RSD6cs not sealing to mounting surface

Post by **fuzzysnuggleduck** » Fri Feb 09, 2007 9:06 am

Well, I just got my RSD comp set and decided to try installing them right away. I've had about 50% success. The holes were easy to cut and everything seems to test fit alright. That's the good part.

The bad part is that they aren't sealing against the mounting surface of the kicks. I've tried all kinds of things. The little foam ring that comes with the speakers doesn't seal it. A "gasket" of modeling clay around the mounting surface doesn't seal it. There's always air escaping out the front of the enclosure. Once mounted, I physically move the diaphragm in and out to simulate the speaker doing it's thing and air almost "whistles" out the front, near the mounting screws and in some locations where there seems to be holes in the mounting ring of the speaker itself.

I'm screwing the speaker in fairly tightly as well. It's not loose at all.

Any suggestions on sealing these things?

Also, it seems like the mounting holes on the ring of the speaker are MADE to let air out... does that make any sense? They aren't flat or flush at all so when I screw the speakers down, there is all sorts of space around the screw head where air from inside the enclosure can be pushed out.

I'm thinking I made the cut outs too big even though I used the cardboard template to trace the lines onto the kicks and cut them out smaller than where the line was.

Post by **AVICJR** » Fri Feb 09, 2007 9:16 am

What about a little silicone?

Post by **Bfowler** » Fri Feb 09, 2007 10:15 am

x2

it sounds like the mounting surface isnt very rigid..

some silicon should do the trick

Post by **VW337** » Fri Feb 09, 2007 10:37 am

No silicone, use Butyl. You can get it at the local auto parts store as 3M windshield sealant, it is in strips of black goo. It is not a clean process as it leaves residue, but it never hardens and can be removed with acetone/thinner. Silicone stinks and is a pain if you ever change things around.

Post by **Bfowler** » Fri Feb 09, 2007 10:42 am

VW337 wrote:No silicone, use Butyl. You can get it at the local auto parts store as 3M windshield sealant, it is in strips of black goo. It is not a clean process as it leaves residue, but it never hardens and can be removed with acetone/thinner. Silicone stinks and is a pain if you ever change things around.

if you use this WEAR GLOVES

Post by **stipud** » Fri Feb 09, 2007 11:15 am

What about "gorilla snot"? Sounds a lot like what Errin is describing, though probably less caustic. It's basically some malliable, gooey, rubbery substance, which is only mildly sticky.

Post by **AVICJR** » Fri Feb 09, 2007 11:25 am

Bfowler wrote:
VW337 wrote:No silicone, use Butyl. You can get it at the local auto parts store as 3M windshield sealant, it is in strips of black goo. It is not a clean process as it leaves residue, but it never hardens and can be removed with acetone/thinner. Silicone stinks and is a pain if you ever change things around.
if you use this WEAR GLOVES

And dab it on with a cotton swab.

dedlyjedly · Post by **dedlyjedly** » Fri Feb 09, 2007 11:49 am

yeah tom, what i affectionately refer to as "gorilla snot" is in fact 3M "Strip Calk" and i'm pretty sure that's what errin's referring to. although i've never felt the need to wear gloves while working with it, so who knows?

Post by **fuzzysnuggleduck** » Fri Feb 09, 2007 12:31 pm

Bfowler wrote: it sounds like the mounting surface isnt very rigid..

Yeah, it's not the best.

I've decided I'm going to "redo" the majority of the clay on the backside around the cups because they aren't centered all that well and I could really use some screw clips or what not on the other side so I can really crank the speakers on tight against the mounting surface.

And yes, I'll try some of that 3M Butyl strip calk aka "gorilla snot" stuff too.

The speakers sound alright without being perfectly sealed against the mounting surface but I already went through too much work to not get it done right. Not fixing this little issue would be way too half-assed of me.

Thanks for the suggestions guys, I feel a bit more confident now about going through with tearing the kicks apart again.

Post by **Bfowler** » Fri Feb 09, 2007 12:42 pm

fuzzysnuggleduck wrote:
Bfowler wrote: it sounds like the mounting surface isnt very rigid..
I could really use some screw clips or what not on the other side so I can really crank the speakers on tight against the mounting surface.

that will help out a ton! you should definitely do that

Post by **VW337** » Fri Feb 09, 2007 2:04 pm

dedlyjedly wrote:yeah tom, what i affectionately refer to as "gorilla snot" is in fact 3M "Strip Calk" and i'm pretty sure that's what errin's referring to. although i've never felt the need to wear gloves while working with it, so who knows?

Same thing.

Gloves are cool and all for a proctologist but you shouldn't need them for Butyl/3m widow strip sealant/gorilla snot.

Post by **fuzzysnuggleduck** » Sun Feb 11, 2007 11:01 am

I tried and tried and tried but I couldn't find 3M strip calk or any kind of Butyl based sealing product...

But, I got the RSDs sealed anyways. I used a combination of the gasket that comes with the drivers and another similar material with glue on one side. Together, the two materials did form a nice seal. I also suspect the fact that I'm no longer using plastic as the retaining material makes the seal that much more solid.

Anyways, it's all sealed for now and it'll do.

I'm questioning whether my enclosures are too small but a project to make them larger involves a total redesign of how I'm doing this stuff so that'll have to wait until warmer times.

Let me tell you, working in my truck at -20C (-4F) outside really sucks.