I finally got around to updating/finishing my leaking capacitor tutorial. If anyone follows any of my methods, and runs into issues, let me know and I will try to update the tutorial to cover possible solutions.
nice to see you work with a soldering iron again eric, awsome job as usual, it's these kinda threads that made me have a got at fixing my own amps when i started to tinkle with my own soldering iron
Ti1 headunit (unique)
Outlaw in crate.
2x original shrouded ms2250's.
Route 66 in box + custom m100 to match.
Roadster 66 in flight case
Octane LE in box.
Reactor #186 in flight case.
Reactor EQ232
Ti400.2 AL
AX204A + EQ232 + ZPX2 + TBA set
ZCS6 component set
Tantrum+Titanium bass cubes
Ti12d Elite sub
DD5 + DD10 + 6 Ti blocks!
Quick Question,
I'm replacing my caps on a M50 and when I tried soldering the new caps on I can't seem to get the solder to hold the cap leads down on the bottom of the amp. Does anyone have any ideas? I used the Kester 44 solder and did everything in the tutorial?
Any help would be greatly appreciated.
Brian
Sorry, i don't have my camera available right now. What I mean is when I apply the solder to the leads sticking out on the bottom of the amp board the solder only sticks to the leads and does not attach to the amp board itself. When i wiggle the caps the leads and the solder will wiggle in the hole. When I look at the tutorial it shows how Eric's solder is a pool that covers a little surface area of the amp. mine is just a ball of solder that only attaches to the lead.
Hope that helps.
probebly using the wrong solder, i'm not familiar with that stuff but i use good old fasioned lead stuff as it flows nicely and it needs to so the solder goes through to the other side to make contact propely.
Ti1 headunit (unique)
Outlaw in crate.
2x original shrouded ms2250's.
Route 66 in box + custom m100 to match.
Roadster 66 in flight case
Octane LE in box.
Reactor #186 in flight case.
Reactor EQ232
Ti400.2 AL
AX204A + EQ232 + ZPX2 + TBA set
ZCS6 component set
Tantrum+Titanium bass cubes
Ti12d Elite sub
DD5 + DD10 + 6 Ti blocks!
What kind of soldering iron are you using? Is the tip clean and tinned?
Kester 44 has lead, and is rosin core. It will do the job just fine.
Sounds like the pads may have lifted removing the old capacitors, or the soldering iron isn't transferring enough heat (either dirty tip or cheap $15 soldering iron).
Ok so I tried different types of solder and nothing has worked. It looks like on one of them the pads may not be there anymore. Is there a way to address that problem if the pads are no longer there?
Thanks
Brian
bruther wrote:Ok so I tried different types of solder and nothing has worked. It looks like on one of them the pads may not be there anymore. Is there a way to address that problem if the pads are no longer there?
Thanks
Brian
Just one of them? Are all of the leads doing the same thing? When you solder them is the tip touching both the capacitor lead and the solder pad?
Not much you can do with a lifted pad other than soldering a jumper wire in.
A quality soldering iron makes a world of a difference.