Shit

Post by **stipud** » Thu Jan 17, 2008 6:02 pm

Just got my nice shiny new (to me) Ti1200.1AL... but I heard some rattling inside of the case. Wonder what that may be?

So I cracked it open and...

....

Post by **stipud** » Thu Jan 17, 2008 6:03 pm

The pins are still completely intact. It just fell out.

Post by **stipud** » Thu Jan 17, 2008 6:04 pm

So... how would one go about resoldering such a part?

Post by **bdubs767** » Thu Jan 17, 2008 6:14 pm

that is one sexy amp...

lucky it was only that

Post by **fuzzysnuggleduck** » Thu Jan 17, 2008 6:18 pm

Holy hot sex.

Post by **stipud** » Thu Jan 17, 2008 6:21 pm

It looks like they used surface mounting for the cap too... I will try to take the board out later to see if I can maybe possibly hopefully solder it from the back side.

Here she is with her clothes on...

Post by **bdubs767** » Thu Jan 17, 2008 6:23 pm

Do I see you having a RSDc in the back round?

Also you shoudl be able to take the board out of the case and re solder fromt he back side. I took a ti1000.2 apart once and looked like it would be a simple job that way.

Post by **Wakeup** » Thu Jan 17, 2008 6:53 pm

Ya, I didnt hear any rattling here....so maybe upon shipping? but then again I didnt shake it like mad or anything....Sorry if it was my fault.

PGsta14me · Post by **PGsta14me** » Thu Jan 17, 2008 7:03 pm

oooooooooooh. . . .Nice amp

Yeah I think she's pretty much a lost cause, you're going to have to get rid of it. . .send it to me and I'll take it off your hands

You may have to use a large(r) tip on your soldering iron if you have problems getting the solder to flow. All I know is that if one of those leads attaches to ground-plane it can be tough to get that solder to take. Use extra flux!! Probably obvious, but just trying to help

tristan20 · Post by **tristan20** » Thu Jan 17, 2008 7:51 pm

A loose cap is better than a leaky one

1moreamp · Post by **1moreamp** » Thu Jan 17, 2008 7:57 pm

Hi Tom,
Just stick it back in paying attention to polarity. Then take out the screws holding the board and slip the whole board forward towards you until it stops then lift front to back, and she should come right out.

Then flip it over and start re soldering till you feel comfortable with your new toy.

PM me if you need anything....C

Post by **stipud** » Thu Jan 17, 2008 8:12 pm

PGsta14me wrote:You may have to use a large(r) tip on your soldering iron if you have problems getting the solder to flow. All I know is that if one of those leads attaches to ground-plane it can be tough to get that solder to take. Use extra flux!! Probably obvious, but just trying to help

That is exactly what I did.

It turns out about 1-2mm of the leads were broken off and still stuck in the solder under the board. After removing the solder and pushing the cap through, I barely had two little nubs exposed to work with.

Needless to say it was a pain in the butt to resolder, but I did it... and it's holding on super tight (for now).

Moral of the story... even quadruple boxed and surrounded with air packs, these things can still break.

The Ti1200.1 is an interesting design. There are two separate sections of amps... each with 8 powersupply mosfets and 8 large BJTs. It didn't have the ridiculous bank of rail caps that the 900.7 has... only two per side.

1moreamp · Post by **1moreamp** » Thu Jan 17, 2008 9:11 pm

Its a bridged amp design, and by the way "You have done good my friend"
The nubs are not supposed to stick out very much above the board, I know cause I cut then flush all the time, or bend them over and clip them clean so to look neat then In apply lots of heat and some solder so it will reflow.

"You have done well Grasshopper"

And I am glad you are impressed with the difficulty I sometimes run into, Most folks don't think about the things us techy's walk into. We have shared time now....C

PS I hope you got the polarity correct, the square solder pad is positive so the round is negative, a mirror of the other side....C

Post by **fuzzysnuggleduck** » Thu Jan 17, 2008 10:28 pm

So... this begs the question... are you going to install it?

500.4 on the elites and 1200.1 on the RSDc, right? Or are you going to try two monsters in the same install (900.7)?

Post by **Wakeup** » Fri Jan 18, 2008 2:16 am

Again sorry Tom if it was me...I dont think i did it, but maybe upon transporting to Brian...maybe not...I dont recall anything moving around. Anyway glad it got fixed! Sorry for the trouble.

Haz · Post by **Haz** » Fri Jan 18, 2008 3:49 am

Great to know you found a Ti1200.1 AL too. We're have the same amps in the same housings. I just looked on ampguts and the inside of the ti1200.1 looks almost identical to a 1000.2:

http://www.realmofexcursion.com/ampguts ... _Ti1000.2/

And how light is that amp stipud, the first time I picked it up, i almost flinged it up in the air.

Haz

MINI COOP · Post by **MINI COOP** » Fri Jan 18, 2008 6:25 am

it are realy horny amps, but I don't need such an amount of power... not yet

In the futher I want to try to work with 2 PG zx 500 amps on 1 subwoofer (dvc offcourse

). but that are just dreams for the moment, I don't have the money for it now (student)

have fun with it!!

Post by **stipud** » Fri Jan 18, 2008 7:55 am

fuzzysnuggleduck wrote:So... this begs the question... are you going to install it?

Nah, it went straight under my bed once I patched it up. The 500.4 fits WAAAAY too well in my car, and I have nowhere to mount a 900.7 and 1200.1.

I might be buying a second car though, since Wendy has started tutoring and has to drive around the city, so we'll see if that gets any goodies.

OldSchoolFool · Post by **OldSchoolFool** » Fri Jan 18, 2008 8:24 am

I am suprised there was no RTV (silicone) around the caps. Usually it is very convenient to place a big bead right between them where they almost touch during production. This should have had that, those big caps need the support. I suggest adding some silicone there, and even at the bottom if there's a clear spot for it.

Post by **Bfowler** » Fri Jan 18, 2008 8:51 am

you could mount it to the box you make for the RSDc. that way its still a take out bass system and you can put in the rsd10 for the snow trips.

im sorry too. i didnt hear anything when i boxed it up, and really tried to secure the hell out of it. was the box mashed or anything?

Post by **stipud** » Fri Jan 18, 2008 8:59 am

Bfowler wrote:you could mount it to the box you make for the RSDc. that way its still a take out bass system and you can put in the rsd10 for the snow trips.

im sorry too. i didnt hear anything when i boxed it up, and really tried to secure the hell out of it. was the box mashed or anything?

Nope... all the boxes were in pristine condition.

The solder joints looked a bit cold though... it was probably an amp flaw. Definitely not blaming you or Steve!! Thank you guys very much for hooking me up

Post by **Wakeup** » Sat Jan 19, 2008 2:52 am

No prob. It was a bargain for sure. Glad it was just only that one cap. Have you tested it to see if it works?!

Phoenixcolt · Post by **Phoenixcolt** » Mon Jan 28, 2008 10:21 pm

Man I am sooo jealous, I regret selling every piece of Titanium I ever owned including a 1200.1 at one point. I wish I never had to tear down the colt...all I have left is my Ti 51 Elite comps now in the box in my closet and a Ti12D chilling at the side of my desk

.

Good for you man, I hope you find an awesome use for that eventually...I know you will.

Post by **Wakeup** » Tue Jan 29, 2008 2:23 am

Ya that sux phoenix...I dont want to get rid of my TI gear....At least not any time soon YET...
Most of my install is TI...
TI 900.7, TI 951, TI 6, TI 15 farad power core, TI DEQ30, TI Bass cube....TI 1200.1 (not really in use...but is a place holder...)
And have a spare 900.7.