i have a octain R 15.0.1that is smoking

thesteve151 · Post by **thesteve151** » Thu Jun 14, 2007 7:05 pm

long story short my amp started smoking, because it overheated, and now i need to fix it. it works, but only on very low loads, anything else and it will smoke.

i took it apart and can see what part is the one smoking, and i need advice on where to get a replacement part. i have plenty of soldering experience, just need to get the part.

i will post pics tonight or tomorrow, but i will describe the parts now. i need the 2 red rectangle things in the middle on the board, and the small cap that sits right next to them.

any links with the names would be helpfully, and a site to order from would be even better. thanks

Mastiff · Post by **Mastiff** » Thu Jun 14, 2007 8:24 pm

cecil calling cecil ....... or just buy a new one

thesteve151 · Post by **thesteve151** » Thu Jun 14, 2007 8:34 pm

i would just buy a new one but if i can fix it myself for under $50 i will.
plus a new amp is around $600 and i just can't afford that right now.

what is "cecil calling cecil" ?

Post by **fuzzysnuggleduck** » Thu Jun 14, 2007 8:37 pm

Cecil AKA onemoreamp is one of our local gurus when it comes to repairing and working with electronics.

Mastiff · Post by **Mastiff** » Thu Jun 14, 2007 9:25 pm

thesteve151 wrote:i would just buy a new one but if i can fix it myself for under $50 i will.
plus a new amp is around $600 and i just can't afford that right now.

what is "cecil calling cecil" ?

http://cgi.ebay.com/NEW-Phoenix-Gold-R1 ... dZViewItem

1moreamp · Post by **1moreamp** » Thu Jun 14, 2007 10:25 pm

Sorry guys I was at a late supper with some friends from AMD.

Those red rectangular things sound like bypass metal film capacitors no biggy BUT they are a "Symptom" of the problem so just replacing them will probably not complete the repair.

They sound like they are under a abnormal loading condition <probably switching noise>, and the other cap is a electrolytic, and its probably cooking inside, and hot to the touch.

Pics help, but if I remember correctly this is just like the older Hifonics Hercules series XI. I own two or three of these that I retrieved from a customer that was dumpstering them. I got two running off of the third ones parts VIOLA Free amps

Yeah they are exactly the same amp inside HIP-4080 Fet driver, RFP70N06 mosfet outputs in a full bridge config, and a beefy ass power supply thats using IRFP64N mosfets. Uses a Harris CA4570 high speed op-amp < hard to find part<<<.

Other than that piece of cake. You know PG has a flat rate on that of $150.00 shipped back to you, See here>>>

http://www.phoenixgold.com/2004/flatrate.html

So for shipping to them plus $150.00 your amp is fixed and back to you from them. So $600.00 is not in the picture.

I can work on it too, just LMK.

Thanks guys for the referral C

thesteve151 · Post by **thesteve151** » Fri Jun 15, 2007 12:54 am

ya i bought the amp original off of ebay, for $200, but that was back when i had a smaller eclipse sub, now i have a treo ssi 10.44 with 750watts rms, and if i were to get a new amp it would have to be bigger, i have had my eye on this one http://www.speedsound.com/product.asp?s ... =jooohpfng
it is $600 in town with a 3 year warranty.

found it on ebay for $300 http://cgi.ebay.com/PHOENIX-GOLD-RSD-12 ... dZViewItem
would this be a good amp if i end up buying a new one?

i still want to fix mine if i can find the parts, i will have the pics today when i wake up.

i appreciate the help allot.
what would be the best place online to buy an amp, and what would be the best PG mono block 4omh amp?

Post by **Bfowler** » Fri Jun 15, 2007 7:56 am

the rsd is superior amp all across the board then the octane-r, but you/we should figure out what caused your amp to fry to begin with before you invest in some new gear

the best PG mono 4ohm amp would be the xenon 600.1 or 1200.1 (the 600.1 is more over built for its rated power, but the 1200.1 has more overall power) fwiw the 600.1 puts out ~800@4ohms becasue of this.

Post by **VW337** » Fri Jun 15, 2007 8:49 am

Thanks for the bump Fowler......

If you can not get you amp fixed I have a BNIB X600.1 which as stated is just over 800 watts at 4 ohms.

thesteve151 · Post by **thesteve151** » Fri Jun 15, 2007 10:27 am

ok got the pics,

sorry about the blurry pics, the camera dose not focus close up

1moreamp · Post by **1moreamp** » Fri Jun 15, 2007 11:11 am

Dude, your output filters for the D class output stage are shorted and melted.,
STOP using the amp get it fixed !!!!!!!! They got blasted from you overdriving the amp, or they just failed due to stress. They need to be replaced right away NOW !

Stop beating the horse

You will burn up your voice coils running it like this ... SAVE YOUR SPEAKER

Without these caps your voice coils are exposed to the switching signals of the D amp... I smell toasted voice coils mang !!!

thesteve151 · Post by **thesteve151** » Fri Jun 15, 2007 11:13 am

i stopped using it when it started smoking, i tested it once after that to see if it still worked, and i haven't used it since.
where can i get the parts?

thesteve151 · Post by **thesteve151** » Fri Jun 15, 2007 11:42 am

looking at it closer it looks like the board its self has some damage from the heat. it is bubbled up in some spots. i think i will just save up $300 and just buy a new amp

i do have one i can use in the meantime though. it is a 4 channel kenwood KAC-8402 it has 180 watts rms X 2 but i would need to somehow bridge the 2 connections together. would i be able to just connect them together?
the amp is essentially two 180 watt amps that i need to connect together. what would be the best way?

here is the amp
http://www.crutchfield.com/S-Vz160MOoEs ... 113KAC8402

Post by **Bfowler** » Fri Jun 15, 2007 12:03 pm

if the sub is a duel 4 ohm sub you will be in good shape. you can run each coil to a bridged channel.

if ou have a duel 2 you can only run one side bridged

thesteve151 · Post by **thesteve151** » Fri Jun 15, 2007 12:05 pm

ok i looked at it again, and the bubbles were just build up of something. well i have a list of what i want, i just need to find a place to order it from.
here are some more pics after i removed the blown output filter (i guess that is what it is called)

'

i need everything that is circled it is 4 different items, i need 2 of each, for a total of 8 thinks i have to replace.

Post by **VW337** » Fri Jun 15, 2007 2:31 pm

mouser.com

digikey.com

1moreamp · Post by **1moreamp** » Fri Jun 15, 2007 3:34 pm

Those two ceramic resistors have seen better days. Try and shot me some part numbers and i will check my crib notes and try to get those values for you. You don't need everything circled, but you do need to clean up the mess.
I would suggest you write don't all the info on the splattered parts and then clean up with acetone . yeah cetone will do it and its cheap, and available. BE CAREFUL not to wipe off all the part info as the acetone will stick the plastic wrappers and markings on most components < caps and such>.

The board needs to be clean before you make a clear judgment call on rebuild-ability. If there are any numbers left on the circuit board shot them to me in a PM and i will do my best to ID them for you.

Happy friday mang !

1moreamp · Post by **1moreamp** » Fri Jun 15, 2007 9:05 pm

The two resistors are: 4.7 kohm 2 watt ceramics. They also might still be good after you clean up the mess.

Now the caps are a different matter one of the two Orange caps is still intact take the numbers off of the intact one and I will decode for you.

The big electrolytic's < black ones> are 3300 ufd at 63 volt I believe, you should be able to look closely and read them to.

The two little Orange caps just look flashed nothing more try cleaning them.

I still think theres something else wrong, and this might just be a symptom of a hidden issue.
But give it a shot and let me know. The big caps are expensive, the orange caps run a couple bucks each and up. The resistors are about a buck seventy nine or so a set from NTE. Looks like $30.00 of parts depending on your source or supply.

C

thesteve151 · Post by **thesteve151** » Sat Jun 16, 2007 2:47 pm

ya the small orange ones seem to be ok and also the big black cylinders seem to be ok, but i do need the red rectangle ones. one is completely gone the other looks good, but i am not taking any chances, and the 2 small resistors, look like there in bad shape, and the solder for them on the other side of the board looks bad also so i will replace them. i will get some part numbers tonight when i get home from work. and post them up and PM.

i will also post a pic of the back of the board.

1moreamp · Post by **1moreamp** » Sat Jun 16, 2007 3:21 pm

IF The circuit board has burned then your in a world of hurt. The burned areas may have become conductive. If so then all new parts won't fix the circuit board being shorted on itself... Shame if it has. As this unit mimics the Hifonics Hercules component wise its a better built amp then the lessor Hifonics hecules XI series amp

Post by **smgreen20** » Sat Jun 16, 2007 8:26 pm

The TREO he has is the exact same I used to have. It's dual 4 ohm coils, hence the 10. >44, so it's either 2 or 8 ohms. I don't know that I'd personaly go w/the RDS1200.1 amp for that sub. You can, but be VERY careful w/the gain.

That sub will take a bit over the 750 wrms to no more than 900 wrms AS LONG AS it's clean power.

I'd personaly go w/one of the higher output X600.1s in the 800ish watt range. At 2 ohms that would be a perfect match.

I traded the store even for a SSi12.22 wired in series and set for 800 wrms on the PG ZPA0.5. If I ever choose to get another SSi12.22 I'll wire it up for a final 2 ohm load and do the mod to the 0.5, but that's a ways away.

thesteve151 · Post by **thesteve151** » Sun Jun 17, 2007 1:11 am

the board looks ok i will clean it up tomorrow and post pics it is late at night and i dont feel like doing much right now.

the #'s on the red rectangle are: ME followed by 565KS right above 250F7

the ME is bigger than the other #'s and in front of both of them.
i also need the 2 caps i can see the metal wires in them.

1moreamp · Post by **1moreamp** » Sun Jun 17, 2007 8:23 am

thesteve151 wrote:the board looks ok i will clean it up tomorrow and post pics it is late at night and i dont feel like doing much right now.

the #'s on the red rectangle are: ME followed by 565KS right above 250F7

the ME is bigger than the other #'s and in front of both of them.
i also need the 2 caps i can see the metal wires in them.

5.6 microfarad 250 volt Metal film capacitor

"i also need the 2 caps i can see the metal wires in them." < which ones ? please be more specific THX C

thesteve151 · Post by **thesteve151** » Sun Jun 17, 2007 12:43 pm

the 2 small ones right in the middle of everything, if you look at the picture with the read circles. they are to the left of the 2 red Metal film capacitors.

1moreamp · Post by **1moreamp** » Sun Jun 17, 2007 1:30 pm

thesteve151 wrote:the 2 small ones right in the middle of everything, if you look at the picture with the read circles. they are to the left of the 2 red Metal film capacitors.

Any numbers left on them ???

There either 0,47 ufd or 0,33 ufd and about 250 volt from there size