I'm running a pair of 8ohm mids and 8ohm tweeters actively off a X200.4. I had an issue when setting the gains yesterday, however. If I wanted to give my 8ohm mids ~100W, I should be looking for about 28-30V on my multimeter. However, even when the Xenon gains are cranked all the way up, I only read a little over 2V per channel. The speakers still get plenty loud, but this concerns me. And the problem isn't with my HU, since my sub amp reads the proper voltage.
Now before I freak out, I figured that this might be due to me only having connected a single power/ground input. I wouldn't have expected such a dramatic voltage loss, but hey, what do I know? So hopefully tomorrow I'll run and get a new distribution block to hook up both sets of power/grounds and see if that fixes it. If anyone has any other recommendations, experiences, concerns, etc. please throw them out.
Questions:
1) Should I fuse both 4ga power inputs at 60A (to give the combined 120A listed in the manual)?
2) Do I need to connect two remote wires as well, for some bizarre reason?
System:
Pioneer P880PRS
Usher 8945P
Peerless HDS
PG Xenon X200.4
Soundsplinter Rl-p15
Avionixx AXT1200.1
Quick X200.4 Questions
Two 12+ and Two 12- are recommended but only one remote is needed.
How were you testing the AC voltage? with a test tone? what was the frequency of the tone? Were you using crossovers at the time?
If you were using say a 60hz tone and you had you crossovers set for 100+hz you are going to cut the voltage you get for a reading dramatically the higher you set your crossovers. I suggest either defeating the crossovers or use a tone within the range you want your speaker(s) to play.
and Welcome to the Phorum.
How were you testing the AC voltage? with a test tone? what was the frequency of the tone? Were you using crossovers at the time?
If you were using say a 60hz tone and you had you crossovers set for 100+hz you are going to cut the voltage you get for a reading dramatically the higher you set your crossovers. I suggest either defeating the crossovers or use a tone within the range you want your speaker(s) to play.
and Welcome to the Phorum.
I think we've established that "Ka Ka" and "Tukki Tukki" don't work.
I don't think my crossovers were cutting into the signal. I used -6dB test tones at 3kHz, 1kHz, and 50Hz. I used a DMM to test the voltage. I could try defeating the crossover, but I can't see how that would affect anything for the 1kHz tone to my mids.
Tweeters - HP: 2kHz@18dB
Mids - HP: 63Hz@24dB LP: 1.6kHz@12dB
Sub - LP: 50Hz@18dB
Tweeters - HP: 2kHz@18dB
Mids - HP: 63Hz@24dB LP: 1.6kHz@12dB
Sub - LP: 50Hz@18dB
Was your meter on Auto-range? If so did you account for field/multiplier changes?idiot wrote:I don't think my crossovers were cutting into the signal. I used -6dB test tones at 3kHz, 1kHz, and 50Hz. I used a DMM to test the voltage. I could try defeating the crossover, but I can't see how that would affect anything for the 1kHz tone to my mids.
Tweeters - HP: 2kHz@18dB
Mids - HP: 63Hz@24dB LP: 1.6kHz@12dB
Sub - LP: 50Hz@18dB
I think we've established that "Ka Ka" and "Tukki Tukki" don't work.
On your ACV selection do you have more than one option? such as <20VAC <200VAC and >200VAC or do you just have VAC?
If you have just VAC then I would say you have an auto-ranging meter. When you read the output make certain you note the decimal position as well as the multiplier setting sometimes you may be reading 10 volts but it may auto-range and should read 1000 volts, refer to the owners manual of the unit to be certain what indicators it uses to do this.
Keep in mind you do not have to set your system with a meter, it is just a great way of creating a repeatable baseline if you like to tinker. Always trust your ears for final configuration as that's what really matters.
If you have just VAC then I would say you have an auto-ranging meter. When you read the output make certain you note the decimal position as well as the multiplier setting sometimes you may be reading 10 volts but it may auto-range and should read 1000 volts, refer to the owners manual of the unit to be certain what indicators it uses to do this.
Keep in mind you do not have to set your system with a meter, it is just a great way of creating a repeatable baseline if you like to tinker. Always trust your ears for final configuration as that's what really matters.
I think we've established that "Ka Ka" and "Tukki Tukki" don't work.
......? -6 dB, don't you need to use -0 dB? or you'll need to compensate for the -6 dB of loss.I realize this, but getting only 2V when I expect close to 30V is a big enough difference to concern me. I'll probably pick up a new distribution block tomorrow and see if that helps. I'll let you guys know. ThanksVW337 wrote:Keep in mind you do not have to set your system with a meter, it is just a great way of creating a repeatable baseline if you like to tinker. Always trust your ears for final configuration as that's what really matters.
Smgreen, you can use -3dB or -6dB tones if you know how to listen for speaker strain. I should probably use -3dB for my mids, actually, but -6dB tones would be fine for the sub. I just didn't feel like making a new disc.
I'm sure you can use -3/-6/-?, But if you don't use a -0 then the VAC reading you're looking for isn't going to happen. By reducing the dB output on the disc, you'll reduce the VAC on the amp. Yes, you still could reach the VAC you're looking for, but the amp still wouldn't be set "correctly" < used loosely.
I feel I'm right, you feel you're right. Who is? Both?
We might just be a few pages apart. If I could think of a way to better explain my thought process I would.
I feel I'm right, you feel you're right. Who is? Both?
We might just be a few pages apart. If I could think of a way to better explain my thought process I would.
"ZPA's will have the same sound essentially as you get from the MS, they just feature a bigger shinier set of balls."
Install:
http://phoenixphorum.com/viewtopic.php?f=10&t=16998
Install:
http://phoenixphorum.com/viewtopic.php?f=10&t=16998
No, I understand what you're saying. That could be part of the problem, although it would mean that the X200.4 has a much more limited output than I would expect (it should not be cutting my voltage by over a factor of 10). Again, this wasn't a problem when I was setting my sub amp -- I didn't read 5V instead of 58V.
I couldn't get a distribution block this weekend, so I'll probably make a new test tone disc before I throw more money on this. My mids get really freaking loud, so I imagine that the number I'm reading on the DMM is false for some reason. I'll throw on some different frequencies and gain corrections. No harm in trying.
I couldn't get a distribution block this weekend, so I'll probably make a new test tone disc before I throw more money on this. My mids get really freaking loud, so I imagine that the number I'm reading on the DMM is false for some reason. I'll throw on some different frequencies and gain corrections. No harm in trying.
