AVG power rating on components these days? & Other quest

Stereo Junkie · Post by **Stereo Junkie** » Tue Apr 29, 2008 9:56 pm

Does any one know what the average power rating on components is these days?

I am also wanting to know if there are any component sets that sound like Polk Audio speakers, ie no metal cones or metallic sounds. I know that some of you are big into JL audio and PG components so any suggestions would be great.

I am going to change my install to include either the 12 or 13.5 TW5 from JL in the doors and change my full range 6.5 and 4 full range Polk Audio for a component set and I am just doing my planning.

Thanks,

Stereo Junkie

capitolj80 · Post by **capitolj80** » Wed Apr 30, 2008 9:49 am

well, like any speakers, the power handling can vary quite a bit from one component system to another. For any givin brand, the lower end joby prolly gets 40-70 rms and the higher end model getting around 100 or better. so far, i dont have any personal experience with comps...i'm gonna be runnin my first set in the near future (rsd6.5)...so i'd have to regurgitate someone elses opinion...i know caraudiomag.com does some pretty in-depth and impartial reviews...they make be a good place to check out for the goods on some of this stuff.

Stereo Junkie · Post by **Stereo Junkie** » Wed Apr 30, 2008 10:01 am

Completely expected and I guess I needed a range b/c some components are claiming very large numbers that are greater than 150 Watt. Maybe that is peak or maybe that is where it will melt I don't know.

I also have questions on the components about how ohms are calculated on them as well as if it is benficial to have the tweeter and mid-woofer on separate channels?

Anyone else on the latter?

Thanks,
Stereo Junkie

Post by **Bfowler** » Wed Apr 30, 2008 10:04 am

75 still seems to be the standard. even on my Ti-elites, 75 did a decent job.

PG has used silk domes on their last few Componet offerings, which i really like.

which polk set are you looking at?

Tcguy85 · Post by **Tcguy85** » Wed Apr 30, 2008 5:47 pm

i got 300 a side for my rsd comps.

they like it.

don't pay attention to power ratings.

tsonka · Post by **tsonka** » Wed Apr 30, 2008 6:10 pm

I have Polk componets ......... dont like em, never have, never will

Stereo Junkie · Post by **Stereo Junkie** » Thu May 01, 2008 5:12 am

I currently have the full range polks:
Polk Audio Ex Series (EX402a and EX652a)
with the 6.5 in the door of the S-10 pickup and the 4 in the column of the extended cab.

I have an M44 powering them and when I turn it up the 6.5 seem to come up short. I am not sure if it is the Polk's being underpowered or if one of the speakers is bad. Either way I either need more power for the existing Polks like a MS-275 or both speakers and amps.

I currently have the two 13w7 in the S-10 and I feel I need to increase the mid-base and higher end to keep up.

Thanks,
Stereo Junkie

PS. I was looking at the SR series from Polk but man are they expensive! Still the 6.5 component.

Post by **fuzzysnuggleduck** » Thu May 01, 2008 7:56 am

I have the RSd6cs bridged off my M44 and they sound great and get enough power for my needs, however, as stated in this thread, there are people throwing 300W per channel at them and they keep on lickin'

Stereo Junkie · Post by **Stereo Junkie** » Thu May 01, 2008 8:39 am

Fuzzysnuggleduck,

Wouldn't bridging loose the left to right audio? IE only leave front to rear fading?

Post by **Bfowler** » Thu May 01, 2008 8:50 am

^you run the rca's out of the deck as left and right, and at the amp you plug one into front and one into rear, still makes a stereo signal.

the deck can't tell that the amp is front and rear, it is still two distinct channels

Stereo Junkie · Post by **Stereo Junkie** » Thu May 01, 2008 8:56 am

Ahhhh

I welcome your stupifoo that you have so well delt upon me.

Man I can not believe that I didn't think of that yet.

Stereo Junkie · Post by **Stereo Junkie** » Thu May 01, 2008 9:51 am

I can see where that would work with components, but what about my specific situation

I currently have four speakers one to each channel.
All the speakers are 4 ohms.
6.5 handle ~150W (according to documentation)
4 handle ~70W (again according to documentation)

If bridge the left and right sides to the rear and front respectively with the nifty single rca that Bfowler indicated that would pose a 2ohm or 8 ohm load depending on parallel or series respectively.

Would I blow the 4's running roughly double the recommended power to them in the 2 ohm scenario and would the M44 handle this?
If I went with the 8 ohm option wouldn't I be giving the speakers only around ~80W?

Thanks in advance,
Stereo Junkie

Post by **Bfowler** » Thu May 01, 2008 10:02 am

yeah...that will make the ~2ohms bridged, which is bad news to most 4 channels amps, plus you wouldnet bebale to attinuate the 4's vs the 6.5's

you are better off either

A: bridging the m44 to just the 6.5's and running the 4's off the deck

B running it as a standard 4 channel, 1 channel to each speaker

Stereo Junkie · Post by **Stereo Junkie** » Thu May 01, 2008 10:41 am

I could also connect both 6.5 and 4 set in parallel to the left and right front to present a 2 ohm load not bridged. I've done this before and the 4" seemed to take it okay, but not sure about the amp.

I would only be giving it around ~110W right? overpowering the 4 but underpowering the 6.5?

Sorry to be so long winded but I am trying to get this right.

Post by **fuzzysnuggleduck** » Thu May 01, 2008 10:52 am

If you're determined to run both the 6.5s and the 4s off of the M44, I would leave it as you have it already.

If you're willing to let the 4s run off of deck power, you can easily bridge the M44 and give the 6.5s a lot more power and still run it at ~ 4ohms.

I run my rear 5" speakers off of deck power but have them turned way down most of the time since I don't often have rear seat passengers and I prefer my sound stage to be up front as much as possible.

Stereo Junkie · Post by **Stereo Junkie** » Thu May 01, 2008 11:50 am

I would like to provide the correct amount of power with headroom for both sets of speakers. If it is possible to do that with out spending more money then great, otherwise I am open to ideas.