HOW TO SERVICE A CYCLONE SUBWOOFER PART ONE
- nico boom
- Deus ex MS
- Posts: 2089
- Joined: Fri Jan 05, 2007 1:40 pm
- Location: the land of wooden shoes
HOW TO SERVICE A CYCLONE SUBWOOFER PART ONE
This post is created to help everybody who has a cyclone subwoofer, or is thinking about buying one.
NOTE that this post is made by me with the best means I have available, combined with the original info provided by the grace of the technicians at PG ,which I thank for their time and efford to make this possible for us, here on this forum.
I have serviced several cyclones, learning all the time; now there is a simple and effective way of performing this operation yourself.
However; I do not take any responsability for problems you might encounter while performing this operation, since there are variables in how bad the rotor is stuck inside the coil, and the degree of your own craftsmanship, as well as the availability of the tools needed.
-I will dedicate a special post later on, explaining how to remove the coil without expensive tools, and with minimal risk of damaging it, as the magnet is mostly stuck VERY TIGHT into the coil, and this is the most critical part of the whole operation, together with putting the coil in again.
GOOD LUCK.
Nico
unfortunately the size of this post has to be divided in two sections; the first pics to be posted next to this one; please begin with that post.
[the original PG way of performing this operation will be added later]
NOTE that this post is made by me with the best means I have available, combined with the original info provided by the grace of the technicians at PG ,which I thank for their time and efford to make this possible for us, here on this forum.
I have serviced several cyclones, learning all the time; now there is a simple and effective way of performing this operation yourself.
However; I do not take any responsability for problems you might encounter while performing this operation, since there are variables in how bad the rotor is stuck inside the coil, and the degree of your own craftsmanship, as well as the availability of the tools needed.
-I will dedicate a special post later on, explaining how to remove the coil without expensive tools, and with minimal risk of damaging it, as the magnet is mostly stuck VERY TIGHT into the coil, and this is the most critical part of the whole operation, together with putting the coil in again.
GOOD LUCK.
Nico
unfortunately the size of this post has to be divided in two sections; the first pics to be posted next to this one; please begin with that post.
[the original PG way of performing this operation will be added later]
- Attachments
-
- the two parts of the clamps must be tightened equally, so that the gap is the same left and right.
- 25.jpg (81.83 KiB) Viewed 8806 times
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- pressing down the clamps while evenly tightening the halves.
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- the coil in place, with the coated magnet visible; do NOT try to rotate the rotor before the top cap has been fitted in place and tightened.
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- align the coil with the holes in the center piece by looking through the 4 holes and rotate the coil if neccesary.
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- slowly proceed, using your fingers on each side.
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- carefully position the coil above the housing; CAUTION! the coil will be pulled down HARD by the very strong magnet, so be prepared, and put both your hands on the edge of the housing to keep control over the coil.
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- the laquer used for coating the magnet; any high temp resisting coating will do IMO.
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- the coated magnet; leave it time enough to dry and harden completely [I took no risk and waited 3 days].
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- fully taped, and covered. ATTENTION;note that I sealed the 4 holes in which the rods connect to the housing in the next pic.
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- be sure to tape off the upper section, to prevent coating beeing sprayed on the center rod, and the top bearing in the magnet
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- carefully tape the inside; watch the next pics for the important parts to be covered.
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- the cleaned magnet; at one point you have to decide that it's clean enough; if you keep on brushing, you will keep on loosening magnetic material.
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- brush with a strong toothbrush while holding a vacuumcleaner close to it. CAREFULL; magnetic particles will be "catapulted "outwards.
Keep brushing upwards until the magnet is clean, then BLOW OUT WITH COMPRESSED AIR. - 13.jpg (73.09 KiB) Viewed 8806 times
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- BEFORE starting with the actual cleaning; TAPE THE CLONE SECURELY. reason for that is explained later.
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- this is what the coil looks like before cleaning; this is the easy part to clean, as it does not attract the particles as strong as the magnetic core does.
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- this is the problem; the magnet structure is slowly falling apart, with the debri getting stuck between the coil and the rotor. this can happen with used, AND ALSO BNIB cyclones; periodic maintenance is needed.
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- the coil with top cap. CAUTION; while putting it aside, be carefull not to damage the leads to the coil.
- 9.jpg (79.61 KiB) Viewed 8806 times
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- problem in full view; magnetic core stuck in the coil; putting power to it WILL DESTROY the coil due to overheating; NEVER TRY TO FIX THE PROBLEM BY PLAYING MUSIC, OR PUTTING POWER TO YOUR STUCK CYCLONE.
- 8.jpg (99.97 KiB) Viewed 8806 times
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- the top removed; be carefull with the leads; always move the coil around with caution, taking the coil in one- and the top in your other hand, supporting it with as little tension on the leads as possible.
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- carefully pry a screwdriver between the housing and the top; only on the four points where the housing is strengthened. do NOT use excessive force; by gently using the screwdriver on all sides, the top comes off easily. CAREFULL! the leads connecting the
- 6.jpg (95.87 KiB) Viewed 8806 times
Last edited by nico boom on Sun Jan 04, 2009 12:40 am, edited 10 times in total.
- nico boom
- Deus ex MS
- Posts: 2089
- Joined: Fri Jan 05, 2007 1:40 pm
- Location: the land of wooden shoes
HOW TO SERVICE A CYCLONE SUBWOOFER PART ONE
FIRST PART.
- Attachments
-
- remove the four long bolts that holds the top section; observe, and maybe write down on which side the connectors are; while re-assembling, it will fit in two different ways.
- 5.jpg (84.52 KiB) Viewed 8786 times
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- before unscrewing the hex screws, tap them gently with a lightweight hamer, to make sure the wrench is completely inserted in the screw.
these screws are TIGHT, and need quite some force to loosen.
ONLY LOOSEN ONE-TO ONE-AND-A-HALF TURN. - 4.jpg (95.03 KiB) Viewed 8786 times
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- these "hidden screws" hold the clamps, in which the spring is hold to return the rotor to it's center position after each excursion.
- 3.jpg (108.7 KiB) Viewed 8786 times
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- still.... it needed the servicing as seen in this post.
- 2.jpg (78.33 KiB) Viewed 8786 times
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- there it is; BNIB.
- 1.jpg (78.34 KiB) Viewed 8786 times
Great work here Nico.
I'll have to check the one I got in box from Tristan before too long.
Greatly appreciated.
I'll have to check the one I got in box from Tristan before too long.
Greatly appreciated.

M25 x 2, M50, M44, M100, Original MS 275, MS2125 & MS2250 (with shroud), XMax 15, White EQ215X, EQ232, PLD1,BLT, MX3, AX-406A, Basscubes, + Soundstream, Earthquake, RF, Boston, OZ Audio & KEF
- thedeal7235
- Posts: 1866
- Joined: Fri Jan 25, 2008 7:49 pm
- Location: Sanford, Florida(orlando area)
- nico boom
- Deus ex MS
- Posts: 2089
- Joined: Fri Jan 05, 2007 1:40 pm
- Location: the land of wooden shoes
When I would live in the US, I'd say "come over to my place and we'll do this operation together, making it a "clone cleaning day".
I have played test tones with it last evening, down to 10Hz, and it really MOVES AIR ; usable as a hairdryer, or to dust-off your stereo....
Playing at just under it's max excursion connected to the bridged ms2250 with a x-over point of 65 Hz.
I wanted to make absolutely sure this methode is working O.K, so that's why I tested it to produce no extra sounds, or distortion because of the coating I applied [quite a thick layer actually]
What do you guys mean by "if Im open for bussiness"?....
I won't have much time to post next couple of days; parents coming over to stay for a few days.....


I have played test tones with it last evening, down to 10Hz, and it really MOVES AIR ; usable as a hairdryer, or to dust-off your stereo....
Playing at just under it's max excursion connected to the bridged ms2250 with a x-over point of 65 Hz.
I wanted to make absolutely sure this methode is working O.K, so that's why I tested it to produce no extra sounds, or distortion because of the coating I applied [quite a thick layer actually]
What do you guys mean by "if Im open for bussiness"?....
I won't have much time to post next couple of days; parents coming over to stay for a few days.....


You have done it and those of us that are scared to attempt it will now be looking for someone to do it.
I have yet to eve test mine since I have had it. It was bought knowing that it didn't work and figured I or PG, or in this case now, YOU might be willing to clean it for myself and others for a price.
I have yet to eve test mine since I have had it. It was bought knowing that it didn't work and figured I or PG, or in this case now, YOU might be willing to clean it for myself and others for a price.
"ZPA's will have the same sound essentially as you get from the MS, they just feature a bigger shinier set of balls."
Install:
http://phoenixphorum.com/viewtopic.php?f=10&t=16998
Install:
http://phoenixphorum.com/viewtopic.php?f=10&t=16998
Ya! What he said ^^^^^!!!!smgreen20 wrote:You have done it and those of us that are scared to attempt it will now be looking for someone to do it.
I have yet to eve test mine since I have had it. It was bought knowing that it didn't work and figured I or PG, or in this case now, YOU might be willing to clean it for myself and others for a price.
hehe....I have two, so I'd love to get them both done. I have some trade fodder over here if you were interested Nico...!?

i'm wanting to have a play with my BNIB one now after reading about nico's NIB one...
is there a way i can test it to see if it's ok or not- ie rotate paddles by hand or something?
i'd use it in my system but i don't think 1.7cf isn't big enough plus the unit displaces 0.5cf itself!
is there a way i can test it to see if it's ok or not- ie rotate paddles by hand or something?
i'd use it in my system but i don't think 1.7cf isn't big enough plus the unit displaces 0.5cf itself!
Ti1 headunit (unique)
Outlaw in crate.
2x original shrouded ms2250's.
Route 66 in box + custom m100 to match.
Roadster 66 in flight case
Octane LE in box.
Reactor #186 in flight case.
Reactor EQ232
Ti400.2 AL
AX204A + EQ232 + ZPX2 + TBA set
ZCS6 component set
Tantrum+Titanium bass cubes
Ti12d Elite sub
DD5 + DD10 + 6 Ti blocks!
Outlaw in crate.
2x original shrouded ms2250's.
Route 66 in box + custom m100 to match.
Roadster 66 in flight case
Octane LE in box.
Reactor #186 in flight case.
Reactor EQ232
Ti400.2 AL
AX204A + EQ232 + ZPX2 + TBA set
ZCS6 component set
Tantrum+Titanium bass cubes
Ti12d Elite sub
DD5 + DD10 + 6 Ti blocks!
- nico boom
- Deus ex MS
- Posts: 2089
- Joined: Fri Jan 05, 2007 1:40 pm
- Location: the land of wooden shoes


Actually it was at one of the rare ocassions where I wear a suit; pics taken right after church, telling my kids to "go and play outside"


Best thing to do for you guys with a stuck cyclone is do -it-yourselves , or send it to PG; remember I'm on the other side of the pond here.
Would love to do it for you guys though.

Tom is right; don't even THINK about shipping and risk of damage during shipping; those people at PG know what they're doing!!


Doing so will leave imprints of your fingers in the lightweight foam of which the vanes are made of.
Use a battery of app. 3 volts or so, to check if the vane moves at all, and if so, if it moves without producing any abnormal sound.
When it moves smoothly, hook it up to an amp with sufficiant power, using a active crossover with low-pass signal.
Slowly turn up the power, holding the clone firmly in your hands and power it up until it just reaches it's max. excursion, using low-frequency test tones.
When this test proves the cyclone to move air without any extra [unwanted] sounds....THEN YOU SHOULD BE A HAPPY MAN....

If not; start reading at the beginning of this thread again.

Nico
- oldskoolmseriesfan
- Sherlock Homey
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- Joined: Sun Oct 19, 2008 10:03 pm
- Location: WEST SIIIIDE!!