Main ground

bigbassman · Post by **bigbassman** » Sun Feb 04, 2007 6:13 pm

50 ft of 2/0 here.. dual power and ground runs front to back...

Loyd L.

Mastiff · Post by **Mastiff** » Sun Feb 04, 2007 6:26 pm

no he is talking about the power and ground leads from the welder

Post by **Francious70** » Sun Feb 04, 2007 9:30 pm

Ahsmo wrote:anyone tried welding cable? stuff is nice and flexable

My 2/0 is welding cable. Most flexible wire I've ever dealt with.

rolandk · Post by **rolandk** » Mon Feb 05, 2007 9:29 am

Autosound 2000 tech brief says that the alternator is the best ground point since its the source of energy when the engine is running, not the battery.

Post by **VW337** » Mon Feb 05, 2007 9:54 am

rolandk wrote:.......the alternator is the best ground point since its the source of energy when the engine is running, not the battery.

............that is why I use 1/0 + & - from the alternator to the battery then out to the Audio system.

Post by **bdubs767** » Mon Feb 05, 2007 10:07 am

VW337 wrote:
rolandk wrote:.......the alternator is the best ground point since its the source of energy when the engine is running, not the battery.
............that is why I use 1/0 + & - from the alternator to the battery then out to the Audio system.

Dont you have to go from the alt groudn to the frame to ground everything?

Post by **VW337** » Mon Feb 05, 2007 3:39 pm

Alt to bat, separate cable from bat to chassis, separate cable from bat to audio.......

Post by **Francious70** » Mon Feb 05, 2007 4:35 pm

My configuration is... from the bat + to the distro block to the amps to the ground distro block to the frame at the front wheel directly connected to a frame to bat -

Post by **stipud** » Mon Feb 05, 2007 4:42 pm

http://photo.stipud.com/stereo/saab/battery-connect.JPG

0 gauge power and ground for the alt. 0 gauge ground to the frame. 0 gauge to the fuse (left of battery), 2 gauge to the amp (ran out of 0), 2 gauge ground in the trunk.

Works pretty well, but I still get dimming, even with a 200 amp alt. I think my grounding spot in the rear may not be the best, but I put it right above the strut, as I assumed this would be the most solid area.

Post by **Bfowler** » Mon Feb 05, 2007 4:47 pm

the problem isn't your grounding spot....its the RF logo near your battery.

that is also to blame for the mechanical issues your car had earlier on.

True story

Post by **stipud** » Mon Feb 05, 2007 5:30 pm

Wouldn't be a problem if people stopped "borrowing" my 0 gauge for their cars, leaving me with nothing. I had everything ready, and then realized that I was missing a good 20ft of 0 gauge, and my fuse block. Fabulous! That Rockford kit was a "steal" at $120... ugh. So much for having all stinger wiring, with PG amps and speakers (temporary ID sub

)

HoseHead · Post by **HoseHead** » Mon Feb 05, 2007 5:47 pm

rolandk wrote:Autosound 2000 tech brief says that the alternator is the best ground point since its the source of energy when the engine is running, not the battery.

Not an untrue statement. However, if you install a quality 0ga ground between the engine, the chassis and the body, you've created a single point ground throughout the vehicle, meaning the electrical potential difference is equal throughout, therefore errant current (noise) will not be conducting across these different areas where it can be induced into your audio gear, then into your ear, driving you bonkers, making you cranky and irritable. It's not pretty.

A lead acid battery is also one of the most efficient noise filters around and it's free - use it. I suggest distributing any high performance audio gear from battery as I described earlier.

HH

HoseHead · Post by **HoseHead** » Mon Feb 05, 2007 5:52 pm

Mastiff wrote:no he is talking about the power and ground leads from the welder

Perfect. But they ain't pretty like Stinger or PG wire.
I have a set of booster cables made by a aircraft mechanic friend.
00Ga and they stay flexible at -30. Outstanding.

HH

Mastiff · Post by **Mastiff** » Tue Feb 06, 2007 4:38 am

HoseHead wrote:
Mastiff wrote:no he is talking about the power and ground leads from the welder
Perfect. But they ain't pretty like Stinger or PG wire.
I have a set of booster cables made by a aircraft mechanic friend.
00Ga and they stay flexible at -30. Outstanding.

HH

tell me about it I wish I would have grabed some cable from one of our GPU's when we ditched the EMB120 airframe.

btw who does he work for ?

eyesofra · Post by **eyesofra** » Tue Apr 17, 2007 7:33 am

VW337 wrote:Battery to the Amp, however you'll need to ground all other audio devices at the amp in this case to avoid ground loops.

err mind if this is a silly question guys, but do we consider the HU in this.

I've got 2 amps in the system ; the front comp amp is under the front passenger seat and the sub amp is in the trunk.

Currently , the front amp is run on a 4awg wire grounded to chasis
The sub amp runs over a 0awg wire also grounded to chassis.
Is it ok to run 2 separate ground cables directly to the battery from each amp ?

Post by **Bfowler** » Tue Apr 17, 2007 7:58 am

eyesofra wrote: err mind if this is a silly question guys, but do we consider the HU in this.

if you dont have any noise in your system, the dont fix what isnt broke, but if you do have nosie. yes.

eyesofra wrote:
Currently , the front amp is run on a 4awg wire grounded to chasis
The sub amp runs over a 0awg wire also grounded to chassis.
Is it ok to run 2 separate ground cables directly to the battery from each amp ?[/quote

it sure is. if you are using old Coax style rca's though, you might pick up some noise if the cable is too close to the rca's

eyesofra · Post by **eyesofra** » Tue Apr 17, 2007 10:53 am

Bfowler ,i do have a little whinning noise left in the system.
Not too loud but its there.

I've separated the power and RCA cables run as far as possible.

And recently upgraded the freebie RCA to audiophile-grade Audioquest Diamondback 2m run for the front and streetwires high grade ZN9 5m run for the sub amp.
All these are braided types and i believe they provide reasonable amount of noise reduction and shielding.

So the only thing i can think of causing the noise is the grounding but i could be wrong.
The grounding is done at the seat belt bolt that screws down to the chassis done by a local installer.
Same way for both the amps, upfront and at the back.
He did scrape off the paint at those points though.

Advice guys ??