Subs

Wink · Post by **Wink** » Sun Feb 04, 2007 11:33 am

Are subs better placed upright facing back or front, or better to face them pointing upward toward ur roof?

Post by **Francious70** » Sun Feb 04, 2007 11:54 am

Really depends on your sub, and your car.

Post by **Bfowler** » Sun Feb 04, 2007 12:15 pm

normally they are better firing backwards, it gives the wave longer to develop. although, if you have fold down seats or a skipass, sealing it into the car (not just facing it toward the seats, but SEALED out of the trunk) is better still, imo

what kind of car is it going into?

Wink · Post by **Wink** » Sun Feb 04, 2007 12:25 pm

they are 2 10" PG octane ZR

Going into a VW Golf Hatchback

Post by **Bfowler** » Sun Feb 04, 2007 12:30 pm

fire them back for sure then.

after you get them installed you can try switching the + and - wires on the amp to switch the phase and see which way sounds better

twisted · Post by **twisted** » Sun Feb 04, 2007 1:34 pm

welcome to the forum sir

i too would face them towards the rear.

HoseHead · Post by **HoseHead** » Sun Feb 04, 2007 2:22 pm

Wink wrote:Are subs better placed upright facing back or front, or better to face them pointing upward toward ur roof?

Trial and error.
Don't secure them in place until you try different locations.
As mentioned, prepare to phase invert your voice coils as well. Some processors provide 180 degree inversion with an on board switch. For instance, a PG 406A Crossover provides phase inversion for both mids and subs when configured for 3-way operation.
Each car and each sub has unique characteristics so there is no "right way". The "right way" is the configuration that produces the sound you prefer.

HH

Wink · Post by **Wink** » Sun Feb 04, 2007 2:57 pm

ok cool thanks a lot..

so reverse the phase i just go to the amp and connect the (+) to the (-) and the (-) on the (+)?

i dont have to change the wires on the actual coils or the box?

Mastiff · Post by **Mastiff** » Sun Feb 04, 2007 3:33 pm

Wink wrote:they are 2 10" PG octane ZR

Going into a VW Golf Hatchback

what year ?

Phoenixcolt · Post by **Phoenixcolt** » Sun Feb 04, 2007 5:09 pm

Wink wrote:ok cool thanks a lot..

so reverse the phase i just go to the amp and connect the (+) to the (-) and the (-) on the (+)?

i dont have to change the wires on the actual coils or the box?

Yes, right at the amp.

I am getting ready to put 1 RSd12 in the VW Golf I just picked up 2 weeks ago. Can't wait : ). I will definitely run the sub facing the hatch, like they said above, it gives the bass waves more time to develop. Hatchback bass usually sounds pretty sweet opened to the whole car like that. I opened up my trunk in my other car to the rest of the cabin to get a more hatchback bass sound. I bet the Golf will sound real nice.

Wink · Post by **Wink** » Sun Feb 04, 2007 6:55 pm

its a 97

Mastiff · Post by **Mastiff** » Sun Feb 04, 2007 7:21 pm

MKIII with a 2.slow ? got pics?

this the one i want next

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/1991-VW- ... dZViewItem

Hontzo_MD · Post by **Hontzo_MD** » Sun Feb 04, 2007 7:48 pm

Wink wrote:they are 2 10" PG octane ZR

Going into a VW Golf Hatchback

Welcome aboard. Also jump over to the lounge and get your vote in on the VW poll.

It will be a matter of what you listen to as for firing them to the front or back. I had a 90 Golf, a pair of 10's and an XS2500 was plenty of output firing to the rear. I always fire to the rear, typically maximizes what you have.

Hontzo_MD · Post by **Hontzo_MD** » Sun Feb 04, 2007 7:52 pm

Mastiff wrote:MKIII with a 2.slow ? got pics?

this the one i want next

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/1991-VW- ... dZViewItem

MMMMMM, there is something very cool about that, there once was one in a mag that didnt look like it was all Jethro'd out. Drop it about 4-5 inches, put a vr6 in it. Thats a car.

I always loved the A2 platform.

Post by **VW337** » Mon Feb 05, 2007 9:25 am

Syncro = bad................

Unfortunately VW did not account for independent rotational speeds of individual wheels. Syncro only works on wet or slick roads or flat straight lines, if you corner on dry pavement you are destroying the system as it literally chews itself up do to each wheels inability to rotate independently.

Post by **fuzzysnuggleduck** » Mon Feb 05, 2007 9:48 am

VW337 wrote:Syncro = bad................

Unfortunately VW did not account for independent rotational speeds of individual wheels. Syncro only works on wet or slick roads or flat straight lines, if you corner on dry pavement you are destroying the system as it literally chews itself up do to each wheels inability to rotate independently.

The same is true of any locked differential... like my 4Runner. The key is NOT to have it in 4 wheel drive when you're on dry pavement. Assuming of course the syncro has some sort of way of selecting 2 or 4 wheel mode.

I drive in 4 wheel mode on slightly wet and snowy road no problem, you just don't want to tool around on anything dry and high traction that way.

Post by **VW337** » Mon Feb 05, 2007 9:58 am

fuzzysnuggleduck wrote:
VW337 wrote:Syncro = bad................

Unfortunately VW did not account for independent rotational speeds of individual wheels. Syncro only works on wet or slick roads or flat straight lines, if you corner on dry pavement you are destroying the system as it literally chews itself up do to each wheels inability to rotate independently.
The same is true of any locked differential... like my 4Runner. The key is NOT to have it in 4 wheel drive when you're on dry pavement. Assuming of course the syncro has some sort of way of selecting 2 or 4 wheel mode.

I drive in 4 wheel mode on slightly wet and snowy road no problem, you just don't want to tool around on anything dry and high traction that way.

VW did not provide an off switch as it is a fully mechanical system, at least in the applications I had seen.

Post by **fuzzysnuggleduck** » Mon Feb 05, 2007 10:07 am

VW337 wrote:
fuzzysnuggleduck wrote:
VW337 wrote:Syncro = bad................

Unfortunately VW did not account for independent rotational speeds of individual wheels. Syncro only works on wet or slick roads or flat straight lines, if you corner on dry pavement you are destroying the system as it literally chews itself up do to each wheels inability to rotate independently.
The same is true of any locked differential... like my 4Runner. The key is NOT to have it in 4 wheel drive when you're on dry pavement. Assuming of course the syncro has some sort of way of selecting 2 or 4 wheel mode.

I drive in 4 wheel mode on slightly wet and snowy road no problem, you just don't want to tool around on anything dry and high traction that way.
VW did not provide an off switch as it is a fully mechanical system, at least in the applications I had seen.

Ah, that's too bad. I have a little lever beside my transmission shifter that allows me to change from 2 wheel open diff to 4 wheel locked diff high and 4 wheel locked diff low all on the fly, it's a very nice feature to have in a transfer case

Edit: Well looking into this some more I found out that I don't really know enough about my 4Runner to comment

I though I had locked diffs but it looks like I might just lack a center diff so that my front and rears get the same torque but my rear differential is a Torsen style and I'm not sure about the front... I don't think there is a diff up there either, making 4x4 mode in my 4Runner basically a locked 4x4.

Yeah... time to read up some more.

Subs

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