My RSDc's are in, not sure what to think...
- KHPower
- Posts: 878
- Joined: Wed Apr 23, 2008 2:18 am
- Location: In the Phoenix Phorum's boiler room , east of the janitors closet
- Contact:
So you just out Styrofoam peaces in the box to take up the extra volume? or do you use the spray stuff?
Please explain. I have heard of bricks and pieces of wood but never Styrofoam.
Please explain. I have heard of bricks and pieces of wood but never Styrofoam.
[color=#8040BF]Kenwood 993
Team Sundown:4500D
(2) Digital Designs 9500's
6 Cubes tuning 3 HZ
Team Kinetik: HC3800 ,(2),1200s (2) 600's
Factory Authorized Kinetik ,Sundown,MB Quart Dealer[/color]
Team Sundown:4500D
(2) Digital Designs 9500's
6 Cubes tuning 3 HZ
Team Kinetik: HC3800 ,(2),1200s (2) 600's
Factory Authorized Kinetik ,Sundown,MB Quart Dealer[/color]
- thedeal7235
- Posts: 1866
- Joined: Fri Jan 25, 2008 7:49 pm
- Location: Sanford, Florida(orlando area)
- KHPower
- Posts: 878
- Joined: Wed Apr 23, 2008 2:18 am
- Location: In the Phoenix Phorum's boiler room , east of the janitors closet
- Contact:
I have a 12 RSDC 4 ohm laying at home at the moment. I still dont know if I want to try it out or sell it 

[color=#8040BF]Kenwood 993
Team Sundown:4500D
(2) Digital Designs 9500's
6 Cubes tuning 3 HZ
Team Kinetik: HC3800 ,(2),1200s (2) 600's
Factory Authorized Kinetik ,Sundown,MB Quart Dealer[/color]
Team Sundown:4500D
(2) Digital Designs 9500's
6 Cubes tuning 3 HZ
Team Kinetik: HC3800 ,(2),1200s (2) 600's
Factory Authorized Kinetik ,Sundown,MB Quart Dealer[/color]
Yep, I broke up a couple pieces off some old factory styrofoam packaging that was used to ship a sub, will get you guys pics sometime, you will laugh! I just used a couple drops of superglue to attach the styro to the enclosure, unorthodox but it works!KHPower wrote:So you just out Styrofoam peaces in the box to take up the extra volume? or do you use the spray stuff?
Please explain. I have heard of bricks and pieces of wood but never Styrofoam.
Alpine CDA-9887
PG ZX-450 v2
PG ZPA0.5 v2
Polk SR-6500 (active)
(2) PG 10" RSDC-104 (sealed)
PG PLD-1
PG 1/0, 2 Farad cap
Dynamat Extreme Door/Trunk
(Anybody have a HO alternator for a late model Accord V-6?)
PG ZX-450 v2
PG ZPA0.5 v2
Polk SR-6500 (active)
(2) PG 10" RSDC-104 (sealed)
PG PLD-1
PG 1/0, 2 Farad cap
Dynamat Extreme Door/Trunk
(Anybody have a HO alternator for a late model Accord V-6?)
- thedeal7235
- Posts: 1866
- Joined: Fri Jan 25, 2008 7:49 pm
- Location: Sanford, Florida(orlando area)
UPDATE! I am keeping the RSDc's, they are a wonderful sub, good enough that I am forgoing trying out the Treo Ssi's or the Polk SR 10's!
Alpine CDA-9887
PG ZX-450 v2
PG ZPA0.5 v2
Polk SR-6500 (active)
(2) PG 10" RSDC-104 (sealed)
PG PLD-1
PG 1/0, 2 Farad cap
Dynamat Extreme Door/Trunk
(Anybody have a HO alternator for a late model Accord V-6?)
PG ZX-450 v2
PG ZPA0.5 v2
Polk SR-6500 (active)
(2) PG 10" RSDC-104 (sealed)
PG PLD-1
PG 1/0, 2 Farad cap
Dynamat Extreme Door/Trunk
(Anybody have a HO alternator for a late model Accord V-6?)
You can have 18s properly blend in well with your system. the key is to have good midbass up front. If you have strong mid bass, you can blend it in better with the substage. Thats why I plan on going with these to mate up with my 18sstipud wrote:Bingo! This is basically the "holy grail" of car audio. If you can make everything sound like it's coming from the front speakers, you win!flogger11 wrote:Ya, my first set of 10's. 12's just dont seam to line up with my seperates like 10's do... Rather than having comps and a sub, it now sounds like one big speaker.


Well ya, if you want to take it to the midbass in the door level... thats a huge financial commitment for most...
Alpine CDA-9887
PG ZX-450 v2
PG ZPA0.5 v2
Polk SR-6500 (active)
(2) PG 10" RSDC-104 (sealed)
PG PLD-1
PG 1/0, 2 Farad cap
Dynamat Extreme Door/Trunk
(Anybody have a HO alternator for a late model Accord V-6?)
PG ZX-450 v2
PG ZPA0.5 v2
Polk SR-6500 (active)
(2) PG 10" RSDC-104 (sealed)
PG PLD-1
PG 1/0, 2 Farad cap
Dynamat Extreme Door/Trunk
(Anybody have a HO alternator for a late model Accord V-6?)
Cyclone is a different beast altogether...will give you a good kick in the pants!
Doesnt take much to blow one of those up. It will run decent off yer 500.
Just realize the clone needs a pretty big box...mine is a small box...and works fine too...I've just been told it needs to be BIGGER....hehe....I have been told I can be hard comming down the block and such....with the FI BTL and Clone together....and I really rattle glass windows and doors....
Doesnt take much to blow one of those up. It will run decent off yer 500.
Just realize the clone needs a pretty big box...mine is a small box...and works fine too...I've just been told it needs to be BIGGER....hehe....I have been told I can be hard comming down the block and such....with the FI BTL and Clone together....and I really rattle glass windows and doors....
WOW, is that what you believe? You are talking woodwork, fiberglass, custom paint/trim and sooooo much more! Not to mention you need two amplifier channels to run your midbasses and a way to create a band pass cross for them. Personally my deck has three sets of outs being used for mids, tweets and subs, nothing left for the midbass's!Mackenzie wrote:Grand total of 50 bux each speaker, and for a deck that already has active crossovers, its not much at all.flogger11 wrote:Well ya, if you want to take it to the midbass in the door level... thats a huge financial commitment for most...
Alpine CDA-9887
PG ZX-450 v2
PG ZPA0.5 v2
Polk SR-6500 (active)
(2) PG 10" RSDC-104 (sealed)
PG PLD-1
PG 1/0, 2 Farad cap
Dynamat Extreme Door/Trunk
(Anybody have a HO alternator for a late model Accord V-6?)
PG ZX-450 v2
PG ZPA0.5 v2
Polk SR-6500 (active)
(2) PG 10" RSDC-104 (sealed)
PG PLD-1
PG 1/0, 2 Farad cap
Dynamat Extreme Door/Trunk
(Anybody have a HO alternator for a late model Accord V-6?)
A couple pics for ya, precise measurements and lots of tubes, er, thought went into this...KHPower wrote:So you just out Styrofoam peaces in the box to take up the extra volume? or do you use the spray stuff?
Please explain. I have heard of bricks and pieces of wood but never Styrofoam.
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Alpine CDA-9887
PG ZX-450 v2
PG ZPA0.5 v2
Polk SR-6500 (active)
(2) PG 10" RSDC-104 (sealed)
PG PLD-1
PG 1/0, 2 Farad cap
Dynamat Extreme Door/Trunk
(Anybody have a HO alternator for a late model Accord V-6?)
PG ZX-450 v2
PG ZPA0.5 v2
Polk SR-6500 (active)
(2) PG 10" RSDC-104 (sealed)
PG PLD-1
PG 1/0, 2 Farad cap
Dynamat Extreme Door/Trunk
(Anybody have a HO alternator for a late model Accord V-6?)
- thedeal7235
- Posts: 1866
- Joined: Fri Jan 25, 2008 7:49 pm
- Location: Sanford, Florida(orlando area)
if they sound better, thats what truly matters!!( however, in the meantime, just start building a smaller box, take your time, precision, and patience, and theyll sound even better- ive had mine now for 5 months, and ive tried them in 3 different boxes, each time getiing smaller, smaller, even with my ports-u get the idea-
As cheap as amps are these days, you can get one for about 50-70 bux, fiber glass, and mdf are cheap fyi. Its hardly a big investment... A whole sheet of mdf thats like 8 feet long is about 20 dollars at home depot. As for processing, you can have processing for under 100.flogger11 wrote:WOW, is that what you believe? You are talking woodwork, fiberglass, custom paint/trim and sooooo much more! Not to mention you need two amplifier channels to run your midbasses and a way to create a band pass cross for them. Personally my deck has three sets of outs being used for mids, tweets and subs, nothing left for the midbass's!Mackenzie wrote:Grand total of 50 bux each speaker, and for a deck that already has active crossovers, its not much at all.flogger11 wrote:Well ya, if you want to take it to the midbass in the door level... thats a huge financial commitment for most...
Everything definately adds up-- and you left out TIME..Mackenzie wrote:As cheap as amps are these days, you can get one for about 50-70 bux, fiber glass, and mdf are cheap fyi. Its hardly a big investment... A whole sheet of mdf thats like 8 feet long is about 20 dollars at home depot. As for processing, you can have processing for under 100.flogger11 wrote:WOW, is that what you believe? You are talking woodwork, fiberglass, custom paint/trim and sooooo much more! Not to mention you need two amplifier channels to run your midbasses and a way to create a band pass cross for them. Personally my deck has three sets of outs being used for mids, tweets and subs, nothing left for the midbass's!Mackenzie wrote: Grand total of 50 bux each speaker, and for a deck that already has active crossovers, its not much at all.
back when I did it, it certainly wasnt worth the "gains" in sound quality, but thats just my opinion.. I could never get it to sound right, and in the end chalked it up to having too many speakers up front (whether thats the true reason or not..)
plus.. anything DIY in the front seats is too fucking hard. just doesnt blend with the OEM stuff.. I'll leave that to jbx and the other real installers here

I'm afraid of widths.
A bad installation is all I can see with it not blending well, and not looking stock. try harderrlockwood wrote:Everything definately adds up-- and you left out TIME..Mackenzie wrote:As cheap as amps are these days, you can get one for about 50-70 bux, fiber glass, and mdf are cheap fyi. Its hardly a big investment... A whole sheet of mdf thats like 8 feet long is about 20 dollars at home depot. As for processing, you can have processing for under 100.flogger11 wrote: WOW, is that what you believe? You are talking woodwork, fiberglass, custom paint/trim and sooooo much more! Not to mention you need two amplifier channels to run your midbasses and a way to create a band pass cross for them. Personally my deck has three sets of outs being used for mids, tweets and subs, nothing left for the midbass's!
back when I did it, it certainly wasnt worth the "gains" in sound quality, but thats just my opinion.. I could never get it to sound right, and in the end chalked it up to having too many speakers up front (whether thats the true reason or not..)
plus.. anything DIY in the front seats is too fucking hard. just doesnt blend with the OEM stuff.. I'll leave that to jbx and the other real installers here

On their way...stipud wrote:So wait... where are YOUR midbass speakers?Mackenzie wrote:A bad installation is all I can see with it not blending well, and not looking stock. try harder
Last edited by Mackenzie on Sat Aug 16, 2008 10:29 pm, edited 1 time in total.
UPDATE!!
Well well. Smaller is better in the case of the RSDc line. I have removed the subs twice, adding foam both times (pics are final), and OMG, what a difference the small enclosure makes! At this point I am going to order a .5 gross per chamber sealed 3/4 mdf box, I have to believe they will then be at their peak performance! I really am starting to fall in love w/ these subs, they are very smooth, have just the right amount of punch, link quite well with my comps and sound very life-like. I played guitar in a band (new rock, godmack, puddle of mudd, janes, bush, etc) for 6 years (4 rhythm, 2 lead) and IMO these are truly accurate subs. They sound very lifelike and balanced. Another amazing thing is they are totally eating up my ZPA0.5! I wouldnt want to put much more on these RSDc's than the 1200 or so RMS watts they are getting now, but without a doubt the ZPA0.5 and this pair of RSDc's are an ideal match! So there everybody, another joins the cult!
Alpine CDA-9887
PG ZX-450 v2
PG ZPA0.5 v2
Polk SR-6500 (active)
(2) PG 10" RSDC-104 (sealed)
PG PLD-1
PG 1/0, 2 Farad cap
Dynamat Extreme Door/Trunk
(Anybody have a HO alternator for a late model Accord V-6?)
PG ZX-450 v2
PG ZPA0.5 v2
Polk SR-6500 (active)
(2) PG 10" RSDC-104 (sealed)
PG PLD-1
PG 1/0, 2 Farad cap
Dynamat Extreme Door/Trunk
(Anybody have a HO alternator for a late model Accord V-6?)