How to do nice wire routing?

[vwdude]

Those are all ready good ideas. My main thing is I don't like to remove panels more than I have to so I run all RCAs, +/-/r, and signal cables that I think I'll need the first time. This sometimes means I'll run some extra speaker wire (like to go active or run a center channel) plus the wires to connect extra processors in the front if needed.

[ttocs]

no one likes to take off panels they do not need too. Often if you get the harness you need nice and tight with a few wraps of electrical tape every foot or so often you can just lift the edge of the panel up and tuck it in behind it.

[vwdude]

Well my point was not that I'm lazy and don't want to remove it but rather the more you lift the panels the more loose the clips get and you have added rattles. I like to keep the panels like "virgins" if you know what I mean.

In the next few weeks I plan to start my install in my new car. I'll do the fabrication in the trunk first so that I'll know what equipment is going where before the first panel gets removed (of course the head unit is he only exception in this case). Once you know what's going where then you can route the wiring in the neatest way possible.

I also estimate how long I will need for the power and ground wires and I add 2 to 3 feet. It's much easier to cut off extra wire rather than throw away a piece that's just a few inches too short. It also allows you to route the wire around stuff to make it less visible or look better planned.

[ttocs]

every installer should have a wire stretcher in his tool box for when that wire is 2" too short. Saved my butt way too many times.

[Alfaholic]

I have to take the panels of because i will use a tripple shielded rca i will also need juice to the processor but i think i will take from rear light and use a relay and use that for all my remote cabels.
I think i will mount the amplifieres and proccessor in a box with two fans, i want to mount the box on the back plate of the rear seats i was thinking of using a mdf and make windows in plexi glass this way i can show off the amps and hide the wires.
I bought a router so can get perfect holes and round of the edges and corners, now i just have to learn to use it lol

[Renovatio]

If i were you, i would do everything like that: http://www.diymobileaudio.com/forum/bui ... morel.html only take notice on to the trunk amp rack. And even thous guys makes quite mistakes...

[ttocs]

two good pieces of advice for the router is go with the way it rotates. If it spins clockwise you want to push it in the same direction or it will grab the wood and pull out of your hands. the 2nd piece of advice is to get a momentary power on foot switch from harbor freight. It is just a pedal so that when you step on it, it has power when you step off it will not. Its very handy because when you get worried and start to step away from it the power it cut off instantly.

[Alfaholic]

Thanks for the advice guys, i love that amp rack Renovatio i will try to put the cabels through the back seat plate and in to the amp rack i want to have the front like a door so i can open it easy if i need to ajust the amps.
I will train with the router before i cut the things im using in the car, i need to make a cutout template for it and got some plexi that im going to cut and drill holes in so it fit my router base.

[Alfaholic]

I was thinking something like this with cut out where the opening between the rear seat is, i would need to get the plexi pre cut but i can ask in my old workplace they have big saw that cuts it perfect its only 3 windows in the front and the sides.

[Alfaholic]

Here is the template im making for my router do you guys think this will work?, i did not want to spend 150$ on a template when i payed 65$ on the router.
I got some hard steel router bits but they does not got plunger bits here can i drill a hole and use the straight bit i got when i make the hole for the subwoofer?

[ttocs]

one thing you will learn is that cheap router bits do not pay as they just stop cutting or end up messing something else up. When I need one I do not expect to pay less then $30-40 for that bit. I do a rough cut with a saw myself first so there is only 1/8" or less of the material I am going to cut and then I break out the router. You can't take out too much at a time or it will kick on you.

[Alfaholic]

I was looking for carbid bits but they did not have any this router can take the thicker bits to so i will look in the hardware store if the got a good ones with the thick shaft.
Do you think i can use the template?, if i saw out the middle with a saw i can not use the template and im scared to fuck it up if i freehand it.

[ttocs]

it should work. Might take a hole or two to get it perfect but you have space there.