Who needs a bass cube knob?

[dvnt88]

Lol, like the idea of the brightness of the LED's controlled by the level pot's second gang. Now I see why yours is so small (can't see the board from the pic you included, so no telling how long it is but sure doesn't look long).

Well for those that want an LPL added to the mix, I might just include it with the RJ11 female jack already wired on so the pot can be mounted anywhere (next to the BC controls if wanted)...




IF YOU WANT TO BE ADDED TO THE LIST for the BC remotes please PM me so I can make sure I make one for you. They will be 25.00 each (will not include any cords, or the mounting panel....for push/pull switch pot add 5.00).

Count me in for 2 of them when you get the final product up and goin' ...nice job sir.

[audiophyle_247]

The original pot is linear, and logarithmic pot (ie audio trim) is even worse.
I think an antilog (reverse audio trim) would be the right pot to use, but I was fine with the linear because it was the same as OEM & the LED intensity change was uniform across the sweep of the dial.

The LED intensity should not change at all if your circuit is the same as OEM. It's been a long time, but the BC has 4 wires, one is power and one is a ground, then there is one that is the bass level value, and the other is the freq pot value. The LED circuit connects from power to ground, the bass level connects from power to its own return wire, and freq circuit connects from power to its own return wire. Combining the LED and bass level circuits (by sharing pot gang) is changing the circuit.

I think it may be possible that the LED in the circuit is what is causing the large step at mid level, because mine never did that. (Audibly it did but because we hear logarithmically, the LED however was completely linear in illumination levels)

[trickyricky]

Thats weird because according to the schematics and pcb lay outs it clearly shows the LED being attached to the "level" pot.


Anyone with an original BC remote to verify the LED functions (does it dim with the level? or is it solid once turned on?) Also if possible to measure the voltage of the LED so I can see if something is wrong with mine. Heck take it apart and take some pics of the pcb to make sure of the connections/circuit. If for some reason you dont feel safe taking it apart or rather I take a look at it, then I would be willing to pay for S&H both ways....


Am going off of the diagrams provided by fellow PG members (jason?) and they may be slightly wrong or inaccurate. Still seems to function but again the enhancement doesn't start until the level pot is nearly half of the way turned.




After reading the manual several times over and over, it clearly states that the level pot has to be half way to 3/4 of the way clockwise (thats where it will usually be, according to the manual so thats where most of the enhancement effect takes place).

Then it mentions the "EFFECT LED" which ONLY lights up when the enhancement effect takes place, therefore may be having it set below 1/2 means the enhancement is so little/pretty much inactive therefore the LED is off. As soon as you see that puppy light up you know you got enhancement the brighter the more enhancement (higher level).


I got to play around with it more and it seems its working fine. Of course this is just going off an oscilloscope since I dont have the original remote. The fhz pot works, the level pot works as well....now time to throw it in the car and see what the heck it does. Got some oldies I want to take a listen to.

[audiophyle_247]

Here is the circuit from Jacampb2's thread.

It is almost an exact copy of the original PCB layout.

The square pad is the positive from the RJ11, which runs to the positive of the LED & parallels to both potentiometers from there. The circuit for the LED does not pass through any of the pots so it shouldnt change with their setting.

I broke out one of my original remotes & a BC to test, and the LED on mine does not change at all.
The voltage at the LED also did not change, well it did but only from 3.005v to 3.007v between dial extremes, not enough to impact the LED visually.

[Weaklink]

He also had this one I think

[audiophyle_247]

That looks like the layout he used for his boards with modified mounting for the freq pot.

Circuits are the same.

[trickyricky]

Just notice that those two circuits ARE NOT THE SAME!!!


Look at the pots, they share the two outer pins (1 & 3) well on the first diagram posted pin 1 is not shared!!!!


Second diagram/circuit, they two pots share pins 1 & 3 (by share I mean are parallel).

Anyone else caught that? Am going to mess with it right now to see if that was the case. I went off of the first diagram (LOL).




YEP that's what it was...the first diagram is missing a trace (it just happens to be the one I used to make my circuit!! LOL). Good thing you guys posted those two pics (even though I had them already saved in my pc) I notice right away how it was missing a trace by looking at those two pics on the same PAGE!!.


So now, as soon as you turn it on the LED turns brightly and stays bright through out the whole level setting. NOW I SEE the enhancement effect take place right after turning the level knob. So in other words you switch it on, still at 0 effect (just like audiophyle mentioned the switch is not needed since the pot fully counterclockwise will not produce any enhancement) but as soon as you start twisting that knob I saw the enhancement effect take place on the scope and now GOT MORE BOOST out of it as well, good thing you guys caught that and audiophyle SUPER THANKS for pointing it out. I dont have a bass cube remote otherwise I would of got it right the first place.



I guess now time to start making them. I like the idea of the switch just to turn off the LED (lol since I can't dim it down now, lol), that said I will stick with the rotary switch pot. But the fhz pot is what kinda bothers me....I want to switch to a smaller one like the original that the shaft can be removed so no one messes with the tuned fhz this may be very critical in certain audio installs.




So let me hear it from you guys.... BIG permanent fhz pot, or the smaller with the removable shaft??? Majority rules....I just need a quick answer so I can start making them.

[vladthebad]

Any chance the big pot would be able to be mounted on a dip socket? Then we could detach it, and replace with a resistor or set of resistors like an Rnet for fixed freq.



Other option might be a pair of jumpers to connect to enable freq knob, with socket for resistor with jumpers set other way.

Or maybe that's all way too complicated..

[trickyricky]

Good ideas but unfortunately they are too complex for something that can be accomplished much easier.

Remember I mentioned the smaller pot as a removable shaft. Well that shaft is the size of a 2 allen key (2mm), so if you don't want a 6mm hole for the removable shaft then you can do two things.

1- Make a small 2.5mm hole on the control panel...so you can still have access to tune the fhz with an allen key. Just to give you an idea of how small of a hole that will be, take a look at the LED that is 3mm.

2- Set the fhz you wish and then mount the bc remote to the control pannel and dont cut a hole for the fhz.

That simple.

The dip socket wouldn't work at all, nice try though. Then tried to have a "FIXED" setting with resistors (VERY POSSIBLE) will never allow you to change fhz...unless you remove the resistors and change them out (the smaller pot would be the best bet).



Here's my mounting control panel with the LED already in place. I polished my bracket so it doesn't look like the first pic I posted, lol that was an ugly nightmare (not saying this finish on looks all that great, but certainly much better just needs a clear coat).

The knobs can be replaced to your needs. I will provide the ones I pictured, but can be easily replaced with fancy metal knobs for a more industrial look.

[audiophyle_247]

Just notice that those two circuits ARE NOT THE SAME!!!

You are mistaken, they are exactly the same circuits but the second one is a bit easier to read.
The first image is a double sided PCB, where the red traces are on one side & the green are on the other side. I think you missed the piece where the the red positive lead (RJ11 to LED) overlaps the connection from the main pot's 2nd pin, which parallels to R2 after running across the RJ11 pin.
The second layout was on a single sided PCB, with those black lines being jumpers. It was also laid out around Jason's replacement parts not original parts, so its a little different due to component mounting & making jumper pads.

Glad you figured out what was missing from your layout.

[trickyricky]

Yes they are basically the same circuit. But what I meant by "ARE NOT THE SAME!!!" was that the Double Sided diagram is missing a trace. It's a trace that connect the pots together...you don't see it??? HINT: Its the jumper on the second designed pbc thats single sided "E$3 to E$4".

As soon as I connected those two pins from the pots the thing worked like a charm. I notice more enhancement effect (compare to before) and better control of the fhz pot (before I could only control 20-50hz even though manual stated 20-110hz), now it works just as the manual states.

[audiophyle_247]

Well look at that, you are right. Good catch, & now that you've pointed it out it looks pretty obvious there is a trace missing. lol

I think the original remote has a trace similar to the second diagram running across the top of the PCB, hard to see without removing the components, maybe that's how Jason missed it in the first diagram.

[trickyricky]

This one is for one of the PG members here...bass cube remote with two LPL's all in one board.




Sorry for the crappy cell phone pic. Will try to get better ones.

[Drock]

Sweet man. Looking good. Have you tested yet? I can't wait to get mine.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[trickyricky]

Yes I tested it. I checked it with a sine sweep that goes from 75hz to 20hz in 1min, I notice that around 40hz the signal was getting smaller by the time it got to 25hz it was down to 1v while it started at 1.68v.

So with the Bass Cube set half way and fhz at 20hz I played the sweep again. This time it started at 1.73v and remained pretty steady until the 45hz note then it started rising, reached 2v at 28hz with a peak of 2.10 at 24hz. Now this is just on how I got my BC set up internally, but this goes to show that it does enhance those missing or low notes.


I could post vids but dont know what good that would do if its exactly as I explained above...but will be more than happy to share links (pm me).







BTW I have added a resistor trimmer pot for the LED, these things are bright!!!! So with the pot it will allow the user to set the light intensity.

[Drock]

That's a great idea.
I like that design. Let me know when your ready to sell and I'll send pp to you. I need 3 units.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[LowandLoud]

You are the man! These look great and sounds like they work just as good. Very quick too, i was expecting months before a usable piece.
You have a PM coming.

LL

[trickyricky]

I got four BC remotes available....I'll post pics in a bit. These are much smaller than the first one I did (that one am keeping). I'll make more as soon as orders start coming in.

[kg1961]

Have you come up with a final price?

[trickyricky]

Yes.... 25.00 without any control housing/panel (the aluminum bracket) or 35.00 with it (+5.00 for shipping). Each LPL is an additional 15.00 (can be mounted on a separate board or customized a BC with the LPL on the same board).


The thing is if you guys want more than one or two...I feel like its just going to be re sold for profit, which its none of my business but I made these straight for PG members that need one or two. I believe 25.00 is cheap and affordable price considering the parts and labor that goes into putting one of these together.


Hell if you want I can send you DIY KITS so you can put it together yourself....does 15.00 shipped sound fair? for those that want two or more this might be a good option unless your not handy with the solder iron.

[kg1961]

I agree sorry I was just asking I think I still want 3 I just need to decide with or without housing maybe I can piggyback mine with drocks.
Thanks again
Mike

[trickyricky]

Yeah three will be the limit...am not looking to make any money (other wise I would sell them on ebay instead) just helping out fellow members.

Let me know as I have four ready, once I get a "green" light I'll make another few.


Dont want to make many as some may want the LPL on the same board.

[kg1961]

Put me down for 2 with the case no lpl please
I can send fund Saturday
Thanks again

[Weaklink]

I'll take one DIY kit with a lpl and 3 blue LEDs. I'll see what I can come up with for a mount then. My octane le will be soooo happy.

[akwizeguy]

Just PM'd you trickyricky
BC knob + Housing + LPL would be wonderful. You sir are a godsend