Is it safe to run rsd 1200.1 at 1.34 ohm's
I had a little 91 Toyota truck and fit a 12" sealed on the passenger's floor and another on the seat, you don't really need passengers, do you? A nice towel makes for a good theft deterrent, hehehe....
Not sure if you've seen them, but you may be able to fit an 8" bazooka tube or get bucket seats and make a center console/enclosure...
Not sure if you've seen them, but you may be able to fit an 8" bazooka tube or get bucket seats and make a center console/enclosure...
yup for sure run your batts paralleloldschoolfan wrote:If you are in love with the idea of using all three of those subs and you are only 1.5 inches too short on space, you should just copy the dimensions of the factory kicker enclosures and build one enclosure to fit all three. As in just make one long box. The inch and a half you are missing in your truck can be made up by eliminating the extra material in having three boxes, you know where all three would be butting up end to end. You could even keep them divided with their own air space if you wanted to. It can be done and keep that same volume kicker designed them to have.
It sounds like you really need to update your electrical supply. Big three is essential. A second battery would be sweet too especially if your truck already has the space for it under the hood. Don't be afraid of them being connected to each other. It is best however if the two batteries are identical in brand, age, series, and cca.
screw car audio, I'd rather go fast....errr, wait a minute.
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without any major mod's to the intake. I like the idea of dual terminal. so I can run the factory stuff on the side posts and the stereo and charging system off the top posts. here is a list
Show product details for 20 Stinger 0 Gauge Ring Terminals 20 Stinger 0 Gauge Ring Terminals (SPT8101-20)
$29.50 $29.50 Remove from cart
Show product details for Stinger 80 Amp Shoc-Krome MIDI Fuse Stinger 80 Amp Shoc-Krome MIDI Fuse (SPF5880)
$2.71 $13.55 Remove from cart
Show product details for Stinger 30 Amp Shoc-Krome MIDI Fuse Stinger 30 Amp Shoc-Krome MIDI Fuse (SPF5830)
$2.71 $13.55 Remove from cart
Show product details for XScorpion 10 Gauge Blue / Silver Speaker Wire XScorpion 10 Gauge Blue / Silver Speaker Wire (S10.200PB)
$0.79 $39.50 Remove from cart
Show product details for Scosche EFX MIDI Distribution/Combination Power-Gr Scosche EFX MIDI Distribution/Combination Power-Gr (DBLOCK)
$42.70 $42.70 Remove from cart
Show product details for Stinger 150 Amp ANL Gold Finish Fuse Stinger 150 Amp ANL Gold Finish Fuse (SPF82150)
$6.02 $6.02 Remove from cart
Show product details for XScorpion Gold Ring Battery Terminal XScorpion Gold Ring Battery Terminal (BTRG)
$10.50 $21.00 Remove from cart
Show product details for 20 Stinger 0 Gauge Ring Terminals 20 Stinger 0 Gauge Ring Terminals (SPT8101-20)
$29.50 $29.50 Remove from cart
Show product details for Stinger 80 Amp Shoc-Krome MIDI Fuse Stinger 80 Amp Shoc-Krome MIDI Fuse (SPF5880)
$2.71 $13.55 Remove from cart
Show product details for Stinger 30 Amp Shoc-Krome MIDI Fuse Stinger 30 Amp Shoc-Krome MIDI Fuse (SPF5830)
$2.71 $13.55 Remove from cart
Show product details for XScorpion 10 Gauge Blue / Silver Speaker Wire XScorpion 10 Gauge Blue / Silver Speaker Wire (S10.200PB)
$0.79 $39.50 Remove from cart
Show product details for Scosche EFX MIDI Distribution/Combination Power-Gr Scosche EFX MIDI Distribution/Combination Power-Gr (DBLOCK)
$42.70 $42.70 Remove from cart
Show product details for Stinger 150 Amp ANL Gold Finish Fuse Stinger 150 Amp ANL Gold Finish Fuse (SPF82150)
$6.02 $6.02 Remove from cart
Show product details for XScorpion Gold Ring Battery Terminal XScorpion Gold Ring Battery Terminal (BTRG)
$10.50 $21.00 Remove from cart
HP = FUN
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I would use the 200 close to the batt. I myself use no fuse distro at the amps, i use an unfused distro block by stinger for 2-0gauge in then it splits in 4-4Ga out.... just the way i've always run my stuff. 80 amps is cutting it close for the 1200.1 as it has 3-40 amp fuses plugged into it and i think 30 amps is too small for the 300.4, if you go too small you may be popin fuses when you get the volume up and they start to consume more amps from your alt. you should match the amperage of the fuses in the amps with the fuses in your distro.smokeyand thebandit wrote:1/0 gauge came with a 200 amp anl fuse but i was going to run a 150 instead. then get a fused distribution block with 80 amps to the 1200.1 and 30 amp fuses to the 300/4. I can still order 120 amp fuses and keep 1/0 at 200 amps.
screw car audio, I'd rather go fast....errr, wait a minute.
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do you run your grounds seperatly?Stryker wrote:I would use the 200 close to the batt. I myself use no fuse distro at the amps, i use an unfused distro block by stinger for 2-0gauge in then it splits in 4-4Ga out.... just the way i've always run my stuff. 80 amps is cutting it close for the 1200.1 as it has 3-40 amp fuses plugged into it and i think 30 amps is too small for the 300.4, if you go too small you may be popin fuses when you get the volume up and they start to consume more amps from your alt. you should match the amperage of the fuses in the amps with the fuses in your distro.smokeyand thebandit wrote:1/0 gauge came with a 200 amp anl fuse but i was going to run a 150 instead. then get a fused distribution block with 80 amps to the 1200.1 and 30 amp fuses to the 300/4. I can still order 120 amp fuses and keep 1/0 at 200 amps.
HP = FUN
go and see what they have. I'm not too sure they have all that much. the US stores carry more CA stuff and up here. Also I would run an Optima group 31 if it fits or the smaller 34 with side and top posts like ya said. Do the big 3 and you should be okay. Only thing is running that 1200 at 1ohm it's gonna be a power hog. when you have more $ or if you do right now, i would grab a couple of dual 4 ohm 10 or 12" PG RSdC's(very good price on those for what you get), then you can run the 1200 at 2ohm's. It will live alot longer and provide around 1400 rms if you give it a solid 13.8v's and above. Seems like your on the right path. At 1ohm for the 1200 def. use the 200 amp by the battery, maybe even 250.smokeyand thebandit wrote:I do live close to whalley worldI'm in north delta
screw car audio, I'd rather go fast....errr, wait a minute.
yes, I run them the same way with it's own distro block but the same kind.smokeyand thebandit wrote:do you run your grounds seperatly?Stryker wrote:I would use the 200 close to the batt. I myself use no fuse distro at the amps, i use an unfused distro block by stinger for 2-0gauge in then it splits in 4-4Ga out.... just the way i've always run my stuff. 80 amps is cutting it close for the 1200.1 as it has 3-40 amp fuses plugged into it and i think 30 amps is too small for the 300.4, if you go too small you may be popin fuses when you get the volume up and they start to consume more amps from your alt. you should match the amperage of the fuses in the amps with the fuses in your distro.smokeyand thebandit wrote:1/0 gauge came with a 200 amp anl fuse but i was going to run a 150 instead. then get a fused distribution block with 80 amps to the 1200.1 and 30 amp fuses to the 300/4. I can still order 120 amp fuses and keep 1/0 at 200 amps.
screw car audio, I'd rather go fast....errr, wait a minute.
oh ok, but i always thought you ran the fuse size for the amount of amperage the wire was capable of holding before it caught fire. something like that.gridracer wrote:do not use 200 or 250 amp fuse at battery that is too high read my last post
screw car audio, I'd rather go fast....errr, wait a minute.
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Gotta work with what ya have. You can still have great sound if you havegood mids and tweets. Bass is great but not the end all be all. especially when you have limited space to install a box(s) DD makes some really badass 8's as do some other company's.
screw car audio, I'd rather go fast....errr, wait a minute.
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