RSd Tweet :(

Phoenixcolt · Post by **Phoenixcolt** » Fri May 18, 2007 10:35 am

Im so bummed, I only had these in for a month and a half and my tweet just blew...I used to blow a lot of tweets with an eq15 when I was young and stupid : ) but all I am using is the deck parametric and the deck crossovers these days so I can't believe this.

Only on the right side went.

I have them running active so I wonder what my tweeter wattage was at.

How can I confirm that my tweeters are only seeing 10 watts, I thought I had it set right but this should not have blown if it was set right.? I was just thinking about it and I can't set them using the DMM formula bc they won't play 60 hz.

What else could have caused this? If the pos and negs weren't taped up enough and they hit metal could that do it, like short them out? If water seeped into a butt connector could that do it?

I already have an RA from Phil but I still would like to make sure this doesn't happen again...

Does this look like a burn mark or just glue:

Post by **Bfowler** » Fri May 18, 2007 11:32 am

damn dude suck ass....i have no idea about active setups, but I'm sure someone will chime in soon

Post by **mr tibbs** » Fri May 18, 2007 4:44 pm

Correct me if I'm wrong, but when setting your gains with a DMM I believe that you don't have the speakers pluged in. Thus the tweets don't have to play at 60hz, in fact if you have the active x-over set right they should never see 60hz.

So, now I'm not even sure how you would set the gains on you tweets, in fact how the hell did I set the gains on my tweets?? Great, now we're all confused!!

My head hurts.

Thumper88 · Post by **Thumper88** » Fri May 18, 2007 5:14 pm

Ah, well, you would use a higher frequency to set the gains for the tweeter....

It just won't be quite as accurate with a regular DMM, unless you are using a True RMS DMM.

Post by **bdubs767** » Fri May 18, 2007 5:47 pm

I've done most of the gain setting by ear for active set ups. Im usually to lazy to use the DMM, and it;s not perfect so not worth it to me. Once I get an O-scope Ill only use that.

COLT what I would do is use a PINK noise track if you dont have higher test tones to set it w/ a DMM around 10 watts. It wont be perfect but it will get you close, then do fine tunning of the gain by ear.

What did you have the P EQs set too? Xover point? Slope?

Also use the Passive first before going active, it will give you reference point for tunning.

Phoenixcolt · Post by **Phoenixcolt** » Sat May 19, 2007 9:47 am

bdubs767 wrote:I've done most of the gain setting by ear for active set ups. Im usually to lazy to use the DMM, and it;s not perfect so not worth it to me. Once I get an O-scope Ill only use that.

COLT what I would do is use a PINK noise track if you dont have higher test tones to set it w/ a DMM around 10 watts. It wont be perfect but it will get you close, then do fine tunning of the gain by ear.

What did you have the P EQs set too? Xover point? Slope?

Also use the Passive first before going active, it will give you reference point for tunning.

The PEQ is set to 4000 +2db, the stock setting for the slope is 12 db per octave which I have left that way and the crossover is high passed at 3200 per Errin.

Can someone explain to me briefly exactly what that slope means? Since it was set to 12 stock I thought it would be safe to leave it there, my other options are 6 and 18.

Post by **bdubs767** » Sat May 19, 2007 11:40 am

Phoenixcolt wrote:
bdubs767 wrote:I've done most of the gain setting by ear for active set ups. Im usually to lazy to use the DMM, and it;s not perfect so not worth it to me. Once I get an O-scope Ill only use that.

COLT what I would do is use a PINK noise track if you dont have higher test tones to set it w/ a DMM around 10 watts. It wont be perfect but it will get you close, then do fine tunning of the gain by ear.

What did you have the P EQs set too? Xover point? Slope?

Also use the Passive first before going active, it will give you reference point for tunning.
The PEQ is set to 4000 +2db, the stock setting for the slope is 12 db per octave which I have left that way and the crossover is high passed at 3200 per Errin.

Can someone explain to me briefly exactly what that slope means? Since it was set to 12 stock I thought it would be safe to leave it there, my other options are 6 and 18.

The slope means at the next octave of xover point the signal will be what ever DB it is set to less.

For example your 3200hz HP @ 12db means that at 1600hz the signal will be -12db that of the original xover point.

Post by **smgreen20** » Sun May 20, 2007 9:02 am

Technicaly, TECHNICLY, it'd be -15dB at 1600Hz, as the xover point is where it's -3dB. Example, at 3200Hz (the xover point) you're allready -3dB.