JL 10W6v2 questions...

5.9Limited · Post by **5.9Limited** » Tue Feb 17, 2009 1:41 pm

Hey all. I've got a new pair of JL 10w6's that I'll be running off of a 600ti amp...

1st> whats the proper size box tohave .. going to be sealed...how big should they be??

2nd> they're 4ohm subs, the 600ti is stable at 2ohms... any way to get the w6's to run at 2 ohms??? Im little green on this...

3rd> need a wiring schematic on how to run these off of the 600ti...

thanks!!!!!!

Post by **stipud** » Tue Feb 17, 2009 1:48 pm

For a sealed box, I always go with the largest size that they recommend in the factory manual.

Way better to avoid using 2 ohms if you can, since it increases heat and power consumption disproportionately to the negligible increase in power. 4 ohms bridged (or 2 ohms stereo) would be ideal, and fortunately that's the only way you can wire them anyways.

So you could either wire the subs in parallel then connect each individual sub to a channel on the amp... OR you could wire the subs individually in series, then wire the subs in parallel for a 4 ohm load, which you would then connect to the bridged terminals of the amp. My choice would personally be stereo if you can build a divided box, or guarantee that you will be feeding the amp a mono bass signal.

Wiring the subs individually with the W6 is easy...
http://mobile.jlaudio.com/products_subs ... page_id=64

To connect the subs together in parallel for bridged operation, you would just connect - to - and + to +

Post by **mhyde71** » Tue Feb 17, 2009 2:38 pm

@ TOM - when you say "Way better to avoid using 2 ohms if you can..." what exactly do you mean by that?? meaning wiring them for 2-ohm load or 2-ohm drivers in general?? or is this now a loaded question?? I am asking b/c I have the 12w6's and have separate chambers in box, and have them wired for 2 ohm load to the MS2250 Orig amp... is that how you might go about it or would you do a 4 ohm bridge ??

I am not having any trouble with heating/ventilation... so I am inclined to think that the 2-ohm load performance is okay to work with... but, I am always looking for ways to improve...

Given my box is separate chambers for the subs... is it best / the ideal way to go with having them in stereo mode @ 2-ohms???

hope i am not thread jacking... but same subs, and simliar type questions that readers might be able to benefit from - so hey! That's the deal!
pls thx

Post by **stipud** » Tue Feb 17, 2009 2:48 pm

Matt,

I was talking 2 ohms bridged (aka 1 ohm stereo) on the 600Ti. Just because it's 2 ohm bridged "stable", doesn't mean it's ideal. If he was running an amp like the Ti1200.1 (which is 2 ohm optimized and 1 ohm stable), running at 2 ohms would be no problem, but again, 1 ohm would be pushing it.

Similarly, 2 ohms bridged on your MS2250 would cause a much bigger heating problem. Sounds like you've got it at 2 ohms stereo (or 4 ohms bridged), which should be ideal. Your heating issues are simply due to your install. The original MS2250's needed a shroud just to run at 4 ohms bridged, and even then they get DAMN HOT. You need to move lots of air over the amp, and ventilate that hot air with fresh cool air as well.

5.9Limited · Post by **5.9Limited** » Tue Feb 17, 2009 4:27 pm

so i looked at the diagram... so you think i should run parralel...and yes I was going to run these is separate boxes.. so to wire them..I would connect the jumpers like the diagram shows..and then connect the terminals on the other side of the speaker to one channel of the amp, not the bridged ports right??

Post by **stipud** » Tue Feb 17, 2009 5:45 pm

5.9Limited wrote:so i looked at the diagram... so you think i should run parralel...and yes I was going to run these is separate boxes.. so to wire them..I would connect the jumpers like the diagram shows..and then connect the terminals on the other side of the speaker to one channel of the amp, not the bridged ports right??

Yeah, the subs would be hooked up in parallel (factory setting, two wires).

Then run one speaker wire from each sub directly to the amp... left sub to left channel, right sub to right channel.

5.9Limited · Post by **5.9Limited** » Tue Feb 17, 2009 6:12 pm

cool. I was pretty sure thats how to run em , but its always worth asking. You guys seem to have quite a few tricks up yer sleeves. Thanks for your help...

Post by **smgreen20** » Wed Feb 18, 2009 7:04 pm

Do the newer w6's not have 6 ohm VCs?

Post by **kg1961** » Wed Feb 18, 2009 7:12 pm

dual 4

5.9Limited · Post by **5.9Limited** » Wed Feb 18, 2009 8:06 pm

yeah a friend of mine thought that because they were the "W6" that they were 6ohm...

new question...does building a box to have your subs fire down affect the sound at all??? im trying to build my system to be work/family friendly...and if I built the box to be elevated 4-5 inches and had the subs firing down, they'd be protected from my misc, detailing supplies, and/or strollers, luggage etc... a trusted friend of mine has done this in the past and said it worked great...just looking for any other opinoins.... thanks.

oldskoolmseriesfan · Post by **oldskoolmseriesfan** » Wed Feb 18, 2009 9:14 pm

If I were to do something similar, I would fire them down at a slight angle to make sure there is no cancellation.Feel free to correct me if I am wrong

Post by **mhyde71** » Wed Feb 18, 2009 9:29 pm

600 watts...

think thats how they derived from it.. b/c the W3's are 300 watts and the W6's are 600... but it doesn't follow suit with the W7's, nor the W0's that'd be 0Watts

Post by **stipud** » Thu Feb 19, 2009 8:09 am

5.9Limited wrote:yeah a friend of mine thought that because they were the "W6" that they were 6ohm...

new question...does building a box to have your subs fire down affect the sound at all??? im trying to build my system to be work/family friendly...and if I built the box to be elevated 4-5 inches and had the subs firing down, they'd be protected from my misc, detailing supplies, and/or strollers, luggage etc... a trusted friend of mine has done this in the past and said it worked great...just looking for any other opinoins.... thanks.

Downfiring subs is very common in home theater systems. My friend Sonnie, who is a big HT guy, installed his Xenons in this fashion and really liked it.

You will need at least an inch for excursion, and a few more inches to let the air escape. The less the flow of air is impeded, the better.

Of course you could just install grilles on a normal box as well

Clint · Post by **Clint** » Thu Feb 19, 2009 1:35 pm

I'm all about the downward firing subs, I've built/installed many,always have sounded good. Only draw back is you can't see how cool the subs look, unless you install plexi to see the woofer's baskets.

5.9Limited · Post by **5.9Limited** » Fri Feb 20, 2009 5:44 pm

yeah clint thanks since it was YOUR idea...I'll give you props on that...

yeah I could use the grills but I don't want them to get beat either.. do the subs come with the grilles or are they separate?

like i said this is my daily drive for my biz, for work, and kids and such...my wife uses it as well and I jsut want it to be a no worries install all around. I am bummed that you would't see the subs though

JL 10W6v2 questions...

JL 10W6v2 questions...

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