Today I bought a ZPA !

[chaplin]

Ne prends vraiment pas de risque et change les condensateurs avant d'installer ceux-ci. Si un condensateur a un défaut, il va abimer ton circuit et dans bien des cas c'est difficile, voir impossible à réparer par la suite... Les condensateurs ont entre 15 et 20 ans, il est normal de devoir les changer (faire un "entretien" de ton ampli pour en prolonger la durée de vie)

Bonne écoute!

[nutxo]

Does not really take risks and change the capacitors before installing them. If a capacitor has a defect, it is damaging your circuit and in many cases it is difficult or impossible to fix later ... The condensteurs are between 15 and 20 years, it is normal to have to change (to a "maintenance" of your amp pouren prolong life)

Enjoy!

[freshkryp69]

I have taken all advice STROKD !!!!

merci itchnertamatoa c'est ce que je compte faire justement

The new style of Panasonic FC series will work great and last way longer than most others. and they are only about $2.50 each from digikey or ebay..I used the 8200uf @ 105c in my zpa's, and in most of the amps i now own..You can use the same caps for you ms275 & ms2125 aswell..

[STROKD]

I have taken all advice STROKD !!!!

merci itchnertamatoa c'est ce que je compte faire justement

The new style of Panasonic FC series will work great and last way longer than most others. and they are only about $2.50 each from digikey or ebay..I used the 8200uf @ 105c in my zpa's, and in most of the amps i now own..You can use the same caps for you ms275 & ms2125 aswell..

I just shipped my other 2 to Eric today, I found the dyno or spec sheet of the one that blew up and it was built in 1996... So, yea I guess at 16 years the caps were spent, even if they only played for maybe 8-10 of them during that time. I bought the amp in 1999 (found receipt), so it had a good life. It's twin caught fire years ago due to metal flake from my paint job being in the amps... that was a CRAZY flame...

So I have a like new one already re-capped, and a replacement one from 99-00 according to the box getting recapped.

The caps are no joke, I dunno if I would have ever gone PG back in day had I known this crap. My Orions or Alpines didnt blow up due to caps...

[Mr. Wild]

Think of it ths way. The bad rep old PG amps have due to caps blowing up makes them more affordable for us true PG users who know how to fix the problem

[ttocs]

metal flake inside the amp?

[unbreakabledancer777]

Hi, I have received it but I would like to know your feedback before to tell you my opinion about it

[trickyricky]

Regarding the amplifier above (pics) it looks like its seen moisture before, enought to rust certain parts/components. The pots may still work properly you just have to de-ox it/clean them. As far as the caps, replace all of them (electrolytic).

[zeropoint0.5]

I'll try to help him out with it the moment he jumps in his car and drives with the amp to me !!

the pics are like on the ebay auction, so that's what it is.... repowdercoated or painted it will look like new for sure. that is not the point.

a broken or mint plexi has nothing to do with the working condition. both gains and switch can be replaced.... my guess the only interesting

thing is, why are two ps caps replaced and not all twelve ???? I quess we will find the answer when we open up the amp...... my thought is, two caps

have maybe shortened and were replaced. if there is damage to the board we will found out.....

In the ebay discription is written

PHOENIX GOLD OLD SKOOL ZPA 0.5 2CH AMP IN PRETTY GOOD CONDITION. THERE ARE FEW SMALL SCRATCHES AND DINGS FROM NORMAL USE. ALSO, FEW RUST ON THE SIDE BOTTOM. ONE CORNER OF THE TOP PLEXI COVER WHERE SCREW GOES IS CRACKED. A SMALL BENT ON ONE SIDE OF THE VENTS. SPECS ARE: 300WRMS X 2 @ 4OHM, 500WRMS X 2@ 2OHM AND 1,000WRMS X 1 1 OR 4OHM BRIDGED, I THINK RATED AT 13.8V. PLEASE ASK ANY QUESTIONS THAT YOU MAY HAVE. WHAT YOU SEE IN THE PICTURES ARE WHAT YOU WILL GET. GUARANTEED TO WORK!!! FREE SHIPPING LOWER 48 STATES

So in fact, even with the original caps in it, we should have to connect it and it should have to power up and play normal !!! If it doesn't he can make a claim

on ebay to be refunded and send the amp back.... If first replacing the caps, the amp doensn't power up and then make a claim, is getting more difficult.

i will first open it up, and them decide with him what to do.....

[kg1961]

the cap look like they are leaking to me. maybe just dirty but you turn the amp on and fry it because of the cap you might have a hard time to prove it was the seller fault the amp look like the discription to me
i would still change the caps as the rest of the amp looks ok you might need to change some other parts ect but it better to be able to work on it than being stuck with a burnt hole in the bottom. the amp look well used its also 13 years old
just saying

test the caps put a small pcs of paper under each cap to see if it get wet if so DO NOT POWER THE AMP up
if not than its still a 50-50 chance

[zeropoint0.5]

If there is not already a burned whole under those two replaced caps......

I invited him to come along, when i open the amp up i quess we already see how late it will be......

Personnally i bought an outlaw this week. glad i could collect in person, but after a visually look i decided not to

connect it cause i already saw two caps leaking..... i will here also first change the caps and then power it up.....

the bandit i got with it for free had unfortunatly the caps shortened. hopefully i can repair the corner of that board also.....

i quess in this zpa situation to think positive, and when the 12 ps caps, both gains and switch have been replaced; the amp

will be fine again..... I just hope i can help this person out with it.

[freshkryp69]

Doing caps is pretty easy, get a cheap iron do all the caps, cost about 50 or so from digikey for rails and PS caps. A plus is, it makes it a better more reliable amp. ZPA's are badass amps!

[zeropoint0.5]

@Fresh

In a former zpa topic you stated you replace the power supply fets, the irfz44 by the better irfz48 models......

Can you maybe give a link of it on digikey/mouser, i will take a look, cause i did two weeks ago a simular change

on a non working zpa0.5 with a blown up power supply..... If you can give maybe more comment about it and the

better results to do, i would love to hear it..... will it really make a big change and is this especially when you're going

to push the amp hard on a subwoofer or also in a speaker situation ? The power supply fets are the weak point of the

zpa, aren't they ?? I'd love to hear your opinions/thoughts.......


About this topic/amp.... let's hope we can bring it back to life..... let's think positive.....

[unbreakabledancer777]

HE IS ALIVE !!!!

zeropoint0.5 has made a great job on it and now this zpa works perfectly and he was at the doors of hell just before his reanimation

the caps were leaking.

this man is a great guy... and a good doctor

[Mr. Wild]

Zeropoints are the sexiest amps ever. They are like Ferraris. They look sexy as hell, spend a lot of time in the shop, but when they work they tear away like nobodys business.

[unbreakabledancer777]

Is it possible to find these things?

[ttocs]

sure ebay or valeks has them.

[freshkryp69]

@Fresh

In a former zpa topic you stated you replace the power supply fets, the irfz44 by the better irfz48 models......

Can you maybe give a link of it on digikey/mouser, i will take a look, cause i did two weeks ago a simular change

on a non working zpa0.5 with a blown up power supply..... If you can give maybe more comment about it and the

better results to do, i would love to hear it..... will it really make a big change and is this especially when you're going

to push the amp hard on a subwoofer or also in a speaker situation ? The power supply fets are the weak point of the

zpa, aren't they ?? I'd love to hear your opinions/thoughts.......



About this topic/amp.... let's hope we can bring it back to life..... let's think positive.....

The ((((#1 killer)))) of the ZPA is to low of B+ voltage and a shitty ground path. Volt sags during bass lines, then its magnified by a improperly installed system/amp. So, to sort of speak buy insurance that the ZPA will not fry when you have to low of B+ voltage is to replace the "irfz44n" with a higher amp "irfz48n". It makes the power supply able to deal with this situation and less prone to damage, when B+ voltage goes down, the current draw will go up and quickly exceed the amp rating on the irfz44n fets.

Just type irfz48n into google and take your pick. I bought a bag of 50 a couple yrs back on fleebay for around 48 bucks.

[unbreakabledancer777]

sure ebay or valeks has them.

I haven't seen them maybe cause I' m not able to find what word can I put on the searching.

Do you have a link for helping me to buy that?

thank you

[zeropoint0.5]

@Fresh

In a former zpa topic you stated you replace the power supply fets, the irfz44 by the better irfz48 models......

Can you maybe give a link of it on digikey/mouser, i will take a look, cause i did two weeks ago a simular change

on a non working zpa0.5 with a blown up power supply..... If you can give maybe more comment about it and the

better results to do, i would love to hear it..... will it really make a big change and is this especially when you're going

to push the amp hard on a subwoofer or also in a speaker situation ? The power supply fets are the weak point of the

zpa, aren't they ?? I'd love to hear your opinions/thoughts.......



About this topic/amp.... let's hope we can bring it back to life..... let's think positive.....

The ((((#1 killer)))) of the ZPA is to low of B+ voltage and a shitty ground path. Volt sags during bass lines, then its magnified by a improperly installed system/amp. So, to sort of speak buy insurance that the ZPA will not fry when you have to low of B+ voltage is to replace the "irfz44n" with a higher amp "irfz48n". It makes the power supply able to deal with this situation and less prone to damage, when B+ voltage goes down, the current draw will go up and quickly exceed the amp rating on the irfz44n fets.

Just type irfz48n into google and take your pick. I bought a bag of 50 a couple yrs back on fleebay for around 48 bucks.

I have used them already one time to fix a blown up powersupply of a non working 0.5 with a positive result......But i asked you the question,

i will always listen to other peoples advice and experience. It can save at least maybe one amp from frying !!!! I will not change them now in

all my 0.5's, cause i will only use them for SQ on speakers and will use a powersupply that will normally be way over enough.....And i will not

make the "mod" on any amp..... Anyway, i appreciate your responce. i'm going to end with also a very interesting idea, off all my 0.5's, i replaced

R35 and R36 with a 5W resistor, of course same value and about half an inch away from the daugherboard...... works much reliable......

[freshkryp69]

@Fresh



i will always listen to other peoples advice and experience. It can save at least maybe one amp from frying !!!! I will not change them now in

all my 0.5's, cause i will only use them for SQ on speakers and will use a powersupply that will normally be way over enough.....And i will not make the "mod" on any amp.....

Why not, it cant hurt, maybe also, PG got ahold of some bad batches of the IRFZ44n's?? Maybe also the newest FET out these days will have better performance characteristics?? you say you will use a "power supply" , is this amp not being used in a car?


Anyway, i appreciate your responce. i'm going to end with also a very interesting idea, off all my 0.5's, i replaced

R35 and R36 with a 5W resistor, of course same value and about half an inch away from the daugherboard...... works much reliable......

Do you have a pic to show us??

[zeropoint0.5]

I can upload pics, but have to resize them first.... i'll see what i can do.

If you email me at paul.tavernier@telenet.be, i can reply you directly with the pics....

Paul

[zeropoint0.5]

I tried to resize the pics i recently took of one my 0.5'sV2.....

So.... that worked..... this is what i talk about..... it has been done in all my 0.5's (V1 and V2 versions)

I do a simular modification in the M series also.....the 3W out, a 5W, same value and away from the board

in it's place.... this is a descision i haven't regret yet !!!. I have some of my amps of course with an already

discolored daughterboard, cause i bought them that way..... especially the V1's... but i don't have to explain that

because who knows the zpa's know that much much better than me i quess....

[unbreakabledancer777]

sure ebay or valeks has them.

I haven't seen them maybe cause I' m not able to find what word can I put on the searching.

Do you have a link for helping me to buy that?

thank you

?

[ttocs]

I guess he doesn't have them on the bay anymore. Look up his repair site and send him an email and I am willing to bet he still has a stash.

Valeks1 on here isn't it fella's?