PG 4Runner

Post by **stipud** » Thu Jan 17, 2008 9:33 am

Yeah yeah, slacker

Let's install a plasma in the back when I get there next next weekend

Post by **fuzzysnuggleduck** » Sat Jul 26, 2008 6:51 pm

My latest addition thanks to Harold:

Minty!

Now, I just need to get my ass in gear and install the last remaining components and build a proper amp rack to protect and display these beautiful covers.

Post by **fuzzysnuggleduck** » Thu Sep 18, 2008 10:47 pm

I'm now planning a more extensive phase where I'll not only pull out some components but replace my giant box and upgrade the subs to RSdC124's and upgrade the HU to what I think will be a Clarion DXZ785USB. I think I'll be selling my beloved tBAT, EQ-230 and AX204a, combo but I'm not 100% sure on that yet, it could be useful and fun down the line.

Last equipment question I need answered now is... to M50 or not to M50.

This is version 2 without the M50.
This is version 2.1 with the M50.

The big difference in planning the physical build will be determining if I can fit the M50 on the same plane behind the seats as the M44 and M100 in a single plexi covered, fan cooled case of sorts. I have two of the PG M-series fan units but no shrouding to contain the air and force it across the heat sink though.

I was thinking about using Google SketchUp for doing some basic drafting but I'm finding it annoying hard to use when it's supposed to be easy... I must be doing something wrong.

deathcloud · Post by **deathcloud** » Thu Sep 18, 2008 11:05 pm

is that m100 enough for 2 rsdc?

Post by **fuzzysnuggleduck** » Thu Sep 18, 2008 11:27 pm

Sure. Tom is running one on about 250W and that's what each will get here (if not a bit more) and his was certainly loud enough. At 6db more than him plus my better cabin gain, I'm fairly certain it will be to my tastes. My current RSd124 don't feel starved by any means.

deathcloud · Post by **deathcloud** » Fri Sep 19, 2008 12:09 am

250rms? isnt that under powering the sub? Its supposed to have 600rms so I figured youd want something along the lines of a 1200.1 or something.

Post by **stipud** » Fri Sep 19, 2008 6:56 am

deathcloud wrote:250rms? isnt that under powering the sub? Its supposed to have 600rms so I figured youd want something along the lines of a 1200.1 or something.

There's nothing wrong with underpowering. The difference between 500 watts and 1000 watts is only about 3 decibels. That's approximately the difference you might see in a car by folding the seats down. Not a big deal in the grand scheme of things, unless you are competing for bass loudness. Fuzzy's install is SQ, so the subs will already be too loud on that power, and he will have to keep it turned down with the LPL.

And Ryan, I suggest M50 + M25 to power your comps, or just the M44. The M50 is smaller, and puts out almost as much power as a bridged M44... plus you don't get lower THD due to bridging.

Post by **Bfowler** » Fri Sep 19, 2008 8:34 am

not really understanding what you will be adding the m50 to?

so your m100 to the rsdc's and then...? m50 m44?

Post by **fuzzysnuggleduck** » Fri Sep 19, 2008 8:48 am

The diagram woudl be showing the M44 bridged the RSd mids and the M50 to the tweeters.

I think Tom's THD point make sense so I suppose my best options really are M50/M25 for the front end or just the M44.

Post by **Bfowler** » Fri Sep 19, 2008 8:51 am

fuck, i was on my bberry and didnt even notice the pic links.

version 2.1 looks like the shizznit

Post by **fuzzysnuggleduck** » Sat Jan 31, 2009 7:54 pm

I've finally acquired the DXZ785USB and my RSdC124 woofers!

I like em so far! I do have yet to hear them, however. I also like how the box is smaller. I'll have some cargo space again... just dunno what I'm going to do about grills yet. I hate cheesy grills. I hate them!

Here's what I'm looking at for v2.2 on the stereo now:

Active with the AX204, that way I can keep using the EQ-230 on the fronts since it is far superior to the Clarion's EQ.

I could also just use an M50 for the tweeters... but I don't know...

So Tom... do we install when you're here? Or should I just do it now?

thedeal7235 · Post by **thedeal7235** » Sat Jan 31, 2009 9:21 pm

luv my rsdc 10s-wish i could make a better video , or more audible for u guys to hear; i think ull luv 'em!!!

Post by **fuzzysnuggleduck** » Sat Jan 31, 2009 9:53 pm

Let me try to take a good video. I think I can use an audio in on my camera so maybe I can borrow a nice mic from my friends and try to record it that way.

Post by **stipud** » Sun Feb 01, 2009 8:16 am

I love your install man... it's the perfect mix of old and newschool.

You still have a working multimeter right? Then I will bring the RTA again, to make sure those RSDs are still nice and flat with the new HU.

Let's installerize the bitch!

waynehead · Post by **waynehead** » Sun Feb 01, 2009 8:30 am

Super Sexy setup.

Post by **fuzzysnuggleduck** » Sun Feb 01, 2009 1:13 pm

stipud wrote:I love your install man... it's the perfect mix of old and newschool.

You still have a working multimeter right? Then I will bring the RTA again, to make sure those RSDs are still nice and flat with the new HU.

Let's installerize the bitch!

Yeah, I have a working DMM. I'm going to need to pickup some speaker cable for running active as well.... and some butt connectors for my kicks (so they can be removed).

oldskoolmseriesfan · Post by **oldskoolmseriesfan** » Thu Mar 05, 2009 1:09 pm

fuzzysnuggleduck wrote:Minor update:

I got the RSDs!

Well, at first I was underwhelmed... but it wasn't the RSD's fault, I just couldn't get the mouting surface sealed and one mounting screw on each enclosure rattled annoyingly

The solution was obvious, rebuild the kicks properly for the RSDs. And that's what I did. I also found a way to seal the mounting surface so now it's totally sealed. Perhaps even too small... but that could be solved later this summer if totally necessary but I doubt it will be.

Anyways, pictures! That's what everyone wants right?!?

The component set, unboxed.

Relative to hand size, this is the 6" set.

The tweeter and woofer installed in the kick properly once and for all!

The backside of the finished kick panel. The wire coming out of the enclosure is sealed with hot glue underneath the clay.

And the sound? Clear and defined. These 6" must not have as much mid bass as the 6.5" which everyone raves about because while the 6" has good mid bass, I don't think they are particularly super duper, maybe I'm just too much of a noob to know. Maybe my enclosure is too small as Tom has already suggested.

Either way, fantastic. Really. Tom and you guys really got me into PG with such high praise... and now I know why. The M44 is astounding, I never thought an amp could make that kind of difference but I was soooooo wrong, this amp made Kicker 3.5" drivers very acceptable, that's no minor feat! The Xmax 10" is very accurate. The RSDs are clean and tight, I love that.

From Frank Sinatra to Rage Against the Machine to Converge to Do Make Say Think to At the Drive In to Block Party to DJ Shadow to Bahamadia to Dr. Dre to Rammstein to Truckee Brothers to Elliot Smith to to Dave Brubeck to whatever, it's all been sounding great.

Many thanks to all those that have supported my installation with help in acquiring equipment and tuning and troubleshooting the gear I have installed as well as plenty of tips along the way.

I'm really hoping at this point to be able to "clean up" the install in the summer. It's dreadfully cold right now and tearing out my seats to mount the crossovers and measure speaker wires is far too annoying and painful for now.

Next little step is installing the Dayton Audio Reference Series 5" speakers Tom ordered on my behalf from Parts Express to replace my stock rears.

All that taken into account, I think I've spent around $1000CAD on this install. About twice as much as I initially anticipated but all of you knew that already didn't you? DIDN'T YOU? WHY DIDN'T YOU WARN ME!!!!!!!

Oh right, you all did. Damnit!

Gotta question for ya, does the clay give off any odor in the summer when it gets hot out? Ive got my car from tonight until Sunday, I was thinking on starting my kick pods, or glassing some sealed door pods, and I couldnt stop thinking about this clay idea, I have dynamat but Im not sure if I have enough, and the clay idea just makes sense and saves coin too. I can also justify spending the little money I do have on clay because I can get enough for myself and my kids too play with

Post by **fuzzysnuggleduck** » Thu Mar 05, 2009 1:55 pm

Good question.

I haven't noticed any smell... but I smoke in my truck, so any smell might just be masked.

I did notice the clay got softer under warm conditions but it wasn't all gooey and melty, just soft. Speaking of which, I want to remold the clay to get a better fit. I also STILL need to figure out what to do about grills. My RSd components are probably taking a beating down there.

The clay is great. I like how heavy it makes my kicks. I'm convinced that the reason they sound so great to me is because of how sealed and how heavy they are.

oldskoolmseriesfan · Post by **oldskoolmseriesfan** » Thu Mar 05, 2009 2:08 pm

Well that settles it then, I will grab some clay today. Ive also got a spare set of grills if you need them. You would just have to take off the FOCAL badge if you want them. Shoot me a pm

The grills are mint and they seem really rigid and strong. We live so close I could frisbee toss em too ya

Post by **ttocs** » Thu Mar 05, 2009 3:12 pm

willing to bet that once summer comes that it will half-way cure and become hard. I don't think it will stay attached to the kick when this happens but only time will tell...

Post by **fuzzysnuggleduck** » Thu Mar 05, 2009 3:53 pm

ttocs wrote:willing to bet that once summer comes that it will half-way cure and become hard. I don't think it will stay attached to the kick when this happens but only time will tell...

I've had these in for over 1 year now and they haven't cured yet. I got my clay from an art store, I believe it's oil based so it's never going to just dry out and crumble. Pretty sure you could cure this stuff in a kiln, but I dunno about getting cured at 30C (the hottest it will ever get up here).

Good point, though. I can't recall even thinking that the clay could inadvertently cure.

Post by **ttocs** » Thu Mar 05, 2009 6:00 pm

see I live in phoenix.... Give me one summer of parking that thing in a dark car in the sun and I bed I can make you a perfect mold of your kicks in hardened clay. When you start out at 115F outside, it only gets hotter inside. I have seen garage door remotes that have melted from being tucked between the visor and the ceiling.

Post by **fuzzysnuggleduck** » Thu Mar 05, 2009 7:29 pm

ttocs wrote:see I live in phoenix.... Give me one summer of parking that thing in a dark car in the sun and I bed I can make you a perfect mold of your kicks in hardened clay. When you start out at 115F outside, it only gets hotter inside. I have seen garage door remotes that have melted from being tucked between the visor and the ceiling.

Wow.

Good thing I live in Canada, eh?

Post by **ttocs** » Thu Mar 05, 2009 10:08 pm

fuzzysnuggleduck wrote:
ttocs wrote:see I live in phoenix.... Give me one summer of parking that thing in a dark car in the sun and I bed I can make you a perfect mold of your kicks in hardened clay. When you start out at 115F outside, it only gets hotter inside. I have seen garage door remotes that have melted from being tucked between the visor and the ceiling.
Wow.

Good thing I live in Canada, eh?

its been mid 70s for the last 3 months now.....

dedlyjedly · Post by **dedlyjedly** » Fri Mar 06, 2009 1:17 am

As Ryan pointed out, it is essential that you get an oil-based (and thus non-hardening) modeling clay for this type of application. I suppose with enough heat over a long enough period of time just about anything will dry out and harden, but I didn't have any issues with the Las Vegas heat last summer. And I ruined more than one pair of flip-flops (or thongs as I still call them!) that shriveled up in the back seat of my car during that time!