Ti 12d Elite Sub Ques?

Post by **stipud** » Mon Feb 12, 2007 9:50 pm

Use the proper impedance setting (ohms > 20) on your DMM... you should see ~3 ohms for each voicecoil. Let us know what all the readings are.

brenzbmr@sb · Post by **brenzbmr@sb** » Mon Feb 12, 2007 11:24 pm

i would first tell ya that i meant just hook up any speaker to see if the amp is working.
6.5 or a 15. all you wanna do is see if the thing plays
now the elite.
if teh dmm is confusing you then i can only tell ya to then
do the battery test. but its not acurate way to test but it will let you knowif the speaker is at least working.

do as stipud said
test it with a volt meter. you should get about 3 ohms per coil
if you after this cant figure it out then i might suggest taking it to your local dealer and have them bench the speaker for you.

Post by **AVICJR** » Sat Feb 17, 2007 2:02 pm

stipud wrote:Use the proper impedance setting (ohms > 20) on your DMM... you should see ~3 ohms for each voicecoil. Let us know what all the readings are.

I tested another sub that was working in the same setup as I have the Ti in. This sub is SVC. I set my DMM to 200 ohms, and the reading was about 4.(?) the point (?) is because it moved up and down, I guess because of the music. I had the music volume low. Am I testing it right?

Post by **AVICJR** » Sat Feb 17, 2007 2:28 pm

I tested the Ti and about the same numbers came up on my DMM 4.(?). It read this on both VC's. I then decided to connect the sub in series. I hooked up one VC directly to my amp and then on the other VC, I wired them in series or together (+ to -). I then finally heard the sub play

But by doing this the impedance is now 8 ohms correct?

Post by **AVICJR** » Sat Feb 17, 2007 2:54 pm

I found the "F"ing problem. And no it was not me, a QC problem. I always double and triple check everything (+ and -). What I didn't realize was that one VC the positive terminal is on the left, and on the other VC the positive (label) is on the right and that's how I have been connecting them. I connected both postive leads on the left going against the labels and low and behold it works!!!!! Here I am pulling my hair out. All I have to do is disassemble the VC (terminal) that is marked incorrectly and turn the damn thing around.

At least I know it works now.

brenzbmr@sb · Post by **brenzbmr@sb** » Sat Feb 17, 2007 9:06 pm

i guess not telling you about the old school battery popping test
would piss you off right now.

should have told you to pop the damn voice coils sooner
would have saved you alot of time.

Post by **AVICJR** » Sun Feb 18, 2007 12:34 am

I think I've done it before, you connect the positive lead to positive of a battery and neg. to neg. and if it pops then the speaker works? I unbolted the VC and turned it around so hopefully I won't make the dumb mistake again.

Brenz or stipud, read my test to see if I did it correctly with the DMM.

Now I can't wait to get the second X600.1 installed to see what this sub is all about.

I appreciate the help guys.

brenzbmr@sb · Post by **brenzbmr@sb** » Sun Feb 18, 2007 12:55 am

well you could set it at 20 and just test the coils with nothing
hooked up and it should give you a nom of about 2.8 to 3 ohms

i glad you figuredit out. i wish i told you to the battery popper because
it would have showed you right there that the terminal was in the wrong
place and would have saved you alot of time.

if the speaker pop upward then it means that its in correct polarity
if it pulls down then it is in 180 degrees or out of polarity.

you would have seen one push up and the other pull down and would
have been like wtf is going on and then you might have caught it.

good luck now put this thing in like 2.7 cubic ft ported and tune it at about
28 hz and play something low in it.

Post by **AVICJR** » Sun Feb 18, 2007 1:01 am

good luck now put this thing in like 2.7 cubic ft ported and tune it at about 28 hz and play something low in it.

I have it in a sealed box between 1.3 and 1.4^3 per manual.

Thanks!! I will post some kind of a review.

brenzbmr@sb · Post by **brenzbmr@sb** » Sun Feb 18, 2007 12:31 pm

let me know howit sounds sealed, i have about 4 cubic ft right now
im thinking of doing for two but i dont really like sealed to much and i
dont have enough pwer to run both of them sealed.(nor do i wanna add
more amps)

i should build one sealed my self but im lazy.

Post by **AVICJR** » Fri Mar 02, 2007 10:06 pm

I finally got the box and sub installed today after about 9 hours of work. For some reason or another I'm sending the amps into protection (blue led is blinking). It's only when I crank it up, and again I'm getting the low volume output. I will look at every thing again tomorrow.

Post by **AVICJR** » Sat Mar 03, 2007 5:03 pm

Everything looks ok. It will get loud when I crank the gains up, but the amps as soon as they hit a note it sends one or the other into protection (blinking LED).

It sounds good. I have the gains (sens.) turned all the way down. The xover on my mids is set at 78 for my comps and on the sub amps the xover is set at 81 Hz. Subsonic and bass turned down all the way also.

It may be me, but it seemed that when the car is turned on I could get it a little louder before they hit protection.

phoenixgold_icy · Post by **phoenixgold_icy** » Sun Mar 04, 2007 6:09 am

do they get enough power?
what if you set your subsonic to 15hz-20hz
don´t they have a protection when they don´t get enough power?

Post by **AVICJR** » Sun Mar 04, 2007 11:33 am

don´t they have a protection when they don´t get enough power?

I'm thinking this is my problem. I will hookup an RMD to the amps to check the voltage.

Post by **AVICJR** » Sun Mar 04, 2007 2:09 pm

Voltage with the car off = 11.5 v

Voltage with the car on =14.2 v

These readings were according to the RMD.

phoenixgold_icy · Post by **phoenixgold_icy** » Sun Mar 04, 2007 2:41 pm

think your battery is dead,you shoud read 12,4V
or there is something that uses power from it
what battery do you have?

dedlyjedly · Post by **dedlyjedly** » Sun Mar 04, 2007 2:50 pm

your voltage doesn't appear to be the issue. but you've got a dmm now, right? you can get a more accurate reading than the rmd by testing right at the amp's terminals for voltage. or use the meter to test the resistance/impedance of the speaker load.

Post by **AVICJR** » Sun Mar 04, 2007 3:12 pm

Yes I do have a DMM. I will test it again sometime later this week. As far as battery, I have a small battery that's not that old. I am getting a yellow or red top within the next couple of weeks.

phoenixgold_icy · Post by **phoenixgold_icy** » Sun Mar 04, 2007 3:20 pm

are you can get an exide deepcycle battery i use them
yellowtop better then redtop, i think,yellowtop can give some longer time an amount of current,retop can give more current but not so long