Upgrading to 1/0 gauge TOPIC IS DONE

[RobertJr79]

I'm running 4ga right now with the big 3 also in 4ga, but I will be upgrading to KnuKonceptz 1/0 gauge and will also be doing the big 3 in 1/0ga. I was wondering if I missed anything before I place my order, thanks. The reason I'm upgrading is I jusy pick up a ZX475TI and TI800.1 off Drock and both amps will be at 2 ohms. I will also be adding a second 800.1 down the road after I do some electrical upgrade.

EDIT: Does the OFC over the CCA worth it? I can save some money if I get the CCA wire. That would let me get some new rca at the same time.

[Drock]

I'm using the same wire. I think it's nice stuff.


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[ttocs]

CCA is fine unless you have the extra cash to spend.

[RobertJr79]

CCA is fine unless you have the extra cash to spend.

Nice I think I'll get the CCA 1/0ga kit its $54.

http://www.knukonceptz.com/productDetai ... ID=KCA-PK0

the 0ga OFC is $85.

http://www.knukonceptz.com/productDetai ... D=IXOS-PK0

Did I miss anything or is everything there?

[ttocs]

you will not hear or see a difference except in the price.

[RobertJr79]

you will not hear or see a difference except in the price.

Thanks for the info.

EDIT: Do I need a second fuse in the rear of the van? I will have a fuse under the hood and a fuse distribution block going to the amps.

[RobertJr79]

I'm using the same wire. I think it's nice stuff.


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Are you using the CCA or OFC?

[JayGold]

Are you using the KNF-22D for distribution to the amps?

Are you ordering/using the GM side posts for connection to your system, or for OEM power/ground wiring?

You'll need to fuse independently both the alternator and the main power wire going to the rear of the vehicle. A fused distribution block can be used in the trunk for each amp, no additional fusing will be required.

I'm in the process of wiring up my ride with Knu products as well and will be placing an order tomorrow.

[RobertJr79]

Are you using the KNF-22D for distribution to the amps?

Are you ordering/using the GM side posts for connection to your system, or for OEM power/ground wiring?

You'll need to fuse independently both the alternator and the main power wire going to the rear of the vehicle. A fused distribution block can be used in the trunk for each amp, no additional fusing will be required.

I'm in the process of wiring up my ride with Knu products as well and will be placing an order tomorrow.

The GM side post I'll need cause I had a hard time with just the 4 ga, the oem wires and my HID power wire, now I'll be adding 2 1/0 to the positive. I can image the fun I would have.

I'm going to do the (big 3 in 1/0 fusing the alt to battery with a 300amp fuse.

1/0 leaving the battery with a 300 amp fuse to the rear

in the rear adding a second 300 amp fuse this will also let me extend the 1/0 ga to the length I need, the kit comes with 18 feet but its going in a mini van and the 18 feet 4 ga I have right now ends at the 3rd row seat.

from the rear fuse 1/0 ga to the distribution block then out to 2 4 ga with 80 amp fuse for each amp. ( does the ZX475Ti and TI800.1 have build in fuse)

Thats the plan, I know I need the 300 amp fuse from the alt to battery but could I also use the 300 amp fuse in the rear fuse holder? The amp kit comes with a 250 amp fuse.

[JayGold]

I suggest using the battery top posts for your audio system power/ground and starter wiring. The GM side posts should be utilized for any additional factory wiring or lower amperage power draw.

[RobertJr79]

I suggest using the battery top posts for your audio system power/ground and starter wiring. The GM side posts should be utilized for any additional factory wiring or lower amperage power draw.

I don't have any top post, thats why I'm using the side one for now.

[RobertJr79]

My next upgrade will be a better battery under the hood, then alt upgrade.

[JayGold]

I suggest using the battery top posts for your audio system power/ground and starter wiring. The GM side posts should be utilized for any additional factory wiring or lower amperage power draw.

I don't have any top post, thats why I'm using the side one for now.

So this is a factory GM battery with only (1) Pos and (1) Neg terminal?

[RobertJr79]

I suggest using the battery top posts for your audio system power/ground and starter wiring. The GM side posts should be utilized for any additional factory wiring or lower amperage power draw.

I don't have any top post, thats why I'm using the side one for now.

So this is a factory GM battery with only (1) Pos and (1) Neg terminal?

Can't remember the brand but yes one 1 pos and 1 neg. I know I need to upgrade to a AGM battery thats my next this I want to buy.

[audiophyle_247]

CCA wire has a lower power rating than OFC, it will fail faster in a mobile environment, and typically you will want a CCA wire 1 size or more larger than OFC for equal rating.

Id spend that little extra for the OFC.

& no built in fuses on the Ti amps.

[dwnrodeo]

CCA wire has a lower power rating than OFC, it will fail faster in a mobile environment, and typically you will want a CCA wire 1 size or more larger than OFC for equal rating.

Id spend that little extra for the OFC.

& no built in fuses on the Ti amps.

How will CCA fail faster in a mobile environment? Just curious because I have a lot of it in my vehicle.

[zeropoint0.5]

CCA wire has a lower power rating than OFC, it will fail faster in a mobile environment, and typically you will want a CCA wire 1 size or more larger than OFC for equal rating.

Id spend that little extra for the OFC.

i agree

I would personally pay also the extra for the OFC cable... especially if you still have to buy it.

if you had the cca already, that's a different story but i would spend the extra for the OFC cables......

[ttocs]

been using it for years unless he/you are building some kind of spl rig there really just is not a need for it and if ANYONE on here can hear the difference in the power wire used your a better man then me!

[dwnrodeo]

CCA wire has a lower power rating than OFC, it will fail faster in a mobile environment, and typically you will want a CCA wire 1 size or more larger than OFC for equal rating.

Id spend that little extra for the OFC.

i agree

I would personally pay also the extra for the OFC cable... especially if you still have to buy it.

if you had the cca already, that's a different story but i would spend the extra for the OFC cables......

Total load of his amplifiers (ZX475Ti + 2-Ti800.1) = 240 amps max based on recommended fuse sizes published in Phoenix Gold's manuals. Total current capability on Knukonceptz website of 1/0 CCA wire = 250 amps @ $1.95/ft cost. Total current capability on Knuconceptz website of 1/0 OFC wire = >300 amps @ $3.95/ft cost. Now, knowing that on music, amplifiers RARELY see their max current draw I would say that the 240 amps max rating for all three amplifiers is conservative and the CCA wire would be sufficient for providing enough current to his amplifiers with minimal voltage drop. Yes, OFC would have a higher current rating with less current drop, but at over twice the price of the fully capable CCA wire, I don't think it's worth it. I myself use 1/0 CCA to provide power to my X200.4 (120amp rating) and SD1300.5 (100 amp rating). That is, unless CCA is more failure prone in a mobile environment...

[ttocs]

only power wire I have ever seen actually fail funny enough was in my truck and that was full OFC copper from knu with a ring terminal soldered on by the alt. The vibrations of the motor over a matter of a few years caused the solder connection to fail at the ring terminal and it broke off.

[wooferdog]

copper is a way better conductor than aluminum, and has less resistance than aluminum. why do you think they use copper in homes now ? they used to use aluminum way back in the day. aluminum= cheaper but more resistance more heat and then you have a fire. And thats the reason you have to go bigger on the CCA wire to get the same load capacity as OFC.

[dwnrodeo]

copper is a way better conductor than aluminum, and has less resistance than aluminum. why do you think they use copper in homes now ? they used to use aluminum way back in the day. aluminum= cheaper but more resistance more heat and then you have a fire. And thats the reason you have to go bigger on the CCA wire to get the same load capacity as OFC.

O.K., as I stated in my previous post, we ALL know that OFC is a better conductor than CCA wire of the same gauge, it's been tested, proven, verified, etc... Now, please state where CCA will NOT work in his application. His max current draw for his amplifiers will be less than the max current allowed by Knukonceptz 1/0 CCA cable according to PG published manuals and Knukonceptz website. So for half the cost, he can purchase the 1/0 CCA wire that fits his needs compared to the 1/0 OFC wire.

[ttocs]

correct but as said before he is with in limits of the CCA wire with the lowered output. It

[RobertJr79]

Thanks for all the info and input guys. By the time I will add the second ti800.1 the second amp will be for 2 more 12" sub and that won;t be till next summer. I will have a alt upgrade done, upgraded battery under the hood and also a few in the back and I will be also running a second 1/0 run to the rear batteries.

[audiophyle_247]

Don't forget he will be running a 20+ft wire, which decreases the cables effective amp rating & increases the resistance. CCA already has a higher restsitance so there could be a sizeable voltage drop across that CCA wire that wouldn't happen with the OFC. Considering how big of a difference there is in power from the Ti amps between 12.5 & 14.4v, any voltage drop will impact the amp's performance.

Aluminum has a greater resistance than copper, it also has a greater expansion/contraction rate from temperature change than copper, which in a mobile environment can be huge temp swings from day to day, especially under the hood. This change will stress the cable at every connection point, which will loosen up & fail much faster than copper.

The difference between the cables was only $30 according to his math, so the OFC is not twice the price or that difference would be $50 (the price of CCA). So he could spend an extra $30 now & get a more reliable cable with more than enough capacity for his future plans and very little voltage drop, or spend another $50+ (prices never go down) later on and not only have the headaches of running 2 huge wires & having to install the second wire but will also need more fuses and fuse blocks and still have higher voltage drop issues. Why all that nonsense over saving a whopping $30 now?

Ears are so insensitive to change you cannot base every decision on if its audible or not.