rewinding an input toroid?
yes, nichicon, 25volt though which are apparently not as good as 16volts for some reason that i don't understand!! 3300uf so 50% uprated, could of gone bigger but bought 50 quite cheap from your side of the pond
Ti1 headunit (unique)
Outlaw in crate.
2x original shrouded ms2250's.
Route 66 in box + custom m100 to match.
Roadster 66 in flight case
Octane LE in box.
Reactor #186 in flight case.
Reactor EQ232
Ti400.2 AL
AX204A + EQ232 + ZPX2 + TBA set
ZCS6 component set
Tantrum+Titanium bass cubes
Ti12d Elite sub
DD5 + DD10 + 6 Ti blocks!
Outlaw in crate.
2x original shrouded ms2250's.
Route 66 in box + custom m100 to match.
Roadster 66 in flight case
Octane LE in box.
Reactor #186 in flight case.
Reactor EQ232
Ti400.2 AL
AX204A + EQ232 + ZPX2 + TBA set
ZCS6 component set
Tantrum+Titanium bass cubes
Ti12d Elite sub
DD5 + DD10 + 6 Ti blocks!
I was just explaining to Doc in another post that 25 volt is fine if your using higher UF ratings they will withstand much higher ripple current and live longer.
I think Doc is thinking about the Micro-farad verses the voltage factor. And he has a valid point about operating voltage and capacitance rating. But consider the value upgrade, and the voltage upgrade I think your still in the range of the original cap value under load.
The original part was 2200uf at 16 volts. Now no car makes 16 volts, so its safe to say that the car will make 14.5 volts, and that original cap is 16 volt rated. So 2200 uf at 16 might actually be 1850 uf at 14.5 volts DC.
Hence his consideration of 25 not being a fair value. But if you upped the C value with the voltage you might still be in range and then it all becomes a wash, except that the new 25 volt caps will live longer the the older 16 volt rated caps.
So at 14.5 volts the caps UF rating derates a bit, But since you upped the UF value along with the voltage rating, it should all be a wash.
In fact most of my experiences with other brands of car amps, says they all use 25 or even 35 volt rated caps on the 12 volt side.
And you know what, I have never seen any of those amps leak and lose caps like PG does with there 16 volt rating, and I have seen 1000.s of amps over the years and only PG has this big issue, So maybe 16 volt is not the answer, maybe 25 volt is a better part.
And also remember this part really serves no other purpose but to keep the switching noise from the amps power supply from going back into your cars electrical system. There small value to begin with says they can serve no other purpose in a active circuit like this.
Heck leave them out and and just attach a half farad cap to the power terminals and you will get better performance
I think Doc is thinking about the Micro-farad verses the voltage factor. And he has a valid point about operating voltage and capacitance rating. But consider the value upgrade, and the voltage upgrade I think your still in the range of the original cap value under load.
The original part was 2200uf at 16 volts. Now no car makes 16 volts, so its safe to say that the car will make 14.5 volts, and that original cap is 16 volt rated. So 2200 uf at 16 might actually be 1850 uf at 14.5 volts DC.
Hence his consideration of 25 not being a fair value. But if you upped the C value with the voltage you might still be in range and then it all becomes a wash, except that the new 25 volt caps will live longer the the older 16 volt rated caps.
So at 14.5 volts the caps UF rating derates a bit, But since you upped the UF value along with the voltage rating, it should all be a wash.
In fact most of my experiences with other brands of car amps, says they all use 25 or even 35 volt rated caps on the 12 volt side.
And you know what, I have never seen any of those amps leak and lose caps like PG does with there 16 volt rating, and I have seen 1000.s of amps over the years and only PG has this big issue, So maybe 16 volt is not the answer, maybe 25 volt is a better part.
And also remember this part really serves no other purpose but to keep the switching noise from the amps power supply from going back into your cars electrical system. There small value to begin with says they can serve no other purpose in a active circuit like this.
Heck leave them out and and just attach a half farad cap to the power terminals and you will get better performance
interesting read cecil just remembered i still have the other ms2125 to do, maybe i won't short a fet out next time 
do you recomend putting a dab of silicone between the caps to reduce vibration? and will any silicone do?
just remembered i still have the other ms2125 to do, maybe i won't short a fet out next time do you recomend putting a dab of silicone between the caps to reduce vibration? and will any silicone do?
Ti1 headunit (unique)
Outlaw in crate.
2x original shrouded ms2250's.
Route 66 in box + custom m100 to match.
Roadster 66 in flight case
Octane LE in box.
Reactor #186 in flight case.
Reactor EQ232
Ti400.2 AL
AX204A + EQ232 + ZPX2 + TBA set
ZCS6 component set
Tantrum+Titanium bass cubes
Ti12d Elite sub
DD5 + DD10 + 6 Ti blocks!
Outlaw in crate.
2x original shrouded ms2250's.
Route 66 in box + custom m100 to match.
Roadster 66 in flight case
Octane LE in box.
Reactor #186 in flight case.
Reactor EQ232
Ti400.2 AL
AX204A + EQ232 + ZPX2 + TBA set
ZCS6 component set
Tantrum+Titanium bass cubes
Ti12d Elite sub
DD5 + DD10 + 6 Ti blocks!
ALL CAPS FAIL IN TIME, I don't care who made them, or how expensive, or how specialized the name and make. THEY ALL WILL FAIL IN TIME.
I select and use only Nichicon brand name capacitors, They cost more but are worth it in my opinion. I only buy, use and stock 105 degree C rated caps. This rating implies that they will live there rated life at these elevated operating temperatures. there given lifespan is like 4000 to 5000 hours. Thats it , thats all you get with the spec numbers game for capacitors. Now if they never see this type of abuse they will naturally last longer, but nothing is guaranteed by any maker about that. Thats just engineering supposition and wishful thinking. Higher voltage is always better but as Doc likes to mention there is a subsequent reduction of capacitance with lower operating voltages.
ESR is another term likely to be seen and used, when shopping for caps. Effective Series Resistance is a critical measurement, Thats why I have a ESR Meter and a RCL meter < 4 to be exact> .
I measure and evaluate each any every cap I use < Yes I hand select my caps before I install them, I match a set for the job prior to the work>.
Just ask Soth, I sold him two matched sets of caps for his MS amp. They were shipped in matched sets of 12 for each of his amps. I do the same for each and every job on my bench.
If you don't match caps in sets and then you bank them together expecting them to work equally and evenly your just fooling yourself. Why do you think those 15 farad multi caps explode and catch on fire and should be fused appropriately.
I could go on and on and on about caps but most of you would like to get on with your life and not learn the Magna Charter of Capacitors tonight.
I do strange things like dab some silicone RTV on the center bottom of my 12 volt caps. < Not a lot, just enough to improve board connection, bond, and stability, and prevent lead damage from shock and vibration>
This does two things:
To start, it gives the bottom of the cap a seal connection to the board. This strengthens the connection and aids in preventing shock vibration damage to the caps leads and seals. If the cap leaks it leaks outside and to the sides not underneath anymore like I have seen, and does not dissolve the board under the cap anymore, as its sealed up by the RTV.
Any leakage that may occur will be at the leads and directly to the via's and the only place it can go from there is OUT to each side showing cleanly and clearly that its leaking.
This also prevents the short outs by the electrolyte under each of the caps, and those dastardly burn up boards that you and Doc so feverishly work to repair.
The cap acts as its attached to the board by suction, and the seal saves the board, and prevents dielectric short out which burns the board up.
So there you have it my line of thinking about preventing board damage to your PG amps from cap leakage. You see replacing the caps is a must, and always will be as long as they have caps that leak.
Replacing all the caps even with the worlds greatest and bestest caps ever will not stop this issue from happening, BUT you can think your way to a newer possibly better solution using prevention along with replacement.
Look, I don't care what cap you buy and use in these amps, They Will All Fail In Time, and I do mean they all will fail. I don't care who makes them or how much ripple current they will handle or how fricking big they are. they Will All fail In Time! .
This includes the caps I select and use, and the caps Doc uses < sorry Doc its the truth, and you know its the truth. I'm not bashing you or your selection of caps. I am trying to explain the facts of life electronics wise to the masses. ALL CAPS FAIL WITH TIME AND USE AND ABUSE PERIOD !
I just take things a bit further into the bizzare by actually trying to prevent cap damage by improved mounting and installation methods that block electrolyte short out underneath the cap that burns up the boards by using just a tiny dab of RTV between the leads , and just enough to close the tunnel in the bottom cap seal.
If you look at the bottom of all these caps there is a tunnel in between the leads . This tunnel fills with leaked electrolyte and then the 12 volts shorts across the tunnel between the leads and the voltage causes the board traces to dissolve by way of electrolysis like effect. The dab of RTV blocks this from ever happening....
Neat trick Eh???
Now before I get declared insane for actually trying to prevent this catastrophe, please allow yourself a moment of thought about what I have described, and practice a thought experiment like good old Albert E. would do, and just give it try in your mind and see if it might fit...
At worse case it couldn't hurt, right ???... C
Oh on the bigger rail caps I have seen these break off at the leads, As big as those leads are they fail from shock and vibration. MY insane trick here is to place two dabs of RTV counter opposite to the connection leads, so when the cap is soldered, the RTV ad's two opposite connection points to the board that supply way more support and prevent shock - vibration from breaking the connections leads at the board surface.
The Big caps now have 4 points of connection, 2 via leads thru the board, and 2 to the surface opposite of the electrical leads connection. A 4 point connection is better than 2 any day of the week...
Now here again I have a thought experiment for you to try concerning those big rail caps. Take your fore finger, and reach over to each and everyone of those caps, and place your finger right in the center of the top of each of these big caps and Wiggle your finger, yes I said wiggle your finger back and forth.
If the cap moves back and forth under this pressure Your cap is NOT seated against the board surface and it will vibrate in your car to bass and pot-holes and speed bumps and whatever.
And with all this vibration those caps will snap off there leads right at the board surface where the stress has caused the metal to fatigue and stress fracture. Now if you simply had applied two little dabs of RTV counter opposite to the connection leads this cap could not wiggle now could it. It would have a 4 point connection preventing such a thing from happening now wouldn't it???,,, Just a thought experiment for you to try,,,Good luck...
Now for removal of My installed caps you start by removing all solder solder by normal methods such as wick and suction < You would do this anyway even without the RTV fix> .
Then you simply slip a exacto knife edge under the cap and gentle slice the RTV seal into, thus making it possible to pull the cap off the board freely.
As for any residual RTV left over just use a wedge type eraser like your secretary uses to simple erase the residual RTV off the board...VIOLA simple and sweet, based all on the KiSS < Keep It Simple Stupid> principal of prevention. RTV and pen and pencil erasers, great inventions especially when used in unorthodox methods.....
Your Honor I rest my case.... C
To My detractors:
Please any of you that don't like what I have had to say here tonight, just don't read it. Blow it off as a old mans ramblings, or whatever. But please don't comment on things you know nothing about at all. Its just a waste for forum time and space for you to argue with me and my points of view about how to improve electronics methods and such.
I post my methods freely as I have been using them for YEARS and I have had the time and training and results to back my statements up with facts, and time based evidence in the field. Plus I'm just getting to frickin tired of arguing with those of you that know it all, and can do it all, and have done it all. I still have not figured out why your here busting my rocks with all that experience and knowledge you have going for you.... You should be out spending all the money they pay you for being so smart....
Tom:
This single post might possibly be saved as a addendum to cap replacement in the How to area. Its not a complete how to < Its big as Hell anyway> , but it has its merits in prevention. Perhaps you can think up a catchy name, maybe edit it some, to save it for those that want to actually try to improve on cap installation methods and hopefully prevent board damage. A ounce of prevention is worth a pound of fiberglass cure.
I don't think it would fit with Doc's tutorial very well, as it does not have his seal of approval, but I think my ideas have their own merit and perhaps you and others might also feel this also. I leave this completely up to your discretion.....C
I select and use only Nichicon brand name capacitors, They cost more but are worth it in my opinion. I only buy, use and stock 105 degree C rated caps. This rating implies that they will live there rated life at these elevated operating temperatures. there given lifespan is like 4000 to 5000 hours. Thats it , thats all you get with the spec numbers game for capacitors. Now if they never see this type of abuse they will naturally last longer, but nothing is guaranteed by any maker about that. Thats just engineering supposition and wishful thinking. Higher voltage is always better but as Doc likes to mention there is a subsequent reduction of capacitance with lower operating voltages.
ESR is another term likely to be seen and used, when shopping for caps. Effective Series Resistance is a critical measurement, Thats why I have a ESR Meter and a RCL meter < 4 to be exact> .
I measure and evaluate each any every cap I use < Yes I hand select my caps before I install them, I match a set for the job prior to the work>.
Just ask Soth, I sold him two matched sets of caps for his MS amp. They were shipped in matched sets of 12 for each of his amps. I do the same for each and every job on my bench.
If you don't match caps in sets and then you bank them together expecting them to work equally and evenly your just fooling yourself. Why do you think those 15 farad multi caps explode and catch on fire and should be fused appropriately.
I could go on and on and on about caps but most of you would like to get on with your life and not learn the Magna Charter of Capacitors tonight.
I do strange things like dab some silicone RTV on the center bottom of my 12 volt caps. < Not a lot, just enough to improve board connection, bond, and stability, and prevent lead damage from shock and vibration>
This does two things:
To start, it gives the bottom of the cap a seal connection to the board. This strengthens the connection and aids in preventing shock vibration damage to the caps leads and seals. If the cap leaks it leaks outside and to the sides not underneath anymore like I have seen, and does not dissolve the board under the cap anymore, as its sealed up by the RTV.
Any leakage that may occur will be at the leads and directly to the via's and the only place it can go from there is OUT to each side showing cleanly and clearly that its leaking.
This also prevents the short outs by the electrolyte under each of the caps, and those dastardly burn up boards that you and Doc so feverishly work to repair.
The cap acts as its attached to the board by suction, and the seal saves the board, and prevents dielectric short out which burns the board up.
So there you have it my line of thinking about preventing board damage to your PG amps from cap leakage. You see replacing the caps is a must, and always will be as long as they have caps that leak.
Replacing all the caps even with the worlds greatest and bestest caps ever will not stop this issue from happening, BUT you can think your way to a newer possibly better solution using prevention along with replacement.
Look, I don't care what cap you buy and use in these amps, They Will All Fail In Time, and I do mean they all will fail. I don't care who makes them or how much ripple current they will handle or how fricking big they are. they Will All fail In Time! .
This includes the caps I select and use, and the caps Doc uses < sorry Doc its the truth, and you know its the truth. I'm not bashing you or your selection of caps. I am trying to explain the facts of life electronics wise to the masses. ALL CAPS FAIL WITH TIME AND USE AND ABUSE PERIOD !
I just take things a bit further into the bizzare by actually trying to prevent cap damage by improved mounting and installation methods that block electrolyte short out underneath the cap that burns up the boards by using just a tiny dab of RTV between the leads , and just enough to close the tunnel in the bottom cap seal.
If you look at the bottom of all these caps there is a tunnel in between the leads . This tunnel fills with leaked electrolyte and then the 12 volts shorts across the tunnel between the leads and the voltage causes the board traces to dissolve by way of electrolysis like effect. The dab of RTV blocks this from ever happening....
Neat trick Eh???Now before I get declared insane for actually trying to prevent this catastrophe, please allow yourself a moment of thought about what I have described, and practice a thought experiment like good old Albert E. would do, and just give it try in your mind and see if it might fit...
At worse case it couldn't hurt, right ???... C
Oh on the bigger rail caps I have seen these break off at the leads, As big as those leads are they fail from shock and vibration. MY insane trick here is to place two dabs of RTV counter opposite to the connection leads, so when the cap is soldered, the RTV ad's two opposite connection points to the board that supply way more support and prevent shock - vibration from breaking the connections leads at the board surface.
The Big caps now have 4 points of connection, 2 via leads thru the board, and 2 to the surface opposite of the electrical leads connection. A 4 point connection is better than 2 any day of the week...
Now here again I have a thought experiment for you to try concerning those big rail caps. Take your fore finger, and reach over to each and everyone of those caps, and place your finger right in the center of the top of each of these big caps and Wiggle your finger, yes I said wiggle your finger back and forth.
If the cap moves back and forth under this pressure Your cap is NOT seated against the board surface and it will vibrate in your car to bass and pot-holes and speed bumps and whatever.
And with all this vibration those caps will snap off there leads right at the board surface where the stress has caused the metal to fatigue and stress fracture. Now if you simply had applied two little dabs of RTV counter opposite to the connection leads this cap could not wiggle now could it. It would have a 4 point connection preventing such a thing from happening now wouldn't it???,,, Just a thought experiment for you to try,,,Good luck...
Now for removal of My installed caps you start by removing all solder solder by normal methods such as wick and suction < You would do this anyway even without the RTV fix> .
Then you simply slip a exacto knife edge under the cap and gentle slice the RTV seal into, thus making it possible to pull the cap off the board freely.
As for any residual RTV left over just use a wedge type eraser like your secretary uses to simple erase the residual RTV off the board...VIOLA simple and sweet, based all on the KiSS < Keep It Simple Stupid> principal of prevention. RTV and pen and pencil erasers, great inventions especially when used in unorthodox methods.....
Your Honor I rest my case.... C
To My detractors:
Please any of you that don't like what I have had to say here tonight, just don't read it. Blow it off as a old mans ramblings, or whatever. But please don't comment on things you know nothing about at all. Its just a waste for forum time and space for you to argue with me and my points of view about how to improve electronics methods and such.
I post my methods freely as I have been using them for YEARS and I have had the time and training and results to back my statements up with facts, and time based evidence in the field. Plus I'm just getting to frickin tired of arguing with those of you that know it all, and can do it all, and have done it all. I still have not figured out why your here busting my rocks with all that experience and knowledge you have going for you.... You should be out spending all the money they pay you for being so smart....
Tom:
This single post might possibly be saved as a addendum to cap replacement in the How to area. Its not a complete how to < Its big as Hell anyway> , but it has its merits in prevention. Perhaps you can think up a catchy name, maybe edit it some, to save it for those that want to actually try to improve on cap installation methods and hopefully prevent board damage. A ounce of prevention is worth a pound of fiberglass cure.
I don't think it would fit with Doc's tutorial very well, as it does not have his seal of approval, but I think my ideas have their own merit and perhaps you and others might also feel this also. I leave this completely up to your discretion.....C
What the hell is this comment? This is totally unlike you Cecil. I have never yet seen your ego get in the way of your knowledge, but I guess there is a first time for everything.To My detractors:
Please any of you that don't like what I have had to say here tonight, just don't read it. Blow it off as a old mans ramblings, or whatever. But please don't comment on things you know nothing about at all. Its just a waste for forum time and space for you to argue with me and my points of view about how to improve electronics methods and such.
I post my methods freely as I have been using them for YEARS and I have had the time and training and results to back my statements up with facts, and time based evidence in the field. Plus I'm just getting to frickin tired of arguing with those of you that know it all, and can do it all, and have done it all. I still have not figured out why your here busting my rocks with all that experience and knowledge you have going for you.... You should be out spending all the money they pay you for being so smart....
It would be very dangerous for anyone to take your comments as fact, simply because you say they are. I have found on more than one occasion you to be dead wrong with your point, but I avoid the argument, as everyone has lost all respect for me and they would chew me up just for disagreeing with you.
The bottom line is, you have more experience with these topics than anyone else here. No one even comes close. But, that does not make you automatically right about everything, and if no one is ever willing to question you, everyone looses out in the end.
As for the last segment of your epic post, why would anything you state not “Meet my seal of approval”?
I agree with your whole cap post nearly 100%. Every tip, trick, and technique you ever mention has merit, and I take into consideration. Sometimes your techniques are pure snake oil, but in the land of audio, so much stuff is snake oil anyway, why not go the extra mile for the heck of it.
Any tutorial I come up with is by no means the final say on what should or has to be done. All I know is it is stuff which has worked for me, and if it give someone else out there enough guidance to fix their own amp, it will put the same smile on their face as it did on mine when I fixed my first amp only four years ago.
All I can say is what ever you do, don’t make the same mistakes I have made in the land of car audio. I bought into my own bullshit so much all I liked doing was reading my own posts from high atop my pedestal. Well, that world crashed and burned and I was presented with a stiff awaking, and a full reality check.
Car audio is full of all types, and the only way all of us can continue to enjoy it is if we put our differences aside so we can focus on what we really care about (car audio), not clashing of personalities.
I agree with your whole cap post nearly 100%. Every tip, trick, and technique you ever mention has merit, and I take into consideration. Sometimes your techniques are pure snake oil, but in the land of audio, so much stuff is snake oil anyway, why not go the extra mile for the heck of it.
Any tutorial I come up with is by no means the final say on what should or has to be done. All I know is it is stuff which has worked for me, and if it give someone else out there enough guidance to fix their own amp, it will put the same smile on their face as it did on mine when I fixed my first amp only four years ago.
All I can say is what ever you do, don’t make the same mistakes I have made in the land of car audio. I bought into my own bullshit so much all I liked doing was reading my own posts from high atop my pedestal. Well, that world crashed and burned and I was presented with a stiff awaking, and a full reality check.
Car audio is full of all types, and the only way all of us can continue to enjoy it is if we put our differences aside so we can focus on what we really care about (car audio), not clashing of personalities.
It would be very dangerous for anyone to take your comments as fact, simply because you say they are. I have found on more than one occasion you to be dead wrong with your point, but I avoid the argument, as everyone has lost all respect for me and they would chew me up just for disagreeing with you.
hey Doc,
i dunno why you feel this way , but I persoanlly have always had the utmost respect for you and always look forward to your advice.
Dunno what has happened but I choose not to get involved in the politics.
AKA Shaheenk
WOW !!!
Eric,
My thoughts about the worthiness of posting my above rant near yours was based solely on the fact that it was not presented in as professional manner such as yours and therefore might not be suitable to augment your very professional level of presentation. It was not the same level of information exchange. Hence my verbal motion to Tom to edit freely as he saw fit to save any valuable information that may be had within the posting.
I would not dare to tear down the wonderful work your have so diligently put forth over the years. My rant was about the facts of life of capacitors, and there failure prone nature. And tricks of the trade to hopefully resolve trouble before it begins. And how to possibly improve on the current assembly technics in use in the industry today. Some of which fall into serious question to me after all the things I have seen over the years.
As far as my information being fact or fiction, and its worthiness of being taken as factual, well what I see , is what I see. I can't expect you or anyone else to have my perspective in life and at my bench. If my post has hit a cord with you on a personal level then i have failed and my message is lost forever in petty personal short comings.
During my post I even called upon you to acknowledge the fact that all wet capacitors are prone to failure no matter how high grade and no matter how much they cost, and what published spec they aspire to achieve in writing.
As far as the factual nature of my statements, well my life long experience pores out so openly only to beat up upon lately by people that have no talent at all in the engineering field of which you and I both love so much.
Hence my comment about those that should not comment on things they know nothing about.
This clearly leaves you out of the equation Eric, by simple definition of the language itself. You have a engineering degree, thus you are not included in that statement. You have knowledge and experience and always have been willing to share it with all.
Now as I stated if you disagree with any of my ramblings please pass it off as the ramblings of a old man, and leave it at that. Somehow that was lost in the message.
My technical how to section was solely based on how I do it and why its better in my mind.
If I had been seeking a argument with you or any others it would have been in PM form out of respect. Respect I would show anyone that would allow it to be so.
Recently there have been those that clearly choose to argue, rather then simply view my data as what it is, life long experiences. Thats all I try to share. A been there and seen that sort laymen version of the reality that I experienced across my bench for many years.
I am just tired of fighting people, when I am simply trying to help others freely.
I have included a removable section to all of my tech level posts lately for those that choose to argue. Please see my other How to posts of recent.
If that includes you Eric it is by your own choice, not mine.
I choose not to challenge others in their post of tech. I choose to add only what I have seen and thought about over the many years of rebuilding peoples broken dreams....
Perhaps my labor of love can not be placed along side engineering works of art, but maybe the information can be found helpful to those of lesser experience and knowledge....
Now Eric , this is all me. I hope it clears the air for you and whatever misgivings that are gripping you currently. If not well I have tried my best to make it clear to you and others.
Eric,
My thoughts about the worthiness of posting my above rant near yours was based solely on the fact that it was not presented in as professional manner such as yours and therefore might not be suitable to augment your very professional level of presentation. It was not the same level of information exchange. Hence my verbal motion to Tom to edit freely as he saw fit to save any valuable information that may be had within the posting.
I would not dare to tear down the wonderful work your have so diligently put forth over the years. My rant was about the facts of life of capacitors, and there failure prone nature. And tricks of the trade to hopefully resolve trouble before it begins. And how to possibly improve on the current assembly technics in use in the industry today. Some of which fall into serious question to me after all the things I have seen over the years.
As far as my information being fact or fiction, and its worthiness of being taken as factual, well what I see , is what I see. I can't expect you or anyone else to have my perspective in life and at my bench. If my post has hit a cord with you on a personal level then i have failed and my message is lost forever in petty personal short comings.
During my post I even called upon you to acknowledge the fact that all wet capacitors are prone to failure no matter how high grade and no matter how much they cost, and what published spec they aspire to achieve in writing.
As far as the factual nature of my statements, well my life long experience pores out so openly only to beat up upon lately by people that have no talent at all in the engineering field of which you and I both love so much.
Hence my comment about those that should not comment on things they know nothing about.
This clearly leaves you out of the equation Eric, by simple definition of the language itself. You have a engineering degree, thus you are not included in that statement. You have knowledge and experience and always have been willing to share it with all.
Now as I stated if you disagree with any of my ramblings please pass it off as the ramblings of a old man, and leave it at that. Somehow that was lost in the message.
My technical how to section was solely based on how I do it and why its better in my mind.
If I had been seeking a argument with you or any others it would have been in PM form out of respect. Respect I would show anyone that would allow it to be so.
Recently there have been those that clearly choose to argue, rather then simply view my data as what it is, life long experiences. Thats all I try to share. A been there and seen that sort laymen version of the reality that I experienced across my bench for many years.
I am just tired of fighting people, when I am simply trying to help others freely.
I have included a removable section to all of my tech level posts lately for those that choose to argue. Please see my other How to posts of recent.
If that includes you Eric it is by your own choice, not mine.
I choose not to challenge others in their post of tech. I choose to add only what I have seen and thought about over the many years of rebuilding peoples broken dreams....
Perhaps my labor of love can not be placed along side engineering works of art, but maybe the information can be found helpful to those of lesser experience and knowledge....
Now Eric , this is all me. I hope it clears the air for you and whatever misgivings that are gripping you currently. If not well I have tried my best to make it clear to you and others.
Who exactly has been beating up on you then?
In all the post reading I have done here, not once have I seen anyone disagree with you, or argue with you. I am the only person who has ever disagreed with you, or called you out on anything.
So, with that in mind, I see your above post as directly targeting me as the one who disagrees with you, and has no clue what they are talking about.
If you see otherwise, then point out where I have gone wrong. Is there some hidden portion of this forum which I have not been noticing, and where people are constantly attacking you or your position on things?
Based on your wealth of knowledge, and in my opinion, no one has a right to attack you, but even the most uninformed person has the right to question you. When you are at the top of your game (which you are), you have to appease these people as well, as they are not to blame for their lack of knowledge on something. It becomes your responsibility to constantly explain and defend yourself. Trust me, I know. I got sick of it and reacted poorly in the past, which cost me a lot of ground.
To my knowledge, no one here other than myself has disagreed with you, or questioned you. If I am wrong, then point me in the direction of a thread where someone else is getting on your case, and I will chime in. Considering the fact you and I are in full agreement nearly 99% of the time, chances are I would joining your side and backing you up.
In all the post reading I have done here, not once have I seen anyone disagree with you, or argue with you. I am the only person who has ever disagreed with you, or called you out on anything.
So, with that in mind, I see your above post as directly targeting me as the one who disagrees with you, and has no clue what they are talking about.
If you see otherwise, then point out where I have gone wrong. Is there some hidden portion of this forum which I have not been noticing, and where people are constantly attacking you or your position on things?
Based on your wealth of knowledge, and in my opinion, no one has a right to attack you, but even the most uninformed person has the right to question you. When you are at the top of your game (which you are), you have to appease these people as well, as they are not to blame for their lack of knowledge on something. It becomes your responsibility to constantly explain and defend yourself. Trust me, I know. I got sick of it and reacted poorly in the past, which cost me a lot of ground.
To my knowledge, no one here other than myself has disagreed with you, or questioned you. If I am wrong, then point me in the direction of a thread where someone else is getting on your case, and I will chime in. Considering the fact you and I are in full agreement nearly 99% of the time, chances are I would joining your side and backing you up.
I just read through Cecil's message again and I don't think he was trying to call you out Eric, in fact, it looks like he was trying to back you up instead, though I see how you would think that. Cecil has gotten called out on some other tech threads recently, so he was definitely talking about others.
Cecil, if I could make a suggestion, don't bother pre-replying to those who might disagree with you, as there might not be anyone here who has an issue with what you are saying on this topic. Only if someone replies in disagreement, should you try to prove your point... otherwise you can just post your opinions as freely as you like. In my experience, pre-replying has only caused confusion as to who the argument was aimed at, exactly as it has now.
Cecil, if I could make a suggestion, don't bother pre-replying to those who might disagree with you, as there might not be anyone here who has an issue with what you are saying on this topic. Only if someone replies in disagreement, should you try to prove your point... otherwise you can just post your opinions as freely as you like. In my experience, pre-replying has only caused confusion as to who the argument was aimed at, exactly as it has now.
Last edited by stipud on Mon Nov 05, 2007 11:51 am, edited 1 time in total.
Try this one for a start:Eric D wrote:Who exactly has been beating up on you then?
In all the post reading I have done here, not once have I seen anyone disagree with you, or argue with you. I am the only person who has ever disagreed with you, or called you out on anything.
http://phoenixphorum.com/hey-guys-been- ... t3087.html
And your not a Ass, you were just unaware of some issues I am having with a limited few. So lighten up on yourself would ya ? Happy Birthday Eric
Thank you again Tom, I will refrain as per your suggestion. I will be around a little less for a while I got some personal issues crowding my judgment currently
Thank you again Tom, I will refrain as per your suggestion. I will be around a little less for a while I got some personal issues crowding my judgment currently