Power Wire

HifiDon · Post by **HifiDon** » Sat Feb 12, 2011 9:52 am

ttocs wrote:if they bought it from a store that would mean they would almost have to pay retail?

Posted another thread, not to hi-jack this one..

Phoenixcolt · Post by **Phoenixcolt** » Sat Feb 12, 2011 9:57 am

HifiDon wrote: The most common was they ran a piece of insulation in the MIDDLE of the copper to make the copper SEEM bigger... To the regular eye, it was alot of copper...This was by far the best sample wire I had collected! But it also said "AWG" on the box. Of course these were china kits & didn't seem to care, just wanted to rip customers off...

The Monster 1/0 I had had at least a 1/8" or 3/32" piece of insulation/plastic running through it. It was crazy thick overall but that plastic running through it was a little strange I thought.

HifiDon · Post by **HifiDon** » Sat Feb 12, 2011 10:00 am

Phoenixcolt wrote:
HifiDon wrote: The most common was they ran a piece of insulation in the MIDDLE of the copper to make the copper SEEM bigger... To the regular eye, it was alot of copper...This was by far the best sample wire I had collected! But it also said "AWG" on the box. Of course these were china kits & didn't seem to care, just wanted to rip customers off...
The Monster 1/0 I had had at least a 1/8" or 3/32" piece of insulation/plastic running through it. It was crazy thick overall but that plastic running through it was a little strange I thought.

Why would they put it in their? I have NEVER found a reason except to bypass the AWG code..

. And this was MONSTER Cable!! Not a "Pyramid" amp kit...

Post by **ttocs** » Sat Feb 12, 2011 10:01 am

skin effect I thought......

Post by **Bfowler** » Sat Feb 12, 2011 10:09 am

yeah, it was supposed to create more surface area, and make the cable more flexible. i still have some. its not supposed to get around guage standards, it is WAY larger then normal cable of the same gauge. it may be pointless, but its not subpar either.

the worst part is finding rings and terminals it fits in properly

Phoenixcolt · Post by **Phoenixcolt** » Sat Feb 12, 2011 10:14 am

Bfowler wrote:yeah, it was supposed to create more surface area, and make the cable more flexible. i still have some. its not supposed to get around guage standards, it is WAY larger then normal cable of the same gauge. it may be pointless, but its not subpar either.

the worst part is finding rings and terminals it fits in properly

You're telling me!!!

And yes, it is way larger and it was a huge pita to find accesories that worked with it....haha, as a matter of fact, for my main ground I had to separate the end of the wire and force the ends into two 4 gauge ring terminals at one point.

Phoenixcolt · Post by **Phoenixcolt** » Wed Feb 23, 2011 7:18 pm

kg1961 wrote:they look the same other than the fuses but if your going to run a x200.4 and a x1200.1 you will need zero gauge, not 4g they each need 4 gauge so 2 or 0 gauge is needed
very nice amps love them both let me know if you ever sell them
mike

Sup guys, I wanted to resurrect this thread because I had some more questions. Let me know if you think I should start the next couple questions as a new thread.

This is my spring project but since it is around the corner, I am trying to figure out what I still need to pick up to be totally ready.

I will be going 1/0 for the big 3 and from the main battery back to the trunk (Let me know if you know a good place to get quality 1/0 at a good price, I am guessing I will need 35'-50').

I think I will be upgrading the main battery to a Stinger SPP1500D. I will be using the stock 90 amp alternator.

Running the X1200.1 at 1000 watts, and the X200.4 at about 500 watts, do you guys think I will need more than the main battery upgrade? The wattage that the SPP1500D is recommended for is 3000 watts. I am not planning on using a cap. The recommended fuse sizes are 100A for the 1200.1 and 120A for 200.4.

I was initially thinking it might be a good idea to add an SPP925 to the trunk, but I don't think I will need it for the wattage I am planning so I would rather save the money for now unless I really need that additional battery.

Hope you guys can help since a lot of you have more Xenon experience than me.

Post by **ttocs** » Wed Feb 23, 2011 7:48 pm

I know some people have no problem putting a 2nd battery on a stock alt but I would never recomend putting that load on such a small alt. I would put the money into a better alt before a 2nd battery.

Stryker · Post by **Stryker** » Wed Feb 23, 2011 9:38 pm

If the big 3 are done properly you will be fine with the Stinger battery up front and a stock Alt.
Of course more is always better but if you wanna save the money don't worry about getting an extra battery,
sink that money into a good alternator that is rated hot at around 240amps, then you won't need 2 battery's

Phoenixcolt · Post by **Phoenixcolt** » Wed Feb 23, 2011 10:13 pm

Stryker wrote:If the big 3 are done properly you will be fine with the Stinger battery up front and a stock Alt.
Of course more is always better but if you wanna save the money don't worry about getting an extra battery,
sink that money into a good alternator that is rated hot at around 240amps, then you won't need 2 battery's

Thanks for the input, I did find a direct swap 160A alternator for about the same price as that Stinger battery will cost, stock is 90A, but I would rather avoid engine work if I can get away with the big 3 and the one powerful battery at this point. Then down the road I can think about a more serious alternator if I make some bigger system changes.

Post by **stipud** » Thu Feb 24, 2011 11:59 am

Phoenixcolt wrote:Thanks for the input, I did find a direct swap 160A alternator for about the same price as that Stinger battery will cost, stock is 90A, but I would rather avoid engine work if I can get away with the big 3 and the one powerful battery at this point. Then down the road I can think about a more serious alternator if I make some bigger system changes.

Cost for cost I would personally rather have an alternator. Not sure about your particular car but usually they are not hard to swap.

Phoenixcolt · Post by **Phoenixcolt** » Thu Feb 24, 2011 8:08 pm

stipud wrote:
Phoenixcolt wrote:Thanks for the input, I did find a direct swap 160A alternator for about the same price as that Stinger battery will cost, stock is 90A, but I would rather avoid engine work if I can get away with the big 3 and the one powerful battery at this point. Then down the road I can think about a more serious alternator if I make some bigger system changes.
Cost for cost I would personally rather have an alternator. Not sure about your particular car but usually they are not hard to swap.

I kind of agree but I had such a god awful experience with a Stinger alternator that didn't fit in the Colt properly even though Stinger said it was supposed to that I am a little scared to start playing with alternators again.

I will do a little more research to see what is involved in the install and confirm it is a DIRECT swap.

If I upgrade the alternator to a 160A, will I be ok with the stock battery and 1/0 power wire? The alternator, if it is a direct swap and easy install, would be the best bang for my 300 bucks.

Phoenixcolt · Post by **Phoenixcolt** » Fri Feb 25, 2011 8:53 am

The 160A Maniac Electric Motors alternator is a direct fit for my Rex, which is awesome.

So Big 3, 1/0 to trunk, Stock Battery, and 160A alternator is the plan.

Post by **stipud** » Fri Feb 25, 2011 9:24 am

Sounds good to me. The battery can be upgraded next time it dies

Phoenixcolt · Post by **Phoenixcolt** » Fri Feb 25, 2011 9:25 am

Agreed : ).

Post by **ttocs** » Fri Feb 25, 2011 9:37 am

that setup will do 10x better then an extra battery would..... 1/0 will be perfectf or it. There is some pg 1/0 wire on the for sale section currently.

Phoenixcolt · Post by **Phoenixcolt** » Fri Feb 25, 2011 10:56 am

ttocs wrote:that setup will do 10x better then an extra battery would..... 1/0 will be perfectf or it. There is some pg 1/0 wire on the for sale section currently.

Heck yeah, I am happier about this setup, I was all bummed because I thought I was going to need to spend 500 on batteries.

Actually waiting to hear back on that 1/0 right now : ).

tonym · Post by **tonym** » Sat Feb 26, 2011 6:47 am

Kolossus Fleks Kable 1/0 Blue Power/Ground Wire

wire is great....what else is there to say....

Post by **ttocs** » Sat Feb 26, 2011 8:09 am

the pg wire is a true OFC copper where the knu wire is a aluminum clad wire, the ofc can handle more power.

tonym · Post by **tonym** » Sat Feb 26, 2011 8:31 am

ttocs wrote:the pg wire is a true OFC copper where the knu wire is a aluminum clad wire, the ofc can handle more power.

the knu is a bigger wire....and not that it changes much but... its tinned not aluminum...

Post by **Bfowler** » Sat Feb 26, 2011 9:14 am

ttocs wrote:the pg wire is a true OFC copper where the knu wire is a aluminum clad wire, the ofc can handle more power.

knu has 3 lines of cable, the Kolossus flex is OFC, and i'm pretty sure the same OEM stinger, PG, kicker etc all use for thier high end cable.

the other 2 lines are the CCA

Phoenixcolt · Post by **Phoenixcolt** » Fri Mar 04, 2011 5:59 am

Phoenixcolt wrote:The 160A Maniac Electric Motors alternator is a direct fit for my Rex, which is awesome.

So Big 3, 1/0 to trunk, Stock Battery, and 160A alternator is the plan.

Is it normal that this 160A alternator will idle at 75-80A and reach peak output of 160A at about 2000 rpm? Maybe that is how stock alternators are too. I think it will be ok, but just noticed this today. Obviously most of the time I will be driving the car and at 2000 rpm or above, but I do most of my tuning at idle.

I am hoping the voltage stays the same as well so I don't have to worry about any of the deep wiring in the dash or anything.

Post by **ttocs** » Fri Mar 04, 2011 7:30 am

no alt that I know of will make much current at idle, even less if you are running underdrive pullies( a common mod on mustangs). This means you might still have some dimming at idle and need to turn it down a little bit.

Post by **stipud** » Fri Mar 04, 2011 8:13 am

Getting an externally regulated alternator will improve the idle amperage, but yeah it is definitely normal for it to be lower.

Power Wire

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