I really have not tapped into speakers in my time of car audio let alone Midbass drivers. and I understand components , coaxial ect... but I have a chance to get a midbass driver pair that are 6.5'' have a freq response of 30hz to 90hz and can take 200 rms a peice and are 3 ohm.
I have always wanted these particular models as there are some good videos on the Realm of excursion of these puppies in action and actually fooling people into thinking there was 12's iof 15's in the cars. They are the Audiobahn AMD60Q and some of you know I use some audiobahn along with my PG gear so please no bashing.
When I look at this mid bass driver I see nothing more than a 6.5 '' sub woofer by the specs. they even look like a small subs. I have 2 6.5 slots perfect for them in the back of my van but I don't know if it would be a improvement or just more noise because unless I turn of my 15'' I never hear the speaker.
Woudl I treat a midbass driver just as a component system but without the tweets? Any install location suggestion in a van??
I was planning on running the ol trusty ZX500 on em'
[/img]
[color=#8040BF]Kenwood 993
Team Sundown:4500D
(2) Digital Designs 9500's
6 Cubes tuning 3 HZ
Team Kinetik: HC3800 ,(2),1200s (2) 600's
Factory Authorized Kinetik ,Sundown,MB Quart Dealer[/color]
I can guarantee you that you can get much better drivers than that. If you decide on them, then thats cool, but I wont ever recommend their products. Take a look at the tang bands I posted. Much much better company, much better track record, much better drivers. If you are really wanting strong midbass, Ide look at the tang band. Nothing comes close on the xmax side. Just my suggestion.. Get the audiobahns if you like..
Specifications: Power handling: 50 watts RMS/100 watts max *VCdia: 1-1/2" *Impedance: 4 ohms *Re: 3.4 ohms *Frequency range: 40-5,000 Hz *Fs: 40 Hz *SPL: 88 dB 1W/1m *Vas: 1.04 cu. ft. *Qms: 3.58 *Qes: .49 *Qts: .43 *Xmax: 8 mm *Dimensions: A: 6.95", B: 5.8", C: 4.3".
-There are lots of good midbass drivers. None of which are judged on their appearance, excursion capabilities or impedance.
-putting midbass drivers behind you will do nothing for your sound stage.
-The term midbass refers to a section of the total freq range. ie: subs(20hz-70hz), midbass (70hz-220hz), midrange (220hz-3000hz), highs (3000hz-20,000hz) Of coarse those are just an example of typical range of freq's for each driver.
-So yes you would want to run them in their own freq range. Like componants, you will need a way to create the x-over to limit the speaker to play only the desired freq range.
-The 'specs' you list are more like 'features'. Knowing the real Thiel&Small parameters would tell you more about the driver. I doubt that Audiobahn publishes those though.
My advise is that you keep in mind that Audiobahn has made it's reputation and products based more on looks then any real engineering. Actually got their start by being a unlicensed 'copycat' of PG amps. But most importantly, they failed and the company has gone away. So don't be oooohhh'd by the shiney basket and big rubber surround. Get a listen to one before you decide. And make sure you can implement the driver into the system properly in order to give it a chance.
I know alot of what Audiobahn has offered has been un desirable and very flashy . I have posted about this at many of threads. There is good Audiobahn and then there is bad.
Regarding them copy cating PG is what I have always used when defending my Audiobahn amp that i run now. Its the 2200HCX which is older and was and still is one of the best amps I have played with to date.
In most cases , Audiobahn speakers suck but out of all the speakers I would consider buying it would be this one. Here is a little more info on the speaker itself.
Also , I see most people who buy this particular driver use it as a small sub and I was thinking maybe I could build some sort of small enclosure and place them wetween the two front seats to add to my front sound stage.
Attachments
Audbahn amd50q amd60q fff_Page_07.jpg (78.62 KiB) Viewed 6506 times
[color=#8040BF]Kenwood 993
Team Sundown:4500D
(2) Digital Designs 9500's
6 Cubes tuning 3 HZ
Team Kinetik: HC3800 ,(2),1200s (2) 600's
Factory Authorized Kinetik ,Sundown,MB Quart Dealer[/color]
Mackenzie wrote:I can guarantee you that you can get much better drivers than that. If you decide on them, then thats cool, but I wont ever recommend their products. Take a look at the tang bands I posted. Much much better company, much better track record, much better drivers. If you are really wanting strong midbass, Ide look at the tang band. Nothing comes close on the xmax side. Just my suggestion.. Get the audiobahns if you like..
Specifications: Power handling: 50 watts RMS/100 watts max *VCdia: 1-1/2" *Impedance: 4 ohms *Re: 3.4 ohms *Frequency range: 40-5,000 Hz *Fs: 40 Hz *SPL: 88 dB 1W/1m *Vas: 1.04 cu. ft. *Qms: 3.58 *Qes: .49 *Qts: .43 *Xmax: 8 mm *Dimensions: A: 6.95", B: 5.8", C: 4.3".
This also looks to be a great speaker and fairly priced and compared to the Audiobahn's 6mm of xmax.
I dont have any components installed , I run my front stage with justy a pair of Alpine 6x9's in the dash that atually sound ok for what they are. the Alpins have a frequency range of 30hz and up so they sound alright. I woukld lve to add some more bass to my front stage and overall music in my van when I dont want to run my sub. As you can see by my sig I run a Audiobahn Immortal 15'' and its a SPL comp woofer and pretty much should only be used as such. Often when I am not in the mood for smashing bass I turn of the subs and have my front 6x9's faded and I barely hear the speakers in the back of the van which are 2 51/2's in the doors and 4'' factories in the pillars.
Any suggestions ? Should I just ocus on my front stage?
My van has no other seats in it currently in it then the driver and passenger but I may out back the middle seats so I am not put in a mod class at comps so I would at least liek to have good sound coming from the rear if passengers decide to roll with me.
[color=#8040BF]Kenwood 993
Team Sundown:4500D
(2) Digital Designs 9500's
6 Cubes tuning 3 HZ
Team Kinetik: HC3800 ,(2),1200s (2) 600's
Factory Authorized Kinetik ,Sundown,MB Quart Dealer[/color]
Ya it looks like to get full benifit of those speakers they will need an enclosure. If you're up to the task by all means go for it. You may find them a good fit for what you want.
To me, mid bass is more about getting good detail as well as output. There's alot of important information in that range that can make a big difference in the outcome as a whole.
Midbass speakers are not about actual size, unless you really want to drop the freq very very low, which I would not suggest unless you want to got for a full SQ type system.
Midbass drivers should be fast snappy and have a good efficiency , do not need a lot of power to drive them but still have enough control and warmth to validate them being added. I had a 2 way system before and was quite happy till I added a 3 way.
The Audiobhans are really not all that grand , in fact they worry me in that the magnet size is huge and this is not always a good thing for a smallish speaker.
Have a look at the follwoing to gauge a good midbass driver.
But again this is more geared towards bringing your bass upfront, if you do not have that problem at the moment adding a midbass is not going to help much , dedicated speakers with defined freq always play better then co-axes or multiple driver systems.
For freq I normally suggest the midbass between 60Hz to 350Hz, no higher as this will then make you locate the speaker , and this is not good for a soundstage, also midbass drivers are like woofer, they move a lot of the air which you actually hear, midbass is the heart of bass, it's the snappy attack that you feel when standing in front of a drum set, the lower octaves are really not the realm of midbass, but more dedicated to sub bass.
Saying that I have seen people cut midbass from 35Hz to 150Hz as well, it all depends on the in car response, the resonance of the car and where exactly you place them, midbass drivers are in mostr cases infinate baffel design, and genreally do not like ported enclosures. But again each car is different.
Midbass speakers are not about actual size, unless you really want to drop the freq very very low, which I would not suggest unless you want to got for a full SQ type system.
Midbass drivers should be fast snappy and have a good efficiency , do not need a lot of power to drive them but still have enough control and warmth to validate them being added. I had a 2 way system before and was quite happy till I added a 3 way.
The Audiobhans are really not all that grand , in fact they worry me in that the magnet size is huge and this is not always a good thing for a smallish speaker.
Have a look at the follwoing to gauge a good midbass driver.
But again this is more geared towards bringing your bass upfront, if you do not have that problem at the moment adding a midbass is not going to help much , dedicated speakers with defined freq always play better then co-axes or multiple driver systems.
For freq I normally suggest the midbass between 60Hz to 350Hz, no higher as this will then make you locate the speaker , and this is not good for a soundstage, also midbass drivers are like woofer, they move a lot of the air which you actually hear, midbass is the heart of bass, it's the snappy attack that you feel when standing in front of a drum set, the lower octaves are really not the realm of midbass, but more dedicated to sub bass.
Saying that I have seen people cut midbass from 35Hz to 150Hz as well, it all depends on the in car response, the resonance of the car and where exactly you place them, midbass drivers are in mostr cases infinate baffel design, and genreally do not like ported enclosures. But again each car is different.
Very good writeup Thank You
Really the only reason I would buy these are because of the good price I can get them for and basicly when they ae gone they are gone
Regarding these midbasses and others that you listed. You stated they like infinate baffel designs? Cause I was just going to rebaffel a basic 6x9 boxes filled with poly and run them that way and if you can picture in your head two 6x9 boxes facing up and in between the drivers and passenger seats at a 35 ish angle facing the driver/passenger thats where I was planning on putting them or perhaps doing some custom work and cutting some wholes in my doors and build custom boxes inside the doors up front.
If anything else I coud always build some custom bookshelf speakers for the house:?
[color=#8040BF]Kenwood 993
Team Sundown:4500D
(2) Digital Designs 9500's
6 Cubes tuning 3 HZ
Team Kinetik: HC3800 ,(2),1200s (2) 600's
Factory Authorized Kinetik ,Sundown,MB Quart Dealer[/color]
dont be stupid and waste your money on brand name products....
The best buy for a resonable depth mid bass driver is the Peerless SLS 6.5". The Qts is a little low for IB, but the MMS is good enough. With a little EQ to help the low end it will hands down be your best bet.
It's a 4 ohm driver as well, not that really matters as 8 ohm drivers would be fine.
I would tend to agree, but have found that paper cones on midbassd sound the best, that neo mags and the rest of the fancy stuff does not, that flat spiders work to control cone movement .
[/img]
