Vids up.. Page 6!!

thedeal7235 · Post by **thedeal7235** » Thu Jan 15, 2009 7:55 pm

i just looked them up, thanks, is this aq3500? and i cant seem to find much more info, is this a class d, or class ab?, the aq3500 has 6LARGE RAIL CAPS, and from their sight retails for 699.99-im gonna email them-how much do u know about these guys???

Mackenzie · Post by **Mackenzie** » Thu Jan 15, 2009 8:37 pm

I actually have the aq 2200 amp. All the sub amps are class d. What did you want to know about them?

thedeal7235 · Post by **thedeal7235** » Thu Jan 15, 2009 8:59 pm

i read that amp has 24db/octave bult in xover, does it have a bypass switch?and, that 2200 is killing that 18?

Mackenzie · Post by **Mackenzie** » Thu Jan 15, 2009 9:16 pm

No bypass that I know of, but then again, I was in a rush to put it in, and didnt really look at much anything, so I could be wrong. I will check it out for you though tomorrow.... As for the 2200, yes its a monster. It can run at .5 ohms, and is capbable of nearly 4kw running at .5 ohms, as well as running at 1 ohm at 16v. My 18 is only using copper coils, and they cant take 2kw to good on copper coils. My subs heat up pretty quickly. I will say this though, off 1kw-2kw, its the loudest sub ive heard yet, but it just cant handle the serious power.. I am debating on getting a btl 18 with all the options.. As for the amp again, I am definately keeping it.

thedeal7235 · Post by **thedeal7235** » Thu Jan 15, 2009 10:13 pm

thanks man; their website doesnt offer much as far as owners manuel, but it does give internal pics of the amps

deathcloud · Post by **deathcloud** » Thu Jan 15, 2009 10:21 pm

Yea I would want that amp if I had some serious SPL shit but I think that my xenon 1200.1 will suffice two rsdc124 but if I somehow get the crazy idea to upgrade my subs to something bigger/better/more expensive...

oldskoolmseriesfan · Post by **oldskoolmseriesfan** » Fri Jan 16, 2009 12:23 am

Thought I'd just add this:

Post by **smgreen20** » Fri Jan 16, 2009 4:10 am

That is a very nice looking solid amp. Easy on the eyes. Nice and simple.

My feeling on running that amp at .5 ohms, it'll be ok for competition (burps) purposes but I wouldn't do it for daily driving.

And a note, at .5 ohms/3.5k watts, you'll need that 300 ampere fuse/breaker, the 150-200 wont hold.

Looks very good though. Would love to hear it myself. I'm head over heals with my two 12" TREO SSi12's. The box is sealed and big enough to be ported. Sealed it kicks my ass, I'd be scared to port it.

Now get a video up!!! No more warnings or we'll ban you!

thedeal7235 · Post by **thedeal7235** » Fri Jan 16, 2009 6:15 am

the 3500 has 8 rail/voltage caps-

Post by **stipud** » Fri Jan 16, 2009 8:26 am

thedeal7235 wrote:the 3500 has 8 rail/voltage caps-

It's not the number that matters, but the capacitance.

Here's a 900.7 to compare with:

thedeal7235 · Post by **thedeal7235** » Fri Jan 16, 2009 8:33 am

yes ,yes, yes, however when your used to pushing at least 1200 watts for a single amp dedicated to subs, i mean come on, the 900.7, is a beautiful amp, however, it would never be enuff power for me, but thats me, nor would i never consider getting one, but that Aq 3500 internal looks very impressive for just using as a mono sub amp-And, that 900.7 better have at least that amount of rail voltage caps b/c its 7 channels-

Mackenzie · Post by **Mackenzie** » Sun Jan 18, 2009 6:28 pm

thedeal7235 wrote:yes ,yes, yes, however when your used to pushing at least 1200 watts for a single amp dedicated to subs, i mean come on, the 900.7, is a beautiful amp, however, it would never be enuff power for me, but thats me, nor would i never consider getting one, but that Aq 3500 internal looks very impressive for just using as a mono sub amp-And, that 900.7 better have at least that amount of rail voltage caps b/c its 7 channels-

The 2200d I have Will do 2500 unclipped, and 3kw+ clipped, which was what I was running to my sub

In order for it to handle that extra clipped power, I needed the aluminum coils.. These amps are serious power houses.. The sub is absolutely insane aswell.. Loudest single sub setup I have heard to date. Can get uncomfortable listening to this monster at full tilt 3kw

Oh well, Im ordering another one on friday, and will be getting another battery for it.

Mackenzie · Post by **Mackenzie** » Sun Jan 18, 2009 6:30 pm

smgreen20 wrote:That is a very nice looking solid amp. Easy on the eyes. Nice and simple.

My feeling on running that amp at .5 ohms, it'll be ok for competition (burps) purposes but I wouldn't do it for daily driving.

And a note, at .5 ohms/3.5k watts, you'll need that 300 ampere fuse/breaker, the 150-200 wont hold.

Looks very good though. Would love to hear it myself. I'm head over heals with my two 12" TREO SSi12's. The box is sealed and big enough to be ported. Sealed it kicks my ass, I'd be scared to port it.

Now get a video up!!! No more warnings or we'll ban you!

I have been told that people have been running them daily with no issues.. With that said, I decided not to run it at .5 ohms.. Also, I am running a 300amp fuse.. Im just going to get a recone for my copper coil one to recone it to a d1 ohm, so that I can run the pair at 1ohm final. As for the appearance, I love it. Simple clean, and powerful

Mackenzie · Post by **Mackenzie** » Sun Jan 18, 2009 6:33 pm

As for the video, It will come when I get my recone and everything.. I will say this though, the whole car flexes something crazy. The hood looks like its about to pop open

Mackenzie · Post by **Mackenzie** » Sun Jan 18, 2009 6:46 pm

I may have to get this 4 channel aswell to match it up.. Its very sexy..

specs
Specifications
Model AQ4X90
Digital Four Channel Amp
Input Sensitivity 0.2V ~ 8V
Signal to Noise Ratio 100 <
Damping Factor 250 <
External Fuse Rating 2 x 30Amp
Tested Voltage and THD 14.4V & 1% THD
4 ohm Power 90W x 4
2 ohm Power 120W x 4
4 ohm Mono Power 240W x 2
Channel 1 and 2:
Variable X-over 45 Hz (450Hz) ~ 450Hz (4.5KHz) at 12dB/Oct.
X-over Multiply x 1, x 10
X-over Selector Clone 3/4/FULL/HPF
Channel 3 and 4:
Subsonic Filter 10~360 Hz at 12 dB/Oct.
Bass Boost 0~12 dB
Variable X-over 45 Hz (450Hz) ~ 450Hz (4.5KHz) at 12dB/Oct.
X-over Multiply x 1, x 10
X-over Selector LPF-BP /HPF-FULL
Outputs Line Out
Dimensions 350mm (L) x 238mm (W) x 59.6mm (H)

Post by **Jacampb2** » Sun Jan 18, 2009 7:47 pm

thedeal7235 wrote:the 900.7, is a beautiful amp, however, it would never be enuff power for me... And, that 900.7 better have at least that amount of rail voltage caps b/c its 7 channels-

All the channels in the 900.7 use the same set of rails, so it does actually have 8 caps on one set of rails, and has nothing to do with the number of channels. Not to put words in his mouth, but I believe Tom's point was, here is a much smaller overall rated power (something like 750Wrms all channels into 2 ohms) with more caps..

Mackenzie, help me understand the re-cone thing. I don't know anything about your sub, or the upgrades offered for it, but copper has both a lower resistance, and higher thermal conductivity than aluminum, how can an aluminum voice coil provide higher power handling? Is it possibly a aluminum VC former, instead of coated paper, or is it actually a aluminum coil. The formers do make a huge difference in power handeling, but I would think an actual aluminum coil will decrease it's power handeling.

As for the 4 channel amp, My take on it would be stay as far away from it as you can. According to the specs you posted, all ratings are at 1% THD. That is abysmal for a full range amp. The amp is also Class D, explaining the distortion numbers, and it appears to have a very, very small power supply.

The AQ2200 looks like a very solid amp, but it honestly looks very similar to most import class D amps. The price point seems lucrative enough, and I love the huge terminal blocks on it! I think anytime you get up into the 1Kw output range, you should be running 8g speaker wire, pain in the sack with screw terminal amps! I would love to know what mosfets it uses as outputs, and what ones it uses for PS mosfets. If you ever decide to tear it apart, let me know what's in it

As it is, it looks like 8 pairs of fets for the outputs. I am thinking the largest common die for mosfets is a 300W package. If that is the case, then running the amp harder than 2400W is asking the fets to dissipate more than they were designed for. Obviously, this is mostly a guess-- I am not ragging on it at all, I think it looks very good. I just think if you are going to really beat the piss out of it, you should run it hard while it is still in warranty to be sure it will take it

Later,
Jason

Mackenzie · Post by **Mackenzie** » Sun Jan 18, 2009 9:01 pm

Jacampb2 wrote:
thedeal7235 wrote:the 900.7, is a beautiful amp, however, it would never be enuff power for me... And, that 900.7 better have at least that amount of rail voltage caps b/c its 7 channels-
All the channels in the 900.7 use the same set of rails, so it does actually have 8 caps on one set of rails, and has nothing to do with the number of channels. Not to put words in his mouth, but I believe Tom's point was, here is a much smaller overall rated power (something like 750Wrms all channels into 2 ohms) with more caps..

Mackenzie, help me understand the re-cone thing. I don't know anything about your sub, or the upgrades offered for it, but copper has both a lower resistance, and higher thermal conductivity than aluminum, how can an aluminum voice coil provide higher power handling? Is it possibly a aluminum VC former, instead of coated paper, or is it actually a aluminum coil. The formers do make a huge difference in power handeling, but I would think an actual aluminum coil will decrease it's power handeling.

As for the 4 channel amp, My take on it would be stay as far away from it as you can. According to the specs you posted, all ratings are at 1% THD. That is abysmal for a full range amp. The amp is also Class D, explaining the distortion numbers, and it appears to have a very, very small power supply.

The AQ2200 looks like a very solid amp, but it honestly looks very similar to most import class D amps. The price point seems lucrative enough, and I love the huge terminal blocks on it! I think anytime you get up into the 1Kw output range, you should be running 8g speaker wire, pain in the sack with screw terminal amps! I would love to know what mosfets it uses as outputs, and what ones it uses for PS mosfets. If you ever decide to tear it apart, let me know what's in it As it is, it looks like 8 pairs of fets for the outputs. I am thinking the largest common die for mosfets is a 300W package. If that is the case, then running the amp harder than 2400W is asking the fets to dissipate more than they were designed for. Obviously, this is mostly a guess-- I am not ragging on it at all, I think it looks very good. I just think if you are going to really beat the piss out of it, you should run it hard while it is still in warranty to be sure it will take it

Later,
Jason

I am not sure how the whole powerhandling increases with the alum coils, but I will find out... As for the power of the amp, it will support 2500 watts. it will do that without clipping.. I have beat it all to hell already, and it stayed cool to the touch. Not even once did it warm up, but the sub on the other hand warmed up with the power, and slight clipping which resulted to 3kw or so..

About the 4 channel amp, I dont think that 1thd would be audible to the human ear. I think this has been discussed here before.

Post by **Jacampb2** » Sun Jan 18, 2009 10:32 pm

Mackenzie wrote:About the 4 channel amp, I dont think that 1thd would be audible to the human ear. I think this has been discussed here before.

Anything bellow 0.1% is the accepted number for THD to be inaudible to the average human ear. The amp is rated at 10x that amount. 1% THD is not a big deal for a sub amp, as it is harder to hear low frequency distortion, but it is a big deal on a full range amp.

Later,
Jason

Post by **fuzzysnuggleduck** » Sun Jan 18, 2009 11:00 pm

Pretty sure the CEA ratings are at 1% THD+N.

Post by **Jacampb2** » Sun Jan 18, 2009 11:46 pm

That is correct, but the CEA standards, are test standards, and set limits that govern how the amplifier is tested, and the specifications that can be reported. The current CEA standard says that to wear the CEA label, the amplifier has to be tested for RMS power w/ 14.4V input voltage, 4 ohm load, and less than 1% THD. It doesn't mean that 1% THD is inaudible, it means that that is the highest official power rating the amp can have. Many time the amp can easily exceed it's CEA rating, but at the expense of more distortion. I would expect that the rating was established at that limit simply because Class D amps have much more distortion than Class AB amps. For all intents and purposes, it doesn't matter for a sub amp which is what Class D has historically been used for. It is only a recent event that has allowed full range Class D amps to even meet the 1% mark. The exception would be the Tripath amps, which are still Class D (though they marketed it as Class T, there is no such thing) although they use a very unique architecture.

To make matters worse, Class D amps typically produce a lot of odd order harmonic distortion and high frequency distortion, odd order harmonics are very noticeable, and displeasing to most listeners. Most even order distortion gets interpreted as "spaciousness" and can actually make the sound seem to be more live or real. Too bad they don't tell us what the major components of the measured distortion are.

Anyhow, if you are happy with 1% in a full range amp, then by all means do it. I would not be happy with it at all, and since it seems there is some confusion, hopefully this will help anyone else who is considering a full range class d.

Later,
Jason

Post by **smgreen20** » Mon Jan 19, 2009 3:49 am

Jacampb2 wrote:
thedeal7235 wrote:
Mackenzie, help me understand the re-cone thing. I don't know anything about your sub, or the upgrades offered for it, but copper has both a lower resistance, and higher thermal conductivity than aluminum, how can an aluminum voice coil provide higher power handling? Is it possibly a aluminum VC former, instead of coated paper, or is it actually a aluminum coil. The formers do make a huge difference in power handeling, but I would think an actual aluminum coil will decrease it's power handeling.

I agree as my 6-4 job has we welding aluminum and it's hard to learn, but easy to weld oce you know how. My point is, Alum is VERY soft and wouldn't take much at all to ruin it. Just find out about the re-cone before you buy it.

Mackenzie · Post by **Mackenzie** » Mon Jan 19, 2009 6:10 am

I have personally talked to the owner, and have read through several threads.. The alum handles much more power from what I was told, and Is hand everything is hand built in the usa. All the large spl subs have alum coils, fi btl, re mt, and so on and so forth..

Post by **smgreen20** » Mon Jan 19, 2009 6:37 am

What you're being told and what really is are two different things. Just don't want to see you (or the sub for that matter) get burnt. *pun intended*

I've worked w/aluminum every day for the past 9 years. I know its properties and boundries, but it doesn't seem logical still. That's all.

Post by **stipud** » Mon Jan 19, 2009 7:12 am

Mackenzie wrote:

Compared to the X200.4 you would be replacing:

Even the X100.2:

I don't think I have to tell you which is better.

gkitching · Post by **gkitching** » Mon Jan 19, 2009 8:18 am

oldskoolmseriesfan wrote:Yes, a very nice amp indeed. You BROKE your rear view mirror and now your goin with more POWER? WWWWOOOOOOOHHHHHOOOOOOOO. Im startin to miss the SPL days. I cant do that until I get my own vehicle though, SQ for the kids atleast,but daddy needs his SPL! I cant believe you snapped the arm of your rear view dude,that is shear AWESOMENESS!!!