
power wire question
- capitolj80
- Posts: 392
- Joined: Wed Feb 13, 2008 1:08 pm
- Location: Morris, IL
power wire question
Would a 2awg power wire run from the battery to the truck then split into a 4awg and an 8awg with a dist block be a good setup to run the rsd1200.1 and the rsd500.4? 120amp fuse at the battery then a 50amp on the 8awg lead and an 80amp on the 4awg lead (fuses slightly underrated for safety). it seems about right to me. Someone tell me if for some reason that wouldn't be good...or if i'm right on...peace out dudes 

what if the hokey pokey really is what it's all about?
- capitolj80
- Posts: 392
- Joined: Wed Feb 13, 2008 1:08 pm
- Location: Morris, IL
sweet..sounds good... should the 2awg be enuff as the main lead or is that maybe a lil thin for this? the total ampage draw between the two is 150 I believe and the total rms wattage aroung 1300. it seems the 2awg is kinda on the cusp of being just right or being just a lil too small...or maybe i'm just being paranoid 

Last edited by capitolj80 on Fri Mar 28, 2008 8:40 pm, edited 1 time in total.
what if the hokey pokey really is what it's all about?
- capitolj80
- Posts: 392
- Joined: Wed Feb 13, 2008 1:08 pm
- Location: Morris, IL
2 gauge will be ok, but 0 would be better 
There's no such thing as "too big of a wire"
That RSD 1200.1 is capable of 1500 watts quite easily. The more robust your power distribution is, the more wattage it will give you. This means upgrading your battery ground in the engine bay as well (to at LEAST the same gauge wire), and the battery to alternator wire as well!
2 gauge would be "sufficient" though, so if you already have it, I would run with that. However, if you are buying new stuff, the cost difference is negligible, and I would just go with the 0.

There's no such thing as "too big of a wire"

That RSD 1200.1 is capable of 1500 watts quite easily. The more robust your power distribution is, the more wattage it will give you. This means upgrading your battery ground in the engine bay as well (to at LEAST the same gauge wire), and the battery to alternator wire as well!
2 gauge would be "sufficient" though, so if you already have it, I would run with that. However, if you are buying new stuff, the cost difference is negligible, and I would just go with the 0.
http://www.bcae1.com/images/swfs/system ... istant.swf
I know power wire is just simple math but this cart is pretty cool. You put in the lenth of the wire and if the amp is a class A/B or D.
I know power wire is just simple math but this cart is pretty cool. You put in the lenth of the wire and if the amp is a class A/B or D.
- capitolj80
- Posts: 392
- Joined: Wed Feb 13, 2008 1:08 pm
- Location: Morris, IL
nice calculator ELmx...to bad i dont really know the specifics on some of the info it wanted right now...cool, though....Stipud...i didnt buy yet, so I'll prolly go with the 0awg then...the bigger this wire gets, the tougher its gonna be to run through the car and get through the firewall...someone should totally do a "how to" for running power wire when it's to big to run under the side runners....that would be awesome!!
what if the hokey pokey really is what it's all about?