Stryker's 96 T-Bird 3k daily

[dedlyjedly]

...I should run a smaller wire to the factory mega fuse even hook up the factory one thats still there not being used and in addition of course run a separate 0ga straight from the alt. to the battery+ this wire will absorb the brunt of the current draw. I hope this is the solution as I honestly didn't feel too good about replacing that mega fuse at all.

That's exactly what I meant by redundant circuits. Whenever I do the big three I typically don't upgrade them. Instead, I add new beefy circuits while leaving the factory wiring and protection measures in place.

If you're confused about the numbers gridracer and I provided about blowing fuses this might help. Scroll down to "Fuse Opening Time" and look at the chart.
http://www.bcae1.com/fuses.htm
These are general numbers but provide an example of what we were referring to. Different types of fuses from reputable manufacturers will have specs like that available so you can make educated decisions when it comes to circuit protection.

A google search for something like "MEGA fuse opening times" or "ANL fuse opening times" and a little digging should provide you with all the info you need. Check it out and tell me what important footnote is typically added to the detailed specs for a 300A ANL fuse!

[eulogious]

That's exactly what I meant by redundant circuits. Whenever I do the big three I typically don't upgrade them. Instead, I add new beefy circuits while leaving the factory wiring and protection measures in place.

If you're confused about the numbers gridracer and I provided about blowing fuses this might help. Scroll down to "Fuse Opening Time" and look at the chart.
http://www.bcae1.com/fuses.htm
These are general numbers but provide an example of what we were referring to. Different types of fuses from reputable manufacturers will have specs like that available so you can make educated decisions when it comes to circuit protection.

This is what I just did when I did my alt upgrade earlier this week. I just left the stock wiring in place and ran a new wire. The current will flow down the path of least resistance, so the bigger wire is going to provide the least resistance, so therefore the factory wiring is still ok and should never see the added amps...

I read that fuse page on bcae about 15 times to make sure I understood it. It took a few times but I finally understood it. Glad you got it worked out!

But I must say that this install is nuckin' futz Good work! keep the pics coming!

[dedlyjedly]

...a little digging should provide you with all the info you need. Check it out and tell me what important footnote is typically added to the detailed specs for a 300A ANL fuse!

Just reviewing this thread and realized nobody did any checking into the manufacturer spec sheets....so I'll fill you in. The biggest ANL fuses will be noted with something to the effect that it will blow ONLY in the event of a DEAD SHORT due to factory tolerances!

[Stryker]

ya i didn'y go back after i returned the 175 amp fuse to it's rightful place. i just ran 4ga to it then to the batt. and ran a separate 0ga from the alt to the batt. and then onto the trunk. works so far. i'm gonna be updating the work that i've recently as i finally have new battery's for the dang camera.

[12voltjunky]

I really like what you've dont with the t-bird. totally BA

i can't wait to see more pics. this is really going to help me when i do the big 3 with my 200 amp alt.

[Stryker]

I hear it dude.
It's a combination of bad weather on my days off and most days here in Calgary for that matter, 2 young children and no garage and alot of gear to install. I'm currently in the middle of installing 2 Optima's in the spare tire well, running more 0Ga and replacing the headunit with a Clarion 7 inch DVD flipout. I'm so close to being done with it....Until the end of the month when I go for a drive 3 hr's north to pick up an all black Tbird SC leather interior with a fold down frickin seat :Dyee haw!!! finally found the complete set after what seems like 5 years of looking, and it's in very nice condition with no rips. I will post more pic's this week after I get the batts in and DVD workin.

[12voltjunky]

^nice score, congrats dude!

[Stryker]

Well as promised I have a couple of more pic's. I installed the dual battery's that are ran in parallel with the one up front in the trunk and the new DVD 7" flipout deck last night, It all powers up and works just fine, along with the overide module to watch DVD's without the park brake on. I have to admit this has become a huge amount of work to just do in my spare time which I do not have all that much of. The weather here suks as it rains almost every single day in the late afternoon or evening when I have a few hours to do stuff on my ride and it's raining right now on my day off. Combined with a new school year and kids and activity's. That being said my honey has been very understanding and even came out to lend a hand for a sec . First off the camera's battery's did not last so I'll try and get a few more pic's up later after I go to the wally world to get a couple more.
Okay, so I drilled a couple of holes through the wheel well and bolted down a piece of MDF to it to act as a solid piece to strap to batts to. The wheel well itself is uneven sooo.... this way the batts are sitting level. I used metal strapping to wrap around each batt and screwed them down under the batts and to the sub box as tight as possible. these are not goin anywhere under normal driving. Trust me I did not want to put holes in the subbox but these batts needed to be secured as good as possible. I siliconed over the screws and duct taped it over. i'm not worried about any leaks at all from the box. This is my first extra battery(s) install so I'm a newb at it. the wires are sorta piece meal but hey 0ga is pricey and so are ring terminals. I ran a ground wire to the alt bracket from the trunk as well as kept the rear one i already had(Car is a uni body). it's better to have an entire uninterrupted piece of wire than to use the body of the car and all it's welds and so on when I'm running this much curent flow(less resistance).
I also manufactured a $5 fuse holder cause I'm sick and tired of paying ridiculous prices at any store here for a dam fuse holder. found the idea from EXOcontrallta on youtube. it works, so good for me, just wish i had a case or something. I'll be picking up a black leather seat set that has a folddown rear seat from an SC Tbird at the end of Sept. That gain a few decibels . Anyway long post but there is so much I've done prolly forgot some stuff I'll post more pic's later of the engine bay and the wiring there.

[dwnrodeo]

You canadians and your duct tape. No worries, I used some in my last install to keep the noise barrier together better. It is a bit tacky on the battery terminals and fuse, but I can see your reasoning behind it.

[Stryker]

You canadians and your duct tape. No worries, I used some in my last install to keep the noise barrier together better. It is a bit tacky on the battery terminals and fuse, but I can see your reasoning behind it.

ya i know it is tacky but you can't see the batts at all with the amp rack in place. i'll post up more pic's of it later.

[Stryker]

Ok welll been some time since I've updated the ongoing install. very busy and just don't have a ton of time, that and no garage,kids, crummy weather on my day off, low motivation etc etc
ok so I've removed the RSD 6.5's from the doors and bought some sweet ass Kicker c6.5a old skool subs, they are 8 ohm and I'm running them off the rear channels bridged for I think 125 per sub at 4ohms... perfect . Sounds absolutely f'ing amazing . I have to really tune it tomorrow when I have some time. Was a tight fit to clear the speaker opening without risk of the surround hitting but thats what utility knives are for , trimmed off some plastic and voila' no problem with clearance at all. I also layered alot of deadener on the inside of the door as well.
I could actually feel the bass on my back and legs from the front end when I had the 12's in the rear disconnected for a quicky tune. needs some more attention but it sounds very nice to say the least. I'm very happy.
I have some pic's of the fold down seat in black leather, it has made a nice addition to the overall car as well as the fronts to match. I trimmed the metal in the middle with the old jigsaw for an unobstructed blast of port air . It has to be felt to honestly understand the amount of air being moved it is truly remarkable. I do believe one of those hair tricks could be done...Now if only my wife would volunteer her time
I also rigged up some better enclosures for the RSd's on the floor and it made a HUGE ASS improvement in the overall kick and impact from them.
I was running them kinda pseudo free air before and the sound was good but thinish if that makes much sense. they are now air tight and have an enclosure just a bit bigger than half a CFL size football There is about 3 layers inside and out of the b-quiet deadener, very solid and forms to the floor and firewall. Both sides are similar, I would like to redo the carpeted panel in the spring to fit nicer as there is a couple of areas that I would like to fit just a wee bit tighter, no matter it works well and looks decent enough ATM. They are held down using industrial grade velcro and I had a hell of a time pulling it up for the pic's, very solidly held in place trust me on that one. The trunk is pretty well the same I just gotta tidy it up for the winter and then in the spring I'm gonna redo it and add the Tantrum neons to it that I've acquired, I have 4-8 incher's to use. Oh and I've gotten rid of all the purple RCA's and replaced with all Stinger expert which I think are the top one's they make,
hella pricey but i got a good price, also replaced purple power and + sub wires with Knu Konceptz matte blue looks mucho better. I never really liked the purple just fit the budget at the time. If you've read this whole post kudo's and thx. enjoy the pic's

[gridracer]

You should know that duct tape has metallic properties and will conduct electricity so using it on your wiring and terminals to prevent shorts is not gonna do much.

[dwnrodeo]

You should know that duct tape has metallic properties and will conduct electricity so using it on your wiring and terminals to prevent shorts is not gonna do much.

Real duct tape yes, but that duct tape (duck tape). No. Electrical tape is still preferred though.

[Stryker]

You should know that duct tape has metallic properties and will conduct electricity so using it on your wiring and terminals to prevent shorts is not gonna do much.

I removed it a few weeks ago. I didn't feel it was necessary.

[stipud]

Nice seats mang! But with your talent you should be able to fiberglass some real kickpods by now! I expect nothing less next summer!

Are you going to be tidying up the front of the sub box now that it will be visible?

[Stryker]

Nice seats mang! But with your talent you should be able to fiberglass some real kickpods by now! I expect nothing less next summer!

Are you going to be tidying up the front of the sub box now that it will be visible?

thx bro The seats are super comfy and have power lumbar and power side bolsters and they still all work Yes I have to/going to take some filler and tidy up the screw holes and do a better job of the paint. possibly tomorrow as it's really warm at the moment and for the next 5-6 days. Fibreglass is the next thing for sure, I have all the stuff as a good pal dropped it on my door step a month ago. Car audio is never ending

[gridracer]

You should know that duct tape has metallic properties and will conduct electricity so using it on your wiring and terminals to prevent shorts is not gonna do much.

Real duct tape yes, but that duct tape (duck tape). No. Electrical tape is still preferred though.

The duck tape brand of duct tape also has metallic properties.

[fuzzysnuggleduck]

Apparently duct tape / duck tape is made of a cotton weave, polyethylene and adhesive. Polyethylene can be conductive. Not sure if ALL polyethylene is conductive or not, though.

[Stryker]

Hey all,
So I filled all the countersunk screw holes and sanded and then painted the front flat black over the course of the last three days, what a PITA. Dust like mad and fumes like crazy, i had to spray it in the car.... Not too sure if I dig the flat black look as it shows every small imperfection. I was thinking about maybe a metallic black or even the color of my car(Alpine green, it's metallic too). The green may look goofy with the red DD symbol tho. Let me know what you guys think I should do.
I've already considered black speaker box carpet too. Thats an option but I don't feel like removing the subs ATM....it's brrrrrrr cold up here.
should I leave it alone,paint it a different color, what do ya think?

[stipud]

Wow! That looks killer! I say keep it as is... it's nice in a form follows function kinda way.

[ttocs]

starting to look better with every pic

[kg1961]

looking great good job

[smokeyand thebandit]

Nice work!! Must be loud... shaking your buddies windows in his house. Good thread I picked up some stuff with this, time to upgrade the subs.

[smokeyand thebandit]

Are those battery straps made of duct-tape?

[Stryker]

Are those battery straps made of duct-tape?

no It's metal straps I bought at the hardware store.Just wrap them so they wouldn't start to chaff into the battery. I gotta come up with a better idea in the springtime. It's gettin cold and i have no garage
Yah it's loud but it sounds very good and is quite balanced if i leave the LPL all the way down. it's nice havin the power when i want it loud.