Is it safe to run rsd 1200.1 at 1.34 ohm's

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00goobs
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Post by 00goobs »

I had a little 91 Toyota truck and fit a 12" sealed on the passenger's floor and another on the seat, you don't really need passengers, do you? A nice towel makes for a good theft deterrent, hehehe....

Not sure if you've seen them, but you may be able to fit an 8" bazooka tube or get bucket seats and make a center console/enclosure...
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Stryker
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Post by Stryker »

oldschoolfan wrote:If you are in love with the idea of using all three of those subs and you are only 1.5 inches too short on space, you should just copy the dimensions of the factory kicker enclosures and build one enclosure to fit all three. As in just make one long box. The inch and a half you are missing in your truck can be made up by eliminating the extra material in having three boxes, you know where all three would be butting up end to end. You could even keep them divided with their own air space if you wanted to. It can be done and keep that same volume kicker designed them to have.

It sounds like you really need to update your electrical supply. Big three is essential. A second battery would be sweet too especially if your truck already has the space for it under the hood. Don't be afraid of them being connected to each other. It is best however if the two batteries are identical in brand, age, series, and cca.
yup for sure run your batts parallel
screw car audio, I'd rather go fast....errr, wait a minute.
smokeyand thebandit
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Post by smokeyand thebandit »

I am looking at batteries and other stuff at darvex try to figure out the right combo. I am wondering why it's hard to find side posts with higher amperage's. Is the optima yellow top D34/78 going to be enough? I only have room for one battery with major mod's.
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smokeyand thebandit
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Post by smokeyand thebandit »

without any major mod's to the intake. I like the idea of dual terminal. so I can run the factory stuff on the side posts and the stereo and charging system off the top posts. here is a list
Show product details for 20 Stinger 0 Gauge Ring Terminals 20 Stinger 0 Gauge Ring Terminals (SPT8101-20)
$29.50 $29.50 Remove from cart

Show product details for Stinger 80 Amp Shoc-Krome MIDI Fuse Stinger 80 Amp Shoc-Krome MIDI Fuse (SPF5880)
$2.71 $13.55 Remove from cart

Show product details for Stinger 30 Amp Shoc-Krome MIDI Fuse Stinger 30 Amp Shoc-Krome MIDI Fuse (SPF5830)
$2.71 $13.55 Remove from cart

Show product details for XScorpion 10 Gauge Blue / Silver Speaker Wire XScorpion 10 Gauge Blue / Silver Speaker Wire (S10.200PB)
$0.79 $39.50 Remove from cart

Show product details for Scosche EFX MIDI Distribution/Combination Power-Gr Scosche EFX MIDI Distribution/Combination Power-Gr (DBLOCK)
$42.70 $42.70 Remove from cart

Show product details for Stinger 150 Amp ANL Gold Finish Fuse Stinger 150 Amp ANL Gold Finish Fuse (SPF82150)
$6.02 $6.02 Remove from cart

Show product details for XScorpion Gold Ring Battery Terminal XScorpion Gold Ring Battery Terminal (BTRG)
$10.50 $21.00 Remove from cart
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ttocs
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Post by ttocs »

the schosche d-block made me do a double take. I am fairly sure they sell those at wallmart to be honest....
what else can I say I am a grumpy asshole most of the time.
smokeyand thebandit
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Post by smokeyand thebandit »

Upgrade big three, ditch the cap, get a new battery, upgrade to 1/0 wire, build a new sub box, possible new alt. I really like the stinger 1500D but the shipping killed it.
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Stryker
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Post by Stryker »

you should probably have a larger fuse than 80amps for those amps, the 1200 alone is fused at 120. and 0Ga requires more than an 80 amp fuse too, I believe anyway.....
screw car audio, I'd rather go fast....errr, wait a minute.
smokeyand thebandit
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Post by smokeyand thebandit »

ttocs wrote:the schosche d-block made me do a double take. I am fairly sure they sell those at wallmart to be honest....
This is the reason I'm asking around here. Do you have a better suggestion for me?
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Stryker
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Post by Stryker »

^^^^ where abouts do you live? Wally world should have some of the things you need. I've bought from an online shop called bag-boys. They have reasonable prices.
screw car audio, I'd rather go fast....errr, wait a minute.
smokeyand thebandit
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Post by smokeyand thebandit »

1/0 gauge came with a 200 amp anl fuse but i was going to run a 150 instead. then get a fused distribution block with 80 amps to the 1200.1 and 30 amp fuses to the 300/4. I can still order 120 amp fuses and keep 1/0 at 200 amps.
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Stryker
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Post by Stryker »

smokeyand thebandit wrote:1/0 gauge came with a 200 amp anl fuse but i was going to run a 150 instead. then get a fused distribution block with 80 amps to the 1200.1 and 30 amp fuses to the 300/4. I can still order 120 amp fuses and keep 1/0 at 200 amps.
I would use the 200 close to the batt. I myself use no fuse distro at the amps, i use an unfused distro block by stinger for 2-0gauge in then it splits in 4-4Ga out.... just the way i've always run my stuff. 80 amps is cutting it close for the 1200.1 as it has 3-40 amp fuses plugged into it and i think 30 amps is too small for the 300.4, if you go too small you may be popin fuses when you get the volume up and they start to consume more amps from your alt. you should match the amperage of the fuses in the amps with the fuses in your distro.
screw car audio, I'd rather go fast....errr, wait a minute.
smokeyand thebandit
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Post by smokeyand thebandit »

I do live close to whalley world :hurr: I'm in north delta
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gridracer
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Post by gridracer »

nothing
Last edited by gridracer on Wed Nov 10, 2010 1:55 am, edited 1 time in total.
Check my buyer/seller ratings http://phoenixphorum.com/gridracer-vt4548.html

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smokeyand thebandit
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Post by smokeyand thebandit »

Stryker wrote:
smokeyand thebandit wrote:1/0 gauge came with a 200 amp anl fuse but i was going to run a 150 instead. then get a fused distribution block with 80 amps to the 1200.1 and 30 amp fuses to the 300/4. I can still order 120 amp fuses and keep 1/0 at 200 amps.
I would use the 200 close to the batt. I myself use no fuse distro at the amps, i use an unfused distro block by stinger for 2-0gauge in then it splits in 4-4Ga out.... just the way i've always run my stuff. 80 amps is cutting it close for the 1200.1 as it has 3-40 amp fuses plugged into it and i think 30 amps is too small for the 300.4, if you go too small you may be popin fuses when you get the volume up and they start to consume more amps from your alt. you should match the amperage of the fuses in the amps with the fuses in your distro.
do you run your grounds seperatly?
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Stryker
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Post by Stryker »

smokeyand thebandit wrote:I do live close to whalley world :hurr: I'm in north delta
go and see what they have. I'm not too sure they have all that much. the US stores carry more CA stuff and up here. Also I would run an Optima group 31 if it fits or the smaller 34 with side and top posts like ya said. Do the big 3 and you should be okay. Only thing is running that 1200 at 1ohm it's gonna be a power hog. when you have more $ or if you do right now, i would grab a couple of dual 4 ohm 10 or 12" PG RSdC's(very good price on those for what you get), then you can run the 1200 at 2ohm's. It will live alot longer and provide around 1400 rms if you give it a solid 13.8v's and above. Seems like your on the right path. At 1ohm for the 1200 def. use the 200 amp by the battery, maybe even 250.
screw car audio, I'd rather go fast....errr, wait a minute.
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Stryker
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Post by Stryker »

smokeyand thebandit wrote:
Stryker wrote:
smokeyand thebandit wrote:1/0 gauge came with a 200 amp anl fuse but i was going to run a 150 instead. then get a fused distribution block with 80 amps to the 1200.1 and 30 amp fuses to the 300/4. I can still order 120 amp fuses and keep 1/0 at 200 amps.
I would use the 200 close to the batt. I myself use no fuse distro at the amps, i use an unfused distro block by stinger for 2-0gauge in then it splits in 4-4Ga out.... just the way i've always run my stuff. 80 amps is cutting it close for the 1200.1 as it has 3-40 amp fuses plugged into it and i think 30 amps is too small for the 300.4, if you go too small you may be popin fuses when you get the volume up and they start to consume more amps from your alt. you should match the amperage of the fuses in the amps with the fuses in your distro.
do you run your grounds seperatly?
yes, I run them the same way with it's own distro block but the same kind.
screw car audio, I'd rather go fast....errr, wait a minute.
gridracer
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Post by gridracer »

nothing
Last edited by gridracer on Wed Nov 10, 2010 1:55 am, edited 1 time in total.
Check my buyer/seller ratings http://phoenixphorum.com/gridracer-vt4548.html

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Stryker
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Post by Stryker »

this is what I use
http://cgi.ebay.com/STINGER-SPD514-POWE ... 3cb1c593e9
one grounds one for power
screw car audio, I'd rather go fast....errr, wait a minute.
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Stryker
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Post by Stryker »

gridracer wrote:do not use 200 or 250 amp fuse at battery that is too high read my last post
oh ok, but i always thought you ran the fuse size for the amount of amperage the wire was capable of holding before it caught fire. something like that.
screw car audio, I'd rather go fast....errr, wait a minute.
smokeyand thebandit
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Post by smokeyand thebandit »

the mounting depth is a killer on this truck I would rather have 12's. I picked up the kicker's for an easy fit no work at all. these barley fit back there and they cut out the back of the box to get the magnet in.ImageI know it's not the best vehicle to put a stereo in but I it's what I got
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gridracer
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Post by gridracer »

nothing
Last edited by gridracer on Wed Nov 10, 2010 1:56 am, edited 1 time in total.
Check my buyer/seller ratings http://phoenixphorum.com/gridracer-vt4548.html

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smokeyand thebandit
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Post by smokeyand thebandit »

this is the kicker spec # Mounting Depth (IN.,CM) 4-1/4, 10.8
# Mounting Cutout (IN.,CM) 9-3/16, 23.3
# Recommended Sealed Box Volume: 0.8 - 3.0 cubic feet
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Stryker
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Post by Stryker »

Gotta work with what ya have. You can still have great sound if you havegood mids and tweets. Bass is great but not the end all be all. especially when you have limited space to install a box(s) DD makes some really badass 8's as do some other company's.
screw car audio, I'd rather go fast....errr, wait a minute.
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Stryker
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Post by Stryker »

gridracer wrote:well if you run a 250 amp fuse the amps are going to get 500 amps for about 5 seconds until the fuse blows at the battery I am not sure those amps would like that amount of current for that long.
Hmmm, I guess not.
screw car audio, I'd rather go fast....errr, wait a minute.
smokeyand thebandit
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Post by smokeyand thebandit »

We'll I got to buy something :idiot:
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